how do you wake up your cold engine?

[peter lena 8,634]

do you immediately full throttle your cold engine ?  or give it some time to settle in as it warms up ?  just asking , regularly give it a few minutes to smooth out and feel heat from vent side , before I  speed it up . just my own way of regularly using it, started doing that on a Smokey start engine  that I  have. trying to recover / change that problem. gained on it with engine oil flush , and easier cold start speed . today that engine does not smoke at all and runs very strong. just my own experience , pete 

[rmaynard 15,514]

My 416-H usually starts right away with a full choke. Then after it smooths out and the exhaust is clean, I go full throttle. As far as the hydro, it's eager to go as soon as the engine starts. My other horses with slinger-type oiling. I let them run at low to medium speed until I feel enough oil has gotten to the vital parts.

[johnnymag3 2,520]

Low and Slow......

 

Feed the oil !!!!

 

1-2- mins.

 

Then on my way.....  Been doing this all my life, never had issues with anything !!   

 

Never ever do I go to full tilt on any cold engine.....they are like people....a quick wake up and it may be a surprise to both of you !!!

[Slimpickins 61]

What l do is 1/2 to full choke (how cold) and half throttle  till I think there is enough heat and oil moving around then full throttle and engage hydro to warm till I think its good . 

[ebinmaine 67,628]

Around here it depends on the engine. 

The modern chipper/shredder has a Briggs 8.5 (?). That has to start full throttle or it just won't go. 90s vintage Snapper  push mower is the same. 

 

Cinnamon Horse C160 needs about 5/8 to 3/4 throttle. I have the upper stop set at about 3200 rpm. No implements to run at 3600. Because of that it's never at full throttle.  I let it run at that 3200 for 2 to 5 minutes then set to task. 

 

The rest we can start about 1/2 or a touch more. Let em warm a bit then go to more rpm. 

Choke also dependant on which machine. 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Every one seems to have its own desired startup ...My problem is remembering which one wants what ..Choke no choke how much choke and how long and how much throttle..

[JoeM 7,874]

All mine are different. In real cold weather I like to let them run a bit 5 minutes, ( I have all hydros and like to get the circulation going in the pump).

They talk to you, I have one machine in the cold takes a little choke for the first 10 minutes or so or it will bogg. 

 

I also like to idle down after a hard run to let things level out. I have no proof of this, but was told to me by an older guy that the air cooled machines get hot spots in and around the cylinder jug and it is good to let the machine cool abit at idle to mellow out the heat. ???? sounded good.

[pfrederi 17,741]

2 minutes ago, JoeM said:

All mine are different. In real cold weather I like to let them run a bit 5 minutes, ( I have all hydros and like to get the circulation going in the pump).

They talk to you, I have one machine in the cold takes a little choke for the first 10 minutes or so or it will bogg. 

 

I also like to idle down after a hard run to let things level out. I have no proof of this, but was told to me by an older guy that the air cooled machines get hot spots in and around the cylinder jug and it is good to let the machine cool abit at idle to mellow out the heat. ???? sounded good.

 

I idle down especially after running the snow blower or a lot of plowing.  Avoids the KaPoww!!! That scares the ** out of me a few seconds after shut down

[WHX?? 48,828]

18 minutes ago, JoeM said:

All mine are different. In real cold weather I like to let them run a bit 5 minutes, ( I have all hydros and like to get the circulation going in the pump).

19 minutes ago, JoeM said:

They talk to you,

So now yer a horse whisperer Joe!?!?! 

[ebinmaine 67,628]

16 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Avoids the KaPoww!!!

C160 is the only one here that does that. 

I find idling down does help but does NOT always prevent the shotgun blank explosion. 

If however, I idle down then shut off the engine immediately followed by opening the throttle to WOT it's been effective all but one time. 

