Shed 248 #26 Posted March 8, 2021 Same time when I'm running my electricity to the building I'm running generator line 17k be able to run most of everything important Stove is central boiler cl5648 2004 385 gallon So do I not do radiant if I run the risk of out btuing my house heat and just buy another modine heater and turn the heat when I'm in there? Still may run foam board under slab Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #27 Posted March 8, 2021 26 minutes ago, pullstart said: Another term to look up is reverse return. It’ll allow you to not run valving control and have even flow through the manifold, no matter then length of the loop. This is common when two different sized water heaters are in one system, but are desired to run equal loads... or even the same sized water heaters. If your inlet runs straight to the first circuit in the manifold, but out of the last and in order throughout the rest, it’ll balance flow just with the tees as designed. I guess how the mixing valve works is on the return side of manifold it goes to one side and how side goes into other and then one feed line into the manifold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,801 #28 Posted March 8, 2021 Maybe build the system with the option to add a mixing valve, but I believe this method will nix the need for another part that could fail? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #29 Posted March 8, 2021 Just got price quate back from diy company 3000 bucks for a two zone 3 loop system from heat exchanger to pex that's really pushing budget for the few times I'm in the garage during winter. That's not including 1000 for foam board or line from stove and another pump I'd be almost 4500 to 5000 if I went to radiant. Or do I just buy another modine and have two modine heaters the other thing is like someone said I will need to run an antifreeze in the system or leave it run 24/7 or run the stove water 24/7 to heat exchanger and then run antifreeze in the modines to many choices never enough money. Leave no room to finish my 1960 suburban which is why we all are here to start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,038 #30 Posted March 8, 2021 At least put the loops in the concrete. You can always utilize them in the future. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,674 #31 Posted March 8, 2021 My shop is 30x84 lined with 1/2 foam board. it has an oil fired unit hanging from the ceiling at one end. I had an addition put on several years ago I should have put pex in then as i have a 15X22 area walled off and well insulated. I leave an electric base board on all the time to keep it about 50. Have another electric space heater i turn on when working. If I have to work in the big space I used to turn on the overhead but it is on its last legs (over 30years old i would guess, and has some rust issues). It made it nice an warm up high (13' ceilings) not much down where I am. I bought a 175,000BTU salamander I fire up if there is a must do project on something to big to bring in to the heated portion... It works but is noisy as heck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #32 Posted March 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, pfrederi said: My shop is 30x84 lined with 1/2 foam board. it has an oil fired unit hanging from the ceiling at one end. I had an addition put on several years ago I should have put pex in then as i have a 15X22 area walled off and well insulated. I leave an electric base board on all the time to keep it about 50. Have another electric space heater i turn on when working. If I have to work in the big space I used to turn on the overhead but it is on its last legs (over 30years old i would guess, and has some rust issues). It made it nice an warm up high (13' ceilings) not much down where I am. I bought a 175,000BTU salamander I fire up if there is a must do project on something to big to bring in to the heated portion... It works but is noisy as heck. So you say put the pex in at least for now...? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #33 Posted March 8, 2021 I'd seriously consider running the pex loops for at least the BTUs you have. It's a now or never deal. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,038 #34 Posted March 8, 2021 Again if it were me, install the pex. If you decide later that the Modine is not enough, then add the heat system to the floor. I don't know how old and what kind of shape your boiler is in but in a few years if it's getting tired you could put in a bigger unit to handle the extra load of the shop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,871 #35 Posted March 8, 2021 Just so many variables. I know my building gets the sun all day and I am not in it at night, so I can turn it down. It is well insulated and no windows. Sounds like the floor heating cost is out of control. It just might be best to put the any extra cash into insulation. Can't go wrong there. Put enough insulation in and heat it with a candle! When I was a kid my Dad had an old garage with zero heat. i told him one day we need some heat down there.....He said, "the heat is in the tools"! I'm over that now. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,991 #36 Posted March 8, 2021 7 hours ago, johnnymag3 said: Its a water heater....not a hot water heater !!! PULLSTART …..Got to keep those boys in line, why would you heat hot water??? When you heat hot water, you get steam! My building project will be in Kentucky. A little more heat available there to pump around than in Maime. I'm also planning on having a wood stove as well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,801 #37 Posted March 8, 2021 50 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: When you heat hot water, you get steam! My building project will be in Kentucky. A little more heat available there to pump around than in Maime. I'm also planning on having a wood stove as well. Hey, then it would classify as a boiler, wouldn’t it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,801 #38 Posted March 8, 2021 5 hours ago, Shed said: Just got price quate back from diy company 3000 bucks for a two zone 3 loop system from heat exchanger to pex that's really pushing budget for the few times I'm in the garage during winter. That's not including 1000 for foam board or line from stove and another pump I'd be almost 4500 to 5000 if I went to radiant. Or do I just buy another modine and have two modine heaters the other thing is like someone said I will need to run an antifreeze in the system or leave it run 24/7 or run the stove water 24/7 to heat exchanger and then run antifreeze in the modines to many choices never enough money. Leave no room to finish my 1960 suburban which is why we all are here to start Can you do any of the work yourself? We did it in my In-law’s barndominium project last year. It works great! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #39 Posted March 8, 2021 That's a big barn yes all work myself 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #40 Posted March 13, 2021 Well I'm signing for a 30x32 12 tall 10 tall 16 wide building with Lancaster pole buildings Friday using green posts. Having them frame out a ledger board on the 32 foot side so I hang hang a lean too 15 foot over hang maybe next year. But we decided not to do radiant just two big hanging heaters. With going to spray foam it will be well insolated and almost zero drafts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #41 Posted March 19, 2021 So we signed for the building today. Opt out of radiant because they wont pour floor with out pump truck for radiant they had to many bite them back because of the pex being broken from walking. But did have the ledger board put for planned expansion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites