Vurge 158 #1 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) So I finally started working on the C-121 I bought last summer. It had been leaking oil out one axle shaft and the brake drum shaft. Put in new seals, refilled the oil.... And THEN noticed it wouldn't shift out of Hi. The lever moves back and forth and I can see the actual shaft going into the transmission moving. Something is forcing it upwards when moving the lever to the left. High gears seem to work fine. Questions: 1. Can I just drive it in high gear indefinitely or will that cause further damage? 2. Assuming that it needs a replacement shift fork, how big of a project is it? 3 hours? 6 hours? I've have pretty much zero experience working on transmissions. 3. Has anyone ever shipped a 8 speed transmission? Any insight would be helpful in case I come across one. Being in California I don't have many options! Edited March 7, 2021 by Vurge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,290 #2 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) Probably yes, except if there is a something broken off. like the shifter fork. I take out trannys, put new bearings and seals in and mount it back under the tractor in a good afternoon +/- 7-8 hours. shouldn't be scared about opening the tranny. If you do, you get the chance to clean her out real good, and inspect everything. Like the state of the gears or busted bearings which i didn't know before opening mine. @stevasaurus has good video's about trannys. just take pics during the progress so you know how to get her back together just in case you get stuck. Next week i will be opening my third one in a good month. 2/3 tractor i have had bearing failure. so i am opening them all, to clean and inspect. from europe srry ( rather fix it then replacing it in my eyes) Edited March 7, 2021 by Maxwell-8 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #3 Posted March 7, 2021 Hi Vurge Yes you can drive your horse in high range forever as long as you don't keep trying to put it into low. If it is a bent fork, and it probably is,. you could break it off and have that piece loose in the transmission. It depends on if your hubs, pulley, break drum and rear hitch come of easy. Hubs and hitches can take days or minutes to come off. I could do one in a day, counting cleaning the gears and inside of case, but figure about 2 days to repair the transmission. The shift fork mechanism is available from TORO for around $55. Shipping a transmission is around $75 if you use Fastenal. I have shipped a few with them. Someone has to take it to them, and then you pick it up from them and pay them then. Here is a thread with videos of what your transmission looks like inside and how to put it together...including the hi/low shift fork. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,457 #4 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) 26 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: you use Fastenal Was on the Fastenal website last week and they've suspended their shipping between the East and West zones, FYI (the divide is roughly along the western edge of the Great Plains). Edited March 7, 2021 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,321 #5 Posted March 7, 2021 32 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Was on the Fastenal website last week and they've suspended their shipping between the East and West zones, FYI (the divide is roughly along the western edge of the Great Plains). Not surprised. My local Fastenal is practically worthless. A pile of stuffed Bongo Monkeys could do a better job. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #6 Posted March 7, 2021 Thanks for the input everyone. I'm actually planning on trying to fix this transmission. It's a matter of figuring out how much time and space I need to set aside. Weekend vs a month... I can't devote long blocks of time to this so is more like a month long project for me. Of all the similar threads here, I haven't found anyone (so far) who just gave up! That must be a good sign. 😂 The shipping question is in case I don't succeed and/or to have a spare while this is out of service. On a side note, the K301 seems to be running good after an oil change and carburetor adjustment. It'll idle and throttle up smoothly now. I know it's a simple thing for you *older* folks, but I'm still figuring this out. I just learned yesterday that these older machines won't run without a good battery! Died as soon as I removed the jumper cables. Google saved the day before I started taking things apart! 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,290 #7 Posted March 7, 2021 10 minutes ago, Vurge said: I know it's a simple thing for you *older* folks, but I'm still figuring this out. My friend, i am 19 years old, and own Wheelhorses for just over 3 months. and have only worked on 3 trannys. 11 minutes ago, Vurge said: I haven't found anyone (so far) who just gave up! That must be a good sign. 😂 WH transmissions are strong and simple, i don't give up on them, as they are getting rarer and more expensive here and trannys found in new mowers are just not doing it for me. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,850 #8 Posted March 8, 2021 Any bearings and seals you need are available from one of our Vendors, Wheel Horse Parts and more. As mentioned removing wheel hubs, brake drums, drive pulleys and hitch pins can be easy or test your wits. The are a right of passage in the Wheel horse world. A word of caution, don't use a 3 jawed puller or similar on the hub or pulley flanges. They are too thin to be pulled directly on. Search for "Hub Puller" and several good ideas will come up. Lots of friendly help here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #9 Posted March 8, 2021 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Any bearings and seals you need are available from one of our Vendors, Wheel Horse Parts and more. As mentioned removing wheel hubs, brake drums, drive pulleys and hitch pins can be easy or test your wits. The are a right of passage in the Wheel horse world. A word of caution, don't use a 3 jawed puller or similar on the hub or pulley flanges. They are too thin to be pulled directly on. Search for "Hub Puller" and several good ideas will come up. Lots of friendly help here. Unfortunately I already pulled off the input pulley with the 3 jaw puller. Didn't even notice I was bending the pulley until it was off. Good news is that I was able to tweak it back into good shape with a hammer. 😁 The stupid thing was that it wasn't even necessary. I was intending to take off the brake rotor and just had a brain fart. Oh, and this tractor came to me without a hitch pin... So I guess in terms of stripping it, I've really only got one wheel hub that's an unknown. Everything I've taken off I've brushed with anti-sieze before reassembly. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #10 Posted March 8, 2021 Remember to take good pictures. If you do run into a snag, we can look at a picture and usually see the problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites