The 876 project

[Gregor 4,846]

I am not ready to start on the tractor I got yesterday, but I know there are a few parts I am going to need, So, here I am again asking for a parts diagram. I know it's probably here some place, and if I were better with computers, and downloads, and PDF files and such, I could find it myself. But I'm not. Could someone please post a link to parts, owner/operator manuals, wiring diagrams, and whatever else might be out there?  Thanks  Greg\

 

EDIT  I think I found it

Edited March 9, 2021 by Gregor

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

This is what comes up on a 876 search. The results are on 2 pages and in no particular order so look through them all.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=876&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

[Gregor 4,846]

So I was sitting here looking at my 876. I haven't done anything to it yet, except give a look over, and vacuum out the mouse nest. I decided to hook up a battery, just for kicks. Turn the key, and it turns over. Ever so s l o w l y , but it does turn. I'll take that as a good sign

[Pullstart 62,912]

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

Thanks. Now where's my wrenches?

 

Mine spins when the battery is connected to A side. Connecting to the field side has little if any effect on the braking. Maybe just  good cleaning?

 

 

Disassembled the starter. Gave everything a good shot of contact cleaner. Cleaned it up the best I could. Polished the commutator with 1000 grit. One of the small screws holding the brush wire was a tad loose. Another good soaking with contact cleaner. Put it back together and applied voltage. It's much better now, both at spinning and at braking. Is it perfect? Will it work? Won't know until I actually put it to the test on this tractor. That's a long way off.

Edited March 13, 2021 by Gregor

[Gregor 4,846]

When I got my C-141, it was a running, moving , tractor. The valve on the trans for free-wheeling is stuck. I have never been able to open it. Consequently, when not running, it's a bear to push around this garage. It does not roll easily. On the other hand, the 876 I just got, rolls very easy. Then again, I have no idea how many years it has sat. I can move the valve on this tractor, but open or closed, 

it rolls easily. I checked the dipstick on the trans, it showed nothing. I removed the plug directly under the dipstick, and drained close to 2 1/2 quarts of trans fluid. It looked clean, red, and did not smell burnt. I see the book calls for 4 quarts of Type A trans fluid. I'm a little afraid that I will rebuild the motor, stick it on here, and the tranny is bad. Is there anyway to checkout the drive, without a running motor on it?

Thanks  Greg

[Pullstart 62,912]

You could chuck up a small drive belt on a 1/2” drill and spin it (backwards) to see how it’ll operate.  By hand, you could even move the hubs with the input pulley, but you will need to put a load on it once it’s warm to really test it’s strength.

[Gregor 4,846]

I think I am going to put my K 181, or my predator on it for now. See what happens.  Thanks

 

Maybe even the Military motor. Just for kicks.

Edited March 15, 2021 by Gregor

[Gregor 4,846]

Another question. On this transmission, starboard side, down low, there is a canister looking device. I have looked at the manuals, and through my book, but can't find an answer. Is this a filter, or another part of the trans?

[pfrederi 17,741]

Is it the hydro filter?

 

Just below the fan in this picture. 

 

Free rolling tow valve closed is not a good thing.  Hope it was just too low on fluid.

 

Wix 51410

 

[Gregor 4,846]

Thanks I took it off hoping I would not regret it. Guess I don't ever remember seeing a cartridge filter with a Hex on top for a wrench before. I have been trying to clean it up to get the #, but to no avail. Thank You for the #

[Gregor 4,846]

23 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Free rolling tow valve closed is not a good thing.  Hope it was just too low on fluid.

Well, it was 1 1/2 quarts low on fluid.

[Pullstart 62,912]

1 minute ago, Gregor said:

Well, it was 1 1/2 quarts low on fluid.

Hopefully topping it off does the trick!

[Pullstart 62,912]

26 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Is it the hydro filter?

 

Just below the fan in this picture. 

 

Free rolling tow valve closed is not a good thing.  Hope it was just too low on fluid.

 

Wix 51410

 

Let’s talk cooling.  Should that fan have a shroud?  Does it not get that hot if it’s kept clean?  Does it still blow air across the pump regardless?