 

[peter lena 8,634]

JOEM , you said it, those engines do talk to you , just reading similar reply's, lets me know I am not alone on the running feel these old horses put out , glad to be part of the horse whispering group , pete  

[JoeM 7,874]

37 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

the KaPoww

I believe that was reason for the anti fire solenoid that shuts off the main jet in the newer engines? Can be a PIA

Stops unburned fuel or I should say limits unburned fuel in the exhaust system. 

It sure can get your attention! 

[lynnmor 7,308]

Any engine I have is started and run at a moderate speed for a few minutes, I also idle down before shutdown.  Folks that drive 60+ past my house, instead of the 45 speed limit, seem to have a problem with my 35 till I get over the hill.

 

I have a generator and a log splitter that has no throttle, so they go full speed at startup and shutdown, I hate that.

Edited February 21, 2021 by lynnmor

[cschannuth 3,816]

3 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I have a generator and a log splitter that has no throttle, so they go full speed at startup and shutdown, I hate that.

I’m with you. An engine is never more vulnerable than when it’s cold. In fact, if we have a vehicle in the way in the garage and I just want to get it out of the garage we don’t even start it. We put them in neutral with the engine off and push them out. I guess I’m a nut but I’ve never had an engine fail or use oil in my 40+ years of driving operating this way. I also never race any engine until it’s broken in properly and up to full operating temperature and it has served me very well. I have 50-year-old vehicles that still run and drive like new and are all original using this methodology. 

[johnnymag3 2,520]

You can definately hear the engine talking....well making sounds.....after its started.

    The best way in my opinion is to listen for a sweet hum or thump prior to turning it loose to full throttle. The Twins hum, and the singles THUMP smoothly........  its Kohler talk     

 

Works with any engine...small or LARGE....    My 327 would hum on its lumpy cam, and the BIG block would THUMP on its lumpy cam when it was ready. Its about feeling its smoothness, and rediness.

 

All engines are different, but the SAME.    

[Slimpickins 61]

Once put together a 400 sbc from junk parts bore was from 5 to 7 thou over. when the skirts stop clattering it was warm and ready to go. How fun it was working in the machine shop as a kid.

[johnnymag3 2,520]

10 minutes ago, Slimpickins said:

Once put together a 400 sbc from junk parts bore was from 5 to 7 thou over. when the skirts stop clattering it was warm and ready to go. How fun it was working in the machine shop as a kid.

It was awesome decking blocks, cutting valves......line boring.......Boring, honing.....A lifetime of knowledge learned at a young age. I would not trade mine for ANYTHING........

Edited February 21, 2021 by johnnymag3

[Slimpickins 61]

3 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

It was awesome decking blocks, cutting valves......line boring.......Boring, honing.....A lifetime of knowledge learned at a young age. I would not trade mine for ANYTHING........

At the shop I worked the racers would throw so much good stuff away ok good to me.

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

i run my engine at 2000rpm when cold, let it run for 1 minute and then drive it on that rpm speed for a couple of more minutes. Oilsplashing engine will not trow enough oil under very low engine speeds. and a driven engine will warm up faster.

just be nice on engines when they are cold.

 

 

...My kohlers like it for me to turn off choke right when they fire up.

Edited February 21, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[lynnmor 7,308]

1 hour ago, cschannuth said:

I’m with you. An engine is never more vulnerable than when it’s cold. In fact, if we have a vehicle in the way in the garage and I just want to get it out of the garage we don’t even start it. We put them in neutral with the engine off and push them out. I guess I’m a nut but I’ve never had an engine fail or use oil in my 40+ years of driving operating this way. I also never race any engine until it’s broken in properly and up to full operating temperature and it has served me very well. I have 50-year-old vehicles that still run and drive like new and are all original using this methodology. 

 

I guess there are two nuts on here, if possible I too never start an engine to move a vehicle a short distance.

