WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #26 Posted February 20, 2021 5 minutes ago, DennisThornton said: I've been eyeballing ATV tires just today. Not just for the fronts. But for now I'm so impressed with roller chains on the fronts! Those pictured are actually walk behind snow blower tires. 9 minutes ago, Rusty Tinsnips said: In my recent experience the Ags work slightly better than these. I am going to reverse the Ags for the next snow event to see if it is better. I wonder if reversing them would have the same effect as they have the basic AG pattern. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty Tinsnips 477 #27 Posted February 20, 2021 1 minute ago, WVHillbilly520H said: Those pictured are actually walk behind snow blower tires. I wonder if reversing them would have the same effect as they have the basic AG pattern. I will try that for the next snow event. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 603 #28 Posted February 20, 2021 This is my C-160 automatic. These are tiller tires with the hubs shortened and tapped for a grease zerk to fit the spindles. I use brass bushings and plenty of grease. They turn well in snow and in the garden. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD 145 #29 Posted February 20, 2021 My brother likes these on the front of that yellow tractor he plows with. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hi-run-replacement-tire-wd1308-16x650-8-4pr-p328-1293072 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,758 #30 Posted February 20, 2021 Don’t really get much snow here nowadays, but these work ok in the mud. Do need to add more weight to the front though. 🏋️♀️🏋️♀️🏋️♀️ 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #31 Posted February 20, 2021 9 minutes ago, ranger said: Don’t really get much snow here nowadays, but these work ok in the mud. Do need to add more weight to the front though. 🏋️♀️🏋️♀️🏋️♀️ Nice! Size? Hubs? Wheels from? And mounted correctly! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,758 #32 Posted February 20, 2021 5 minutes ago, DennisThornton said: Nice! Size? Hubs? Wheels from? And mounted correctly! Thanks, Hubs are 10” trailer hubs - 4” P.C.D. Tyres are 5.00 x 10, The rears are 7.00 x 12. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #33 Posted February 20, 2021 1 hour ago, JohnD said: My brother likes these on the front of that yellow tractor he plows with. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hi-run-replacement-tire-wd1308-16x650-8-4pr-p328-1293072 I have about the same on their way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #34 Posted February 20, 2021 12 minutes ago, ranger said: Thanks, Hubs are 10” trailer hubs - 4” P.C.D. Tyres are 5.00 x 10, The rears are 7.00 x 12. Looks great! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HittinSteel 12 #35 Posted February 21, 2021 Kit is a better friend than I deserve and started this thread for my benefit (also the supplier of my Horse 😀) Here’s my setup that is struggling in the snow. I use the tractor solely to pull my wood trailer. We’ve had about 10” of snow and I spin and have trouble turning. As you can see, I’m all setup to add weight or I’m willing to get AG tires all around. I’m hesitant to do the cycle chain on the front because it does see some pavement. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #36 Posted February 21, 2021 39 minutes ago, HittinSteel said: Kit is a better friend than I deserve and started this thread for my benefit (also the supplier of my Horse 😀) Here’s my setup that is struggling in the snow. I use the tractor solely to pull my wood trailer. We’ve had about 10” of snow and I spin and have trouble turning. As you can see, I’m all setup to add weight or I’m willing to get AG tires all around. I’m hesitant to do the cycle chain on the front because it does see some pavement. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I think you have almost all you need, or at least off to a good start. Add more cross links or swap out for 2-links. Don't buy ags for either end! If you aren't having issues with the chains marking your driveway I don't think the roller chains will be an issue either. I see nice iron weights but you could also fill the rears, and the fronts really. 4-links are a disappointment compared to 2-links and if you aren't trying to make radical turns on the blacktop the rollers won't do any harm going straight. Chains won't either unless you spin them! And! The more traction and control you have the LESS likely you are to spin. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,251 #37 Posted February 21, 2021 Please tell me I am not seeing the seat and operator being supported by two small buttons resting on the fuel tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #38 Posted February 21, 2021 Oh! And, a metal seat/fender pan can be drilled and fitted to your use to have plastic seat pan tractor. Took me a bit but I'm very glad I did it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kitkit 133 #39 Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) Hello Dennis , what was the hardest part of converting to the metal fenders . i have an older set that might work for him .Thanks Edited February 22, 2021 by kitkit more info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #40 Posted February 22, 2021 16 minutes ago, kitkit said: Hello Dennis , what was the hardest part of converting to the metal fenders . i have an older set that might work for him .Thanks This forum added a neat utility, if you type @ and then start typing the members site name slowly like @kitkit their name will be displayed in a drop down and they get notified. Otherwise it's hit or miss if your message will be seen by the intended. Most all of my plastic seat was gone BUT the important part underneath the seat that could be used as a template. The biggest hole for the gas cap needs a nibbler or jigsaw, the hole for the dipstick would appreciate a small hole saw and the rest regular bits. Pull the seat and what's left of the plastic. Set the metal one in place and find a point of reference and drill a small hole and confirm you are right. I took my time and I'm glad I did. Took longer than I expected but it came out good. Be sure to center and place as far back as possible to cover the gas tank well. So two major points, position the pan so it fits and THEN transfer all the hole locations needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kitkit 133 #41 Posted February 22, 2021 @DennisThornton Thank you very much for the information it is very helpful, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #42 Posted February 22, 2021 3 minutes ago, kitkit said: @DennisThornton Thank you very much for the information it is very helpful, Look it over good first. Don't make all the holes and then check! Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kitkit 133 #43 Posted February 22, 2021 1 hour ago, DennisThornton said: Look it over good first. Don't make all the holes and then check! Good luck! Thank you 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HittinSteel 12 #44 Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) On 2/21/2021 at 3:41 PM, Ed Kennell said: Please tell me I am not seeing the seat and operator being supported by two small buttons resting on the fuel tank. Would this fender support from a c-161 fix the issue? Edited February 23, 2021 by HittinSteel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HittinSteel 12 #45 Posted February 23, 2021 On 2/21/2021 at 3:41 PM, Ed Kennell said: Please tell me I am not seeing the seat and operator being supported by two small buttons resting on the fuel tank. I guess I’m missing how the factory plastic fender pan provides any more support than what I currently have. From looking at the IPL, it looks like the plastic pan just sits on the tank and then my support system and seat bolts on top? The buttons on the back would still seem to be the only support at the back of the seat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,251 #46 Posted February 23, 2021 I believe the fender pan, plastic or steel, should sit on top of and bolt to the steel seat pan support. There should be clearance between the fuel tank and the seat/fender pan. If the seat is supported by the fuel tank, anything under those small buttons to spread out the load will help to prevent damage to the plastic tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #47 Posted February 23, 2021 @kitkit I didn't note that I LEFT what was left of the plastic seat pan in place and the metal pan over it. Not sure that was necessary but I had chains on and figured the 1/2" or so might help a bit and it did mean that the safety switch needed no modding. Oh! And I trimmed off the plastics broken edges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kitkit 133 #48 Posted February 23, 2021 looks like it might fit , are the c 105 and c 161 similar does anyone know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #49 Posted February 23, 2021 44 minutes ago, kitkit said: looks like it might fit , are the c 105 and c 161 similar does anyone know I think so. I had several setting around and it looked like I could make all of them work. Pull the seat and lay it on to see. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kitkit 133 #50 Posted February 23, 2021 OK thank you . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites