Help ID this blower please?

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Can you get a two jaw across the housing and push the shaft out of the collar and bearing?    After removing the set screws in the collar of course and loosening the bearing block on the other end of the jack shaft.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,034]

There should be one set screw in the collar plus a blind hole a little further around the outside. You put a pin punch in the hole at an angle and hit it with a hammer. This rotates the collar on the shaft and locks the inner race of the bearing to the shaft. On installation you drive the collar in the direction of the shaft's rotation and tighten the set screw.

So now if it was installed correctly drive the collar counter clock-wise to loosen it.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

On 9/7/2021 at 8:56 AM, gwest_ca said:

should be one set screw

 

No set screws, one 1/4" roll pin which I've removed.

 

It doesn't appear that the collar is part of the bearing assembly.  [edit:  I didn't think it was, but the collar is in fact part of the bearing assembly]

 

This is an older model so perhaps a different design?

 

I'll get some better pics today.

 

 

@Ed Kennell

Edited September 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I presume this uses #40 chain?

 

No experience with chains, know I can ask Mrs. Google... Need some ejumication.

[Handy Don 12,170]

19 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

No set screws, one 1/4" roll pin which I've removed.

 

It doesn't appear that the collar is part of the bearing assembly.

 

This is an older model so perhaps a different design?

 

I'll get some better pics today.

 

@Ed Kennell

Jeff, I have a couple of those 3-bolt-mount bearings that hold the jackshaft that are in good shape from an older blower, if that's what you're looking for.

[rjg854 11,353]

Yes #40 chain

Save the old chain to make chains for your front tires 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

19 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

How do I get this collar off?

 

I got it!  Took me all dang day... 

 

I managed to get it to move just enough with some persuasion from a BFH (and yes, I did mushroom the end of the shaft a little, but that's fixed now too...) to get the flange far enough away from the side panel to get the jaws of my puller behind it.  I knew that I would bend the flange but I just gave it enough pressure to flex the plate a little bit and then beat on the screw in the puller.  Moved a little... tighten puller... beat on it some more... moved a little... lather rinse repeat.  And off it eventually came.  It's TOAST... completely worn out.

 

The chain sprocket was a piece of cake and no match for my big azz 3 jaw.

 

The other end the drive pulley came off with not much trouble but I did have to drill out one of the set screws so I'll need to get a pulley tap to clean those threads out.

 

The p.o. had replaced one of the three bolt flange bearings with a real nice 2 bolt NTN heavy duty (cast iron) flanged bearing that is in very good condition, and GREASEABLE!  I'll re-use that for sure.

 

@Handy Don  Thanks very much for the offer!  I may take you up on that... PM me and let me know how much you want for them (I only need the one with the roll pin hole though).  BUT... I'm seriously considering replacing it with something like the p.o. used on the drive pulley end so I may not need it..  Going to price those out as soon as I'm done typing. 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

The blower had a broken arm so I splinted a piece of steel on.

 

 

The chute shelf was bent inward on one side about a half inch or so.  I came up with this rig to straighten it out.  It WORKED!  

 

 

Another view of the lash up.  There's a number of cracks which I've already repaired, and the one that's not repaired is now but no pics of that.

 

 

  Straightened all the bent and ragged edges on the auger.  It's all wire brushed and ready for paint and new bearings now

 

 

I've got the shell pretty much stripped down to bare metal but no pics of that yet.  Almost ready to paint it.

 

I had a visitor too...  This thing is about 3-1/2" from nose to tail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

  I came up with this rig to straighten it out.  It WORKED!  

Rube would be proud of you.    

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

On 9/12/2021 at 7:51 AM, Ed Kennell said:

Rube would be proud of you.    

 

So would Butch!

 

I had a mentor back about 50 years ago named "Butch".  Butch was an expert body man.  He was a 'knocker'.  Had a massive set of hammers and dollies.  I still have and use a few he gave me.

 

Butch taught me a lot, and one thing he said that I'll never forget... " You need to figure out how the damage happened and reverse that process."

 

So I looked at it and looked at it.  I determined that when the arm broke. The p.o. continued to use the blower and it 'twisted' on the remaining arm and bent the shell.

 

By putting the pipe through the holes and wedging that 100 year old wrench in and pulling on it with the strap, then using the pipe clamp to pull the pipe back, I was able to put the 'reverse' force on the chute bracket.

 

Once I had tension on it I beat on the bend with a dead blow hammer where it was slightly creased on the curved part of the shell to straighten it. 

 

Added a little more tension and welded the crack while still under tension.  I also used the torch to heat the shell where it was creased.

 

When I was finished and loosened the clamps there was very little 'spring back' and it's ALMOST perfect.  Still a little twist, but acceptable.

 

That's the story... THANKS BUTCH!  {R.I.P. my friend!}.

 

[edit: A little googling reveals that Butch may still be among the living!  In 2014 he was STILL RACING Stock cars!  He was at least 20 years my senior so that would make him in his late 80s now. I need to do more research and go visit if he's still with us!]

 

Edited September 13, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I'll post some progress pics later, but I've got pretty much everything on the blower stripped to bare metal, and primed.  It's amazing how many small cracks appear when one strips to metal!  My welder got a workout!

 

 I will probably start shooting the Regal Red in a couple days after the primer cures...

 

The only part I think I'm still waiting on is the 3/4" keyed drive shaft.  With the new heavy duty drive shaft bearings, the old shaft is about an inch too short so I have to go new.