 

I did have a major engine malfunction in my 79 Chevy van about 30 years ago.  I have a grease pit and keep after oil changes, I am even a nut in that I always drain immediately after shut down to remove as much crud as possible.  This engine wiped out a cam, valve guides were wasted, and all rod bearings were worn thru the first layer in just 70,000 miles.  The only answer I have for this is that the Quaker State Super-Blend oil must have been skunk pee.  I totally overhauled the engine using the best parts available, even some racing parts, and it has been trouble free ever since.

[tom2p 2,394]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 

I guess there are two nuts on here, if possible I too never start an engine to move a vehicle a short distance.

 

I did have a major engine malfunction in my 79 Chevy van about 30 years ago.  I have a grease pit and keep after oil changes, I am even a nut in that I always drain immediately after shut down to remove as much crud as possible.  This engine wiped out a cam, valve guides were wasted, and all rod bearings were worn thru the first layer in just 70,000 miles.  The only answer I have for this is that the Quaker State Super-Blend oil must have been skunk pee.  I totally overhauled the engine using the best parts available, even some racing parts, and it has been trouble free ever since.

make that three nuts - lol

 

 

I almost never run an engine for a short period of time - tractor ... car ... whatever.

 

I will put a car in neutral and push it in the driveway - instead of starting a car to move it (so another car can be driven etc) ;  I actually do this fairly often 

as mentioned above - most engine wear occurs during cold start up 
 

and when the engine is first started - unburnt fuel etc and byproducts from combustion can make there way into the crankcase (oil).  Much of this 'stuff' will eventually burn off if the engine is run for a sufficient period of time - but will not if engine is run for just a short period of time.
 

This is also the reason I use as little choke as possible - to prevent excess fuel from making its way into the combustion chamber (and into crankcase).

Also illustrates the reason to change oil more frequently if you run engine for short periods - especially a cold engine.

 

Edited February 21, 2021 by tom2p

[squonk 41,155]

40 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

I guess there are two nuts on here, if possible I too never start an engine to move a vehicle a short distance.

 

I did have a major engine malfunction in my 79 Chevy van about 30 years ago.  I have a grease pit and keep after oil changes, I am even a nut in that I always drain immediately after shut down to remove as much crud as possible.  This engine wiped out a cam, valve guides were wasted, and all rod bearings were worn thru the first layer in just 70,000 miles.  The only answer I have for this is that the Quaker State Super-Blend oil must have been skunk pee.  I totally overhauled the engine using the best parts available, even some racing parts, and it has been trouble free ever since.

Those engines were noted for cams and guides. 79 was my first year in the shop and the SBC of the era kept me busy. Which was a good thing because I didn't have the time to work on the Olds diesels! 

[tom2p 2,394]

34 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

This engine wiped out a cam, valve guides were wasted, and all rod bearings were worn thru the first layer in just 70,000 miles.  The only answer I have for this is that the Quaker State Super-Blend oil must have been skunk pee.   
 

I worked at a service station on and off during late 70's - early 80's

 

observed multiple issues with Quaker State oil use - did not have true 'scientific proof' - but few if any would use QS or recommend it 

appeared to be especially susceptible to breakdown in cars driven in cold weather for short periods ... gunk / buildup in rocker covers and oil return holes ... due to high paraffin content ... ? ...

 

I had not touched a can / bottle of Quaker State from those days until just recently when I switched to Quaker State Ultimate Durability (full synthetic) from Mobil 1

 

[tom2p 2,394]

2 minutes ago, squonk said:

Those engines were noted for cams and guides. 79 was my first year in the shop and the SBC of the era kept me busy. Which was a good thing because I didn't have the time to work on the Olds diesels! 

somehow ... they took one of the best engines ever produced - small block Chevy - and reduced the horsepower and made them less reliable 

 

[Slimpickins 61]

1 hour ago, tom2p said:

somehow ... they took one of the best engines ever produced - small block Chevy - and reduced the horsepower and made them less reliable 

 

Yep smog em down pull the nickel out put tin in and other cheap materials and increase profits.