The 876 project

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Just now, Gregor said:

I could not find a description of it

 

Nor could I.  All the part sites list it as 'not available' or 'obsolete' with no description whatsoever.

 

I'm sure that it's nothing special though.  Probably just an 8-32 flat washer.

 

Unless it's one of those 'stepped' flat washers.

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

No one said not to add more oil to the trans, so I did. Another whole quart. It is on the dip stick now, but not up to the full mark. The book says 4 quarts. Maybe it's 5 with filter change, IDK. Guess I will leave it there for now, since 5 is all I bought.

[pfrederi 17,741]

OK First there is a big difference in the motion control between the early wheelamatic (875 1075 etc) and later Charger Electro  hydro gears.  The two little springs are the only friction adjustment on 875.  That is why they do not have the washers.  Those two spring press the plastic slider against the housing with hopefully enough resistance to keep the motion control where you set it.  In reality it doesn't, plus the friction wears out the slider. So WH changed in later hydro gears and used a big cross shaft spring and cone set up to provide resistance and hold the lever where you set it.  The washers were added as no longer did you need or want friction (and enhanced wear) on the slider.

 

Second fill it to the dipstick .  Better over than under filled.

Edited March 16, 2021 by pfrederi

[Gregor 4,846]

Looking over the book, I discovered my tractor does not have this link. Pat # 6133, superseded to 703291. Maybe somewhere in it's life, someone decided it was not necessary.  No longer available of course, and no pic. Could someone give me the dimensions and specs? Doesn't look like is has to be to perfect, for what it does, But I would still like to have one.

 

[Gregor 4,846]

I added another 20 oz. of oil. Just barely over full. I'll have to see wht happens to the oil level when this thing gets back together and running.

 

The hitch on the rear, that is lifted by the cable is securely stuck, in the up position. Just like the one on my 656 was. Took a loooong time to get that freed up. Every once in a while I give it a whack,  or try to push it down with my big crowbar. Am I wasting my time and Maap gas trying to heat it up with a propane torch? Is that going to get it hot enough to make a difference? On the 656 I drilled and tapped and inserted a grease zerk on each side. Don't know ifthat helped, but at least I was doing something. Any secrets to this? Anyone ever broke one? 

[Gregor 4,846]

I have never had any tractor tore down this far before, and to be honest, I hadn't planned on taking this one that far either. After doing some de-crudding yesterday, I found something ugly. This maybe be a common, I don't know, but it has to be fixed. I have a feeling this tractor may have been used and a little abused, but it will be fixed. Can't see it well in this pic, but it's cracked on both sides at the bottom.

 

Apparently someone did some chicken scratching on it at some point in it's life

 

 

A little more cleaning, and off to the weld shop. I am thinking of adding a 1/8" steel plate to the back side, between the frame and the trans, for reinforcement. I'm just not sure of the ramifications of doing this. I don't believe the belt, or brake lever will be a problem. The only issue I can think of, is the space between the shift cam plate, and the little stud/ball that controls it. Maybe a washer or 2 on the stud will take care of that.

 

Can anyone think of any other problem doing this might cause?

 

I hope I took enough pics to put this thing back together. I may have to buy another 876 as a template.

[pfrederi 17,741]

Very common failure.  All the repairs reinforcements were done on the front side.  There are several versions of repair documented here.  daveoman had a nice one no welding required...

[Gregor 4,846]

I have read a couple of horror stories about removing the hubs from the rear axle. Mine tapped off relatively easy. I guess I can thank years of leaky axle seals for that. I would like to replace the seals, but I don't know the outside diameter. The Ponds neglected to tell me that. I don't see a # on them either. NLA part number from suppliers.
Anyone have an SKF or National # ?  Thanks Greg

 

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Very common failure.  All the repairs reinforcements were done on the front side.  There are several versions of repair documented here.  daveoman had a nice one no welding required...

Already off to the weld shop. I would like to see those repairs though.

 

I did watch a video by PakRatsFabrication. Maybe it would be better to have the reinforcing in front.

[pfrederi 17,741]

 

[Pullstart 62,912]

SKF 9815 for the 1” seal 

[Gregor 4,846]

9 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

Those were some great looking repairs, and some really good ideas. If this tractor were going to be heavily used, I would beef it up more. If and when it gets back together, it will probably come out of the shed 2 - 3 times a year at most.  Thank You for the link.

[Gregor 4,846]

I got that back sooner than expected. I decided to go ahead and have the plate welded to the rear. I may live to regret that, time will tell.

 

I have been soaking the trans with every kind of cleaner I have.If someone would be so kind as to come and load this in my truck, I would take it to the car wash. I sure as he!! can't do it.

 

This got me curious about my C-141, and the 656. I was a little afraid to look. They were fine.

 

Side note;  The corned beef has been in the crock pot all day. I sense more Kahlua in my future.

Edited March 17, 2021 by Gregor

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

22 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I may live to regret that,

 

I hope it doesn't change the 'geometry', moving the tranny back the thickness of the added plate, such that other parts don't fit quite right...

