ebinmaine 67,627 #26 Posted March 3, 2021 27 minutes ago, David414 said: This site is a wealth of information. Re-thinking my approach to this. Thanks! If you ain't careful you'll learn something around here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #27 Posted March 3, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: If you ain't careful you'll learn something around here. One must be ever vigilant indeed! When I reach my daily limit I have to pause... Edited March 3, 2021 by DennisThornton 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #28 Posted March 4, 2021 If you ever take notice of the newer rear 3pt scraper blades most are "broke" in the 3 section angles like @Handy Don referred to, the blade we use on the rear of Kioti is made this way, still moves snow and gravel ok. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #29 Posted March 4, 2021 5 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said: If you ever take notice of the newer rear 3pt scraper blades most are "broke" in the 3 section angles like @Handy Don referred to, the blade we use on the rear of Kioti is made this way, still moves snow and gravel ok. Possibly cheaper and quicker to produce a three angle blade from a flat plate than rolling or pressing a curve, (unless you have very heavy equipment to do it!)? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #30 Posted March 4, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, ranger said: Possibly cheaper and quicker to produce a three angle blade from a flat plate than rolling or pressing a curve, (unless you have very heavy equipment to do it!)? Oh I'm sure its cheaper, this process is called "breaking" (from working in the sheet metal industry) where the material is just bent at predetermined angles vs being rolled (like the WH blades) and "brake bent" with to 90° flat. My rear blade I bought for the eMax is rolled and brake bent was a bit more expensive. My father made a small Brinly style blade 40 years ago I still have today it was rolled and brake bent as well. Edited March 4, 2021 by WVHillbilly520H Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racerjohnbf 130 #31 Posted March 4, 2021 Great thread! I hope to eventually build a mid mount grader myself. I know this is not what was asked for, but I thought I would share a link to a thread I found on here from long ago that may help. If nothing else I figure it helps put more info in one place for anyone wanting to build one.... And of course Eric's picture thread.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #32 Posted March 4, 2021 Here are some pics of my homemade digger bucket / blade, I ground halfway through lengthwise and straightened out the curve a bit, then added a spare reel / cylinder mower bottom blade as a “cutting” edge. Instead of using flat plate for the mounting lugs I used some offcuts of channel with extra lugs on top so I have a choice of angle depending on whether I’m digging or grading. The blue piece is the other half of the gas cylinder which I hope to use as basis for a wheel horse mounted blade. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,237 #33 Posted March 4, 2021 Nice fabrication job on that rear grader, but you need to have words with your paint department about their choice of color! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #34 Posted March 4, 2021 34 minutes ago, ranger said: Here are some pics of my homemade digger bucket / blade, I ground halfway through lengthwise and straightened out the curve a bit, then added a spare reel / cylinder mower bottom blade as a “cutting” edge. Instead of using flat plate for the mounting lugs I used some offcuts of channel with extra lugs on top so I have a choice of angle depending on whether I’m digging or grading. The blue piece is the other half of the gas cylinder which I hope to use as basis for a wheel horse mounted blade. I really like that! And there's been times that I could have used it too! Now, just need a quick change for it! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #35 Posted March 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: Nice fabrication job on that rear grader, but you need to have words with your paint department about their choice of color! Thanks. It’s the same colour as the digger, + it happened to be an aerosol can of paint left over from when I worked on salt spreaders / gritters. I didn’t want to use my international red paint, that’s for the Wheelhorses!! 👨🎨 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David414 289 #36 Posted March 6, 2021 @Lee1977@ranger@ebinmaine @Handy Don Gents, I found a fabricating shop that will roll 1/4" steel plate, cut to 48" long, and curve an arc similar to the mid mount WH grader blade. The cost was very reasonable IMHO and the upcharge from 3/16" to 1/4" was only $15. Question, I can have the blade made at any height 7" to 12" , and curved at an arc. My current design spec is for the curved blade opening of 7.25" OD with the height of 7.8125" OD. Would you make any changes to this design, and if so, why? I need to fabricate brackets to mount the blade so I am cautious about the blade height, so I have enough clearance under the tractor for the mounting arms, brackets, etc. Thanks, David 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,237 #37 Posted March 6, 2021 6 minutes ago, David414 said: so I am cautious about the blade height, so I have enough clearance under the tractor for the mounting arms, brackets, etc. I think you answered your own question. Once you've got the supporting mechanism figured out and how high the blade will mount on it, and you also know the clearance you want when the blade is lifted, you'll have the max blade height. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #38 Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) Here is close ups of the blade my dad designed and built over 30 years ago , from the 2 90° breaks for added rigidity is 6 5/8" tall. Edited March 7, 2021 by WVHillbilly520H 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,627 #39 Posted March 6, 2021 My thought would be to check the measurements in the pics and go with whatever Wheelhorse used. That way you know it'll fit. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David414 289 #40 Posted March 6, 2021 5 hours ago, Handy Don said: I think you answered your own question. Once you've got the supporting mechanism figured out and how high the blade will mount on it, and you also know the clearance you want when the blade is lifted, you'll have the max blade height. Sometimes its not necessary to reinvent the wheel. If someone had the actual measurements plus the clearance underneath the tractor , I could oversize the blade, mounting arms and brackets. Thinking of making a mount system that would do double duty, mount the curved blade using the mid tractor attachment, and also as a tow behind from a sleeve hitch. Trying to work out measurements. Thinking about the blade indexing on 15 and 45 degree angles, plus the ability to adjust the pitch of the blade from vertical to 45 degree lean back to act both as a leveler and cutter. Just a thought. A lot of members have been very creative, its always welcome to share ideas, pictures and measurements if possible. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southern_Secret 463 #41 Posted December 22, 2021 On 2/28/2021 at 8:53 PM, Lee1977 said: I used motor grader blade edge it's about 6" tall. and about 3/8" thick. It weighs about 12# a foot. They can be sawed off with a band saw if you grind the surface off first. iI cut a foot off mine to make it 4 foot. I went with that dimention because there was two existing holes in the center of the 4 foot. @Lee1977 do you have more pics of this blade, im looking to do the same thing and would like to see how you built yours? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,667 #42 Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, Southern_Secret said: @Lee1977 do you have more pics of this blade, im looking to do the same thing and would like to see how you built yours? I'll try to get some tonight, it's in the basement . A friend of mine had it for about a year it's covered in red dirt. Pivot to hitch c/c 15 1/4" 2" channels 21" long 4" channel 4 1/2" long welded 1 1/2" x1/4" to it pivot is centered between thes pieces. the channel drops down 1" at the pivot. 2"x2"x1/4" blade mount with 7/8" Ford king pin welded to it. There is a 1/4" plate 4" wide x 5 1/4" long also welded to both. Hitch bar 3/4"x9" Couple 1"x1" x1/8" angles Pivot collar 2" diameter x 2: long Blade pivots 15 degrees each way. There is also couple of 1/4" bars bolted together with bar. Lift bar 1"x3/8"x 10 3/4" long pin to pin 9 5/8" The extra red piece is a adapter for my lifted 312-8. Edited December 23, 2021 by Lee1977 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,667 #43 Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) Edited December 23, 2021 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southern_Secret 463 #44 Posted December 23, 2021 @Lee1977 Thank you so much for the measurements and pic's, you have made my life alot easier! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,667 #45 Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Southern_Secret said: @Lee1977 Thank you so much for the measurements and pic's, you have made my life alot easier! I also reinforced the hitch bar with collars welded to the channels. Can't remember if the channels were hitting some or not. I did cut a piece out bent them down and welded them. Edited December 23, 2021 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites