RMR-32 rebuild - Guidance needed

[john7 162]

So I started to do just a little touch up painting on my RMR-32 deck to get ready for mowing season and it just snowballed from there.

 

I messed up my touch up by wet sanding it down to early, so that led to a "well I'll just take it completely apart and repaint everything". This is where the fun begins. Taking it apart revealed multiple issues:

 

1) Idler pulley bronze bearing is shot.

2) All 4 spindle bearings are shot.

3) Both cross shaft bearings are shot.

4) Cross shaft is bent.

 

Here are these issues and the help that I need in greater detail:

 

1) The Idler Pulley Bronze Bearing:

I mic'd it at 5/8" x 7/8" x 1". This is based on the OD and the length of the Idler bolt (part #1049), and the OD of the exposed portion of the bronze bearing in the idler pulley. Idler pulley (part #1602).

 

2 Questions: 

          1) What is the actual size for the bronze bearing? 

          2) Can this bearing even be replaced? It is in a peculiar place and appears to be held in 2 spots, one spot on either side of the pulley. I can't see inside until I cut the bearing out so it's hard to tell whether or not the is a tube of sort that makes contact with the bearing throughout the pulley, like the axle tube bearings. And it seams like this would, or could be a royal pain to set the new bearing if it only has two points of contact. 

 

2) 4 Spindle Bearings:

Wheel Horse part #1515. I ordered the Toro replacement. Part # 230-045.

Well, I order NICE 1630 DCTNTG18's (3/4" IDx 1-5/8"OD x 1/2"W. The Toro replacement is a sealed bearing on both sides, so that's what I got. However, the originals that were in the deck were metal shielded on both sides. This got me thinking. The idea of the shielded bearing is to allow for grease to make it's way from my grease gun, through the zerk, onto the gears, through the bearings, and then eventually on the ground.

 

My Question:

Is it a bad idea to have gotten the sealed bearings for the spindles?  Or will the sealed be fine fore weekly operation?

 

3) The Cross Shaft Bearings Are Shot:

I was planning on replacing these with the same sealed NICE bearings. The question is the same as the spindle bearings. The originals were also shielded, so is it okay to replace with the sealed bearings?

 

4) Bent Cross Shaft (Part #3139):

The bend is extremely miniscule; hardly noticeable at operating speed. I knew this years ago but ignored it. I've now figured out that this is why the cross shaft bearings are bad. Also, since the bearings are harder than the steel cross shaft, the bearings wallard out the cross shaft and they no longer seat properly on the cross shaft. Well, it's ground it down so much that the can't seat at all. Not to mention it's wearing the gears out too.

 

My Questions:

Is there someone here that has a good one that I can purchase? Or can anyone make one up for me? I've emailed Lowell Scholljegerdes but haven't heard back. He's made several parts for me over the years.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

 

 

[squonk 41,170]

Take a good look at the aluminum stanchions for the cross bearings. When the bearings go bad, they like to spin in the housings. They need to be staked in.

[john7 162]

26 minutes ago, squonk said:

Squonk, I never thought of that. But when I knocked the bearings out of them they were seated very well. I think I'm in the clear on that. But just for the knowledge, lets say this had happened, what would I need to do to "stake" them in?

 

[squonk 41,170]

Pin punch into the housing to "squish the metal onto the outer race.

[john7 162]

Gotcha. Any thoughts on the bronze bearing on the idler pulley?

[squonk 41,170]

Idler pulley looks like a common pulley .Replace the whole thing.

[john7 162]

I have no doubt that I can find something that will work.  The RJ and the deck were bought new by my grandfather so I'm committed to keeping things as original as possible... that is, if I can anyways.

[Lee1977 6,680]

1 hour ago, john7 said:

I have no doubt that I can find something that will work.  The RJ and the deck were bought new by my grandfather so I'm committed to keeping things as original as possible... that is, if I can anyways.

Some idlers can be taken apart by drilling out the spot welds and some can't if it had a sealed bearing it can be fixed. The flat idlers are usually easer as they are not welded together in the grove. I suggest to take a small bit

and drill a reference hole between the spot welds before drilling out the spot welds. The idler bearings I have replaced are 1623-2RS 1 3/8 OD  5/8" ID and 7/16" thick there is usually a spacer pressed in the iD bushed down to 3/8".

I bolt mine back together.

 

 

upload images

 

These are a couple of mule drive idlers.

 

Edited March 10, 2021 by Lee1977

[john7 162]

Thanks for the pointers. If only mine was a radial and not a bronze bearing. I tried to upload a close up but ran out of MB's. 

 

I like your idea. Mine is spot welded like yours as well. This has me thinking. If I split the two halves it may be easier to press the bronze bearing in from the inside of both halves, one at a time. 

 

Here's a close-up. Any ideas?

Edited March 10, 2021 by john7

[gt14rider 765]

Added a couple of set screws in aluminum housing to keep bearing tight, 

[john7 162]

This is a killer idea. I didn't notice any issues with my bearings slipping in the aluminum housings at all. In fact, they were set very well; not too loose and not too tight.

 

Is your deck one of the newer RMR-32's or something else? I notice that you have a zerk on top of your spindle for your bearings. I only have a zerk on top of the housing itself, nothing inside. I went ahead and got sealed bearings mostly for this reason.

 

On a different note, what kind of grease are you using for your gears? 

[gt14rider 765]

My deck is a RM- 366. Run it on a 856. The grease is high temp bearing grease