receiver hitch and clevis combination

[JoeM 7,871]

Something I use on the XI, just a ball I welded to a 3/4" bolt that slips in to the hitch, drilled for a keeper R clip. Note: the rockshaft on the xi is something I put together as a custom setup.  Used a steel rod in place of the cable.

 

The biggest thing I may tow is a 7x10 utility trailer. Anything bigger, I use the FEL or truck.

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by JoeM

[cschannuth 3,816]

Here’s something I use on my ground engaging implement tractor if I need to move a cart or a trailer. I just flip it over depending on whether I’m needing a trailer ball or a pin hitch.  I had ordered these from Lowell for some other projects and never used  them so I put this together. Some much less expensive channel steel would also work just fine.

Edited March 7, 2021 by cschannuth
Clarification

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,297]

@ranger I found them last night on M O M  I do like the set up . May use some of your ideas on a set for the rear of my 416-8.

[squonk 41,039]

22 hours ago, cschannuth said:

 
 

Depending on what you’re going to use your single tractor for, the slot hitch might be just the ticket for you.     

You can run the slot hitch for ground engaging and the regular hitch for towing at the same time. You can also use the clevis hitch and regular hitch together as well.

 

[ranger 1,746]

52 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@ranger I found them last night on M O M  I do like the set up . May use some of your ideas on a set for the rear of my 416-8.

I have considered moving the winch to the front, as our good friend Stormin had mentioned before and running the cable underneath. This would allow the upright channel which carries the winch and the top link to be extended forwards to mount the top link further forward in relation to the lower links mounting points. But I may just fit a couple of double acting hyd cylinders, one either side of the upright, and use them to lift the 3pt by pulling upwards. The other alternative is to fit a different fuel tank and use the vacant space to mount a true 3pt with hydraulics! Or I’ll drag out the Raider 10 and make a complete new system, decisions, decisions! 🤔🤔

[ranger 1,746]

On 3/6/2021 at 3:21 PM, David414 said:

@Lee1977 Thank you for the information. Your pictures really highlight the differences and obstacles to make a clevis hitch work on my tractor. 

And yes I agree a second tractor would be easier, but I am a die hard and want to explore a different option.

 

@DennisThornton@ranger @SylvanLakeWH @953 nut @cschannuth @Handy Don @ebinmaine@WVHillbilly520H

Gents, you have given me good advice in the past , and I am reaching out for your thoughts. I am giving some thought to a different way of keeping my 2" receiving hitch pictured above and using a modified clevis hitch of my design  for using rear implements.

I never used a clevis hitch, so please help me understand this. What I am interested in, is the rear implement mounting pin height of the clevis hitch.

 The clevis hitch has a round tube where a pin is inserted to hold the implement to the hitch, and has two bolts to adjust a plate and put tension on that assembly.

My question concerns the height of that pin from the ground. How far off the ground does the pin need to be?

Is it level with the original WH hitch pin location? 

Does it make a difference if the clevis hitch pin is at the same level as the receiver hitch? 

Is it  advantageous if the pin height can be adjustable from the ground? say 2" to 8" high off the ground?

When using rear implements, how critical is the attachment height of the implement to the tractor hitch? To the ground?

 

@Lee1977 receiver hitch appears to be much stronger, more robust, and distributes the forces of towing rear implements better than that of the WH clevis hitch. Ignoring that the receiver hitch can not raise or lower like the clevis, am I correct in my assumption that the receiver hitch is far superior for mounting rear implements? If so, using the rear hitch is the way to go. I have some thoughts on how to fabricate a lifting mechanism using an actuator or winch that can be used to lower or raise the  mounting attachment (pin and plate) from the receiver hitch, and totally eliminating the WH designed clevis hitch, cabling, rock shaft etc.

Your thoughts?

Thanks! David

 

 

How about something along these lines David. An attachment to fit your receiver hitch which goes up and down like a forklift mast, using box section tubing, one piece sliding inside the other, a small roller top and bottom to take the loading as the weight tries to bend it backwards, a threaded rod / screw and nut from something like a “scissor” jack. This is similar to many auto shop vehicle lifts. Drive this with, maybe a 12v permanent magnet wiper motor and you would have a power lift for quite a small cost. Please excuse my feeble attempt at a sketch.

Doug.

[David414 289]

Doug, Thinking along the similar lines as your sketch, but thinking of using an electric winch that I have. Thanks for the suggestion!