 

Is there not a 'dipstick' on the older machines?  Looks like a square plug in the dipstick tube. Is that threaded?  Is there a dipstick attached to that plug?

 

    

 

When I got my machine the plastic tube was cracked.  I discovered that the threads in the tranny were the same as 1/2" copper threaded plumbing fittings.  I took a 1/2" copper sweat threaded adapter, soldered on a section of 1/2" copper pipe, and soldered a 1/2" copper coupling on the top.  The dipstick fits nice and snug into the coupling, thus replacing the plastic with metal.

Edited March 17, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Gregor 4,846]

Mine has a dipstick. No plastic tube anywhere.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Just now, Gregor said:

Mine has a dipstick. No plastic tube anywhere.

 

Thanks!  By 1980 they obviously 'cheaped out' and started using a plastic tube.  The dipstick on mine is your standard 'hook to pull out with your finger and an O-ring seal'.

 

[Gregor 4,846]

The shifting mechanism on the 876 was pretty sloppy. This rod was worn in several places. I scuffed it up with a file, filled the areas with JB Weld, and filed smooth,

The holes in te shift arm were also quite worn, so it wasn't much of a stretch to drill them to 5/8" and install some bronze bearings.

Pretty snug fit now. The bronze bearing fit very snug, but I may add a little JB Weld, just to keep them there.

These holes are also sloppy. Plastic bushings are pretty much shot. They may get the same treatment.

Edited March 17, 2021 by Gregor

[Gregor 4,846]

I temporarily mocked up this much of the 876. I wanted to see what the consequences were adding the 1/8" to the back side of the

frame. I don't think there will be a problem.  I believe the belt will be long enough, and there is enough play area in the neutral cam plate, to allow for the change. I JB Welded my cam plate back together for now. I have a new one ordered

I also added the bronze flanged bearings to the outside tins.(green circle) They were a hammer in fit, so I think they will stay. There is virtually no play or slop in the shift mechanism anymore. Not sure what will happen to them when the piece goes for chemical paint strip, may have to replace them.No more rubbing here, plenty of clearance.The pin for the cam block (black circle) is actually from one of my tie rod ends. (yeah, I'm gonna need new tie rods) The pins were identical except this pin had a little longer stud/threads, allowing me to add a couple of washers.

 

 

Hard to see in the above pic, but the 2 white washers on the cam tension plates, are from screws used to fasten steel to a building. They have a small rubber washer affixed to them. I will eliminate the springs, unless someone tells me otherwise.

I think the PO had the cam tension plates (yellow circle) on backwards. I see no purpose in having the flare to the outside. I switched them. If this is wrong, again, let me know.

At the very bottom of the triangle shape is a hole on each side. The hole on the other side was broke out. The weld shop fixed it, but not great. Can someone tell me what it's for? Do I need to re-enforce ot more?  Thanks  Greg

[pfrederi 17,741]

The motion control friction on the early hydros was not good. How easily does your motion control lever move?  If it moves easily you will have to hold on to the control all the time.  Some of rigged up an external setup holding a piece of rubber against the handle to give some additional resistance.

[Gregor 4,846]

I can tighten those rubbered washers up to the point where it moves very stiff. But I'm not sure if that would be good for the cam. If it were machined of aluminum, I might trust it more. It's not like this tractor is going to be used for mowing though, or anything more than a ride around my yard.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I think the PO had the cam tension plates (yellow circle) on backwards. I see no purpose in having the flare to the outside. I switched them. If this is wrong, again, let me know.

 

I don't think it's wrong...  but your plates are sorta knackered.  As I recall, the last time I looked at mine, one side the tabs are UP, the other side they are DOWN.  Looks like yours may be bent flat on one side.

 

The tabs should be bent AWAY from the plastic piece and this puts the tabs on the other side pointing in and probably intended to prevent the plate from twisting on it's mount.

 

[Gregor 4,846]

After looking at the book, it seems you are right. The tabs are bent significantly in opposite directions. Mine were flat on on side. I adjusted them accordingly, and they didn't break!

 

Thanks

[Gregor 4,846]

On 3/17/2021 at 1:39 PM, pullstart said:

SKF 9815 for the 1” seal 

I dunno @pullstart These 9815 seals aint lookin' quite right.

[Pullstart 62,912]

11 hours ago, Gregor said:

I dunno @pullstart These 9815 seals aint lookin' quite right.

Is there a certain dimension that doesn’t work for you?

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

I don't think 1.250 OD is gonna work.

That makes for an 1/8" case around the seal.

From the rough measurement I can get, without removing the seal, I think it may be closer to 1.50"

[Gregor 4,846]

1" shaft, 1.50" OD, .307" thick. These 9815 seals look like the seals for my Lawn Boy rider, so they won't go to waste. I can order from McMaster Carr, and order a 3' length of threaded rod, so I get another one of those handy-dandy cardboard tubes they come in. No harm no foul.