[Gregor 4,846]

I didn't want to start on this yet, as I have a project from last fall I need to finish, but the weather is suppose to be rotten all week, soooooo.

 

It's amazing once you get a rattle gun in your hands, just how fast you can turn a complete tractor into a pile of parts. Another one of those impossible to remove steering wheels. Removed the roll pin, it came right off. Score one for me.The shift linkage looks like it needs some serious attention.I don't imagine that screw is suppose to be rubbing on that lever. The spring on it is compressed as far as it can be. Maybe it's the wrong spring, screw, or both. Don't know. I left things in tact enough to test the trans, once I get a filter and fluid.

This is what my tractor has (had) for a fan shroud.

I would like to take it outside for a power washing. Right now it's about 32F, windy, sleet, and miserable, so that's not gonna happen.

 

I hate it when you smash your finger first thing in the morning. It's sore and tender all day, and you just don't want to touch anything !

[squonk 41,155]

Fan shroud/screen hanging loose on my 1075

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Shrouds...We don't need no stinking shrouds!!

[Gregor 4,846]

After a couple of honey-do jobs, and running after supplies, I got the Predator temporarily mounted on the 876. Replaced trans filter, and filled with new fluid. 4 qts. as per book. Put the back end on jack stands.  Made my self a hand held belt tensioner, which you will probably not find in Osha's book of approved tools and gadgets, but it worked.  Started the motor. The wheels go forward and backward. Now, with the motor off, if you try to roll the wheels in the same direction, they do not move easily. I don't know how it will do under a real load, but I am taking all this as a good sign, and proceeding as if the trans is ok. If it's not, I will worry about that at a later date. The oil still does not register on the dipstick. Should I add more?

I don't know when or how I did this, but I broke the cam. Had to shift it with a screwdriver, so I just took all that stuff off, out of my way. I will have to order a new cam.

 

 There was only one spring on the cam tension plates. It looks like someone cut down a spring and ground on it, to make it fit. I will have to figure out what it is suppose to be, and make some, or order some. So far I have not found a source for these.I have a lot of parts and pieces to take either to the media blaster, or the acid dipper. Anyone have a preference on blasting over dipping? Or vice versa? Very little deep rust, so I am not afraid of the dipping eating anything away..  Thanks  Greg

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

There was only one spring on the cam tension plates.

 

I don't think there should be ANY springs there.

 

[edit: nope... wrong.  The manual for your machine DOES show springs on there.  Interesting that the 1980 that I have does NOT have springs.  Wonder why they changed?]

 

There should be a On my 175 there is a 'special washer' between the hold down and the housing to give the space for the cam actuator, then the screws should be 8-32 with a lock washer.  Parts book says 1/2" long.

 

Looks to me like someone lost the original screws, didn't have one short enough, didn't own a screw cutter, and used that spring as a 'spacer', same with the nut under the head of the other screw.

 

The brackets appear to be all outta shape and bent up too.

 

Edited March 15, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Gregor 4,846]

IDK  I'm just going by the pictures

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

8 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I'm just going by the pictures

 

I first grabbed the hard copy manual for my 1980 C175 and there are no springs.  It shows the screw, a lock washer, the bracket #44 in your diagram, the 'special washer' #9 I mentioned, then that sandwiches the cam actuator plate.

 

 

They changed it... don't know why...  maybe the springs squashing the edge of the actuator wore it out too fast?

 

Edited March 15, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Gregor 4,846]

Maybe I don't need no stinkin' spring!

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Just now, Gregor said:

Maybe I don't need no stinkin' spring!

 

 

Maybe not!  but you would need the 'special washer', which I am presuming is just a tad thicker than the flange of the actuator plate.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I don't know when or how I did this

 

I don't think you did it.  Probably that way when you got it.

 

[Gregor 4,846]

6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I don't think you did it.  Probably that way when you got it.

 

I wish I could say it was, but it wasn't.

 

I just looked at your diagram on line. Maybe all I need is a fiber, or cupped washer. I could not find a description of it