pfrederi 17,741 #26 Posted March 7, 2021 I thought that number HEP0-02A sounded familiar. i bought 2 several years ago. Put one in My c-141 it failed after only a few hours and it did it several hundred feet t from the shop. (She has a front mount mower so is a bear to tow). I never installed the second one .. tossed it in the trash. Facet Posiflo made in USA you can get lower pressure if you want. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #27 Posted March 7, 2021 Went to the shed to get the 141. Would not start, of course. Pulled the fuel line off the inlet side, laid it down, rand some fuel out on to the floor. hooked it back up. Nope, won't start. Pulled the fuel line off the outlet side. Cranked it over, nothing. I tried starting fluid and got exactly what I thought I would FIRE! I hate that stuff. Now there is fuel on the floor. This can't be good. I grabbed my electric pump, some wire and clamps, and temporarily mounted it, hoping to get it to the garage. Started right up. I guess electric is the way to go for me. The mechanical one on it is less than 6 months old. Before I pulled in the garage, I thought it would be a good opportunity for Side Shot Saturday and Sunday. Look There! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #28 Posted March 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, oldlineman said: Not to change the subject but does anyone have the # for the block cover too seal the fuel pump opening in the block. 1989 M 14 Kohler, Thanks Bob 240282 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #29 Posted March 7, 2021 I am using Facet electric also. I like the cube type, either 1-2psi or 1 1/2 to 2 1/2psi. Not going back to mechanical. I also use the clear blue/purple fuel line. Good for 100% ethanol and you can see if you're not getting gas... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,673 #30 Posted March 7, 2021 6 minutes ago, oldlineman said: Not to change the subject but does anyone have the # for the block cover too seal the fuel pump opening in the block. 1989 M 14 Kohler, Thanks Bob I have made them out of an old aluminum door frame and used the same gasket as the pump. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #31 Posted March 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: I have made them out of an old aluminum door frame and used the same gasket as the pump. I've used 1/8" steel. Pretty simple to make... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rlrnot 39 #32 Posted March 7, 2021 As to the hand primer bulbs, do they all use the 1/4" barbs? I see other sizes of barbs are available. Thank you for the info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #33 Posted March 7, 2021 I think all wheel horse fuel line is 1/4". I'd try to get that. But I did use a 5/16" elbow on a fuel pump. Heated the hose with a heat gun and it slipped right on... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #34 Posted March 7, 2021 I have the new electric fuel pump on the tractor. It works great. Except.... My carb bowl is leaking fuel. I'm not surprised.It's an aftermarket China special I put on last year. I have another "special" on hand, but I also have the original Kohler carb that was on it to begin with. I would like to rebuild it.The only thing I don't like is, it's painted red. Carburetors ought not be painted in my mind. Just personal preference. I would like to get rid of the red. Would soaking in paint stripper hurt this carb, or should I just live with the red? I have seen on here I think, that someone sells Kohler parts. Who is it, and would they have a rebuild kit for this carb. I think it's a style 30, but I cannot swear to that. It's a 14HP Kohler, if that helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #35 Posted March 7, 2021 Brake cleaner work well to break down the paint. Use a toothbrush to help it along. I would stay away from paint stripper.. Probably is a #30 carb. Any good rebuild kit works for most Kohler carbs. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #36 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) Did you check the float setting in your new Chicom carb. They can be way off.... Berryman's Carb soak does a good job of paint removal. To me functionality is a heck of a lot more important than carb color. Edited March 7, 2021 by pfrederi 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #37 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) When I rebuild a carb I always soak it in Berrymans cleaner overnight. Sometimes 2 or 3 days. That loosens the paint so compressed air will blow it off. And I always get my kits off the bay. Genuine kohler, about 12 bucks... Edited March 7, 2021 by roadapples 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #38 Posted March 8, 2021 So, here is what I did. I took the China carb off the tractor. Got my other China carb, and original Kohler carb out. My other China carb had 2 gaskets on the bowl. The one from the tractor did not. It was missing what the book calls a "baffle" gasket. I decided to see what I could do with the original carb. I disassembled it to the bare carb body. Cleaned everything up, ran it through my sonic cleaner, then cleaned it with carb cleaner again. I robbed the needle and seat from the China carb, as well as the 2 bowl gaskets. Also the float, bowl nut and gasket. I had to "adjust" the outside diameter of a deep 10mm socket for the seat, but I got it done. Set the float level by the book, and attempted to reassemble the carb. While installing the choke shaft, and butterfly, I twisted off one of the screws. I have done that trying to take one apart, but never while putting one together. Luckily, the choke shaft and butterfly from the China carb fit fine, as did the throttle shaft, so I swapped it also. So now I have the original Kohler carb body, bowl, and the 2 needle adjustment screws. The china needles seemed close, but just a tad different, so I went with the originals. And yes it's still red. I will live with it. Put the carb back on the tractor, along with the air filter back plate. ALL screws were given a dose of Locktite. I have been through the screw sucked into the cylinder before with a Kawasaki motor. Wouldn't wish that on anyone. Cranked it over..........would not start for anything. Fuel pump is running fine. Take off fuel line, no fuel. Then a thought hit me. Turn the fuel back on! Turn the fuel on, starts right up. Let it warm up, adjust the carb a bit, and it seems fine. So I guess in short I paid $60 for a carb kit. Yeah, a bit cashy. I turned the tractor off, and just turned on the key for a minute so the pump would run. I wanted to see what would happen.. No runs, no drips, no errors! I guess now I have a Koh-Chi carb, but so far it seems to work. Now, if someone can tell me how to get these very rusty, stuck, 1" pipe fittings off my exhaust, I could install my new Jim Kemp stack. I have bigger pipe wrenches, but I know things can break that way. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,022 #39 Posted March 8, 2021 Yup. I had a similar experience. Was convinced I had a clogged fuel line once. I started stripping fuel lines off, but found the real problem when I got to the shut off valve - which was CLOSED! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #40 Posted March 8, 2021 A cut off wheel on my small side grinder made pretty short work of those stuck on pipe fittings. Only on by a few threads, but they were very determined threads. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #41 Posted March 9, 2021 I always use antiseiz on all exhaust threads... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #42 Posted March 9, 2021 15 minutes ago, roadapples said: I always use antiseiz on all exhaust threads... God bless you! Please spread the good word! Anti-seize! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,329 #43 Posted March 9, 2021 On 3/7/2021 at 1:50 PM, oldlineman said: Not to change the subject but does anyone have the # for the block cover too seal the fuel pump opening in the block. 1989 M 14 Kohler, Thanks Bob I just cut some 1/8" sheet metal to match the gasket to make my own blank off cover. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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