 

So far, https://thebigbearingstore.com has been a cheap source for the bearings, sprockets, and shaft.  Yeah, Chinese stuff, but what isn't these days?  Quality appears to be pretty good.  We'll see how the bearings hold up!

 

Edited September 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

Drilled the holes for the new bearings, 2 hole flanged, UCFL204-12 .

 

 

 

Using the old shaft for test fitting purposes, as mentioned earlier using these bearings make the shaft is too short.

I got the new shaft yesterday, keyed the full length for 3/16" square keys, so the position of the sprocket and pulley can be adjusted for chain and belt alignment.

 

Most of the parts are now primed, a few more things to clean and prime, then REDdy for RED and assembly.

 

Speaking of RED...  @pullstart be careful using 4" grinders!  Just when you least expect it they'll reach out and take a bite outta your finger!  OUCH! and BLOOD!  CARNAGE!

 

 

Edited September 18, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

Today was small part paintin' day out at the old "Hackberry Paintin' Tree":

 

 

Also added a tab for the lift helper spring on the flag.  Slowly improving with my welding skills, I didn't feel the need to clean this up with the grinder (considering it would be underneath the machine!)

 

(ignore "Click and hold to compare") stupid Google Photos!

 

All that pitting you see... these parts were extremely rusty!  Cleaned em up with the stripping wheel in

the 4" grinder and treated the rust before priming with a coat of "Rust Reformer" and a coat of

"Rusty Metal" primer before shooting the top coats of "Good Old Regal Red".

 

 

 

 

Edited September 19, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,588]

@Jeff-C175 , dare I say it , use chain and cable lube on that auger drive , never let it dry out , only if you want to , pete 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Jeff-C175 , dare I say it , use chain and cable lube on that auger drive , never let it dry out , only if you want to , pete 

 

Absolutely Pete!  You betcha!  That chain is gonna be slicker than... (your choice of euphemism here) !

 

The bearings that I haven't had to replace (the belt idlers and the sprocket idlers) have all been opened, cleaned, and re-lubed with Lucas.  

 

The bearings that were on the idlers were still smooth but they were done also.  It's kinda tricky with the "NICE" bearings (brand name) which have the plastic ring under the metal ring, but it's very do-able if you are very careful and go slow slow slow in lifting the inner part of the metal ring with a small screwdriver.  But I gotter done.  They'll outlast me for sure!

 

I could have BOUGHT a blower ready to use and not had to spend upwards of 80 hours restoring this FREE one, but where's the FUN in that!    Including paint, bearings for the auger and drive shaft, etc, I've got under a hundred bucks into this one.

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I wonder what belt I'm going to end up using for this application?

 

[edit: Ended up with 68"]

 

Probably going to have to measure...

 

Can anyone shed any light on where the lift assist spring attaches to the tractor?

(edit: I think I figured it out... to the rod for the front footrest that goes through the frame?)

 

 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,588]

@Jeff-C175 , added a turnbuckle to that spring , at mount point to adjust spring , also lubricate the frame on the blower idler pulley area , lubricate the mount holes , lets the frame spring tension work very easily , giving you more speed , pete

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

On 9/19/2021 at 7:54 AM, peter lena said:

@Jeff-C175 , added a turnbuckle to that spring , at mount point to adjust spring , also lubricate the frame on the blower idler pulley area , lubricate the mount holes , lets the frame spring tension work very easily , giving you more speed , pete

 

Are you talking about the lift assist spring Pete?

 

I've never mounted a blower,  not sure of the actual dimensions yet, but it doesn't appear that there's room under there for a turnbuckle.

 

I was going to use an eye bolt for tension adjustment.

 

Is your suggestion to use a turnbuckle in lieu of the eye bolt?

 

As I understand it the spring dimensions are 1.5" diameter and 7.5" hook to hook.  Is that your experience as well?

 

[edit: 7-1/2" was a little too long, I shortened it to 6-1/2"]

 

Edited September 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,588]

@ jeff-C175 , yes the lift assist spring , did some experimenting with both an eye bolt as well as a turnbuckle on the spring . main thing was getting enough lift help . also tried an added vertical spring pull , that helped . as you set up your mount regularly check on how much easier it lifts or doesn't. also put my blower on top of a  4x4 up off the floor , that helped in mounting . pete 

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

 

Here's a pic of the 3 spring lift assist I had on my blower.  The blower would just float and could be raised with about 5lbs of pull on the lift lever.   I don't have a pic, but I made a custom "flag" that had a extension to the rear where a turnbuckle connected the springs to the flag.    Sorry I can't get pics now as I went to all hyd lifts on my tractors.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

7 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I went to all hyd lifts

@peter lena

@DCwom

 

Mine is also hydro lift and I probably don't NEED the assist spring at all, but I figured I would go ahead and add the tab for it anyway.  Might as well 'take a load off' the hydro, maybe it will thank me?

 

I cut down an old garage door spring today and bent a new hook on the end  ( NOT EASY! required the help of RUBE G. ! )  I made it 7" hook to hook.  I think it will be fine.

Discovered that heating the metal is NOT the way to go!  I tried three times to re-temper the metal and it did NOT work.  The hook broke off with minimal hand pressure. 

This was my 4th try and bent without heating.  MUCH harder of course, but I don't think it will break.  I don't know if I'm going to be able to get it around the 3/4" footrest rod, might have to use an "S" hook.  I sure hope I don't have to shorten it!

 

I got purt much everything painted today, first coat.  the new bearings in the auger.  I popped the seals and there was a very meager amount of what looked like petroleum jelly on one side only. 

I wiped that all out and put a reasonable amount of Lucas R&T ), and I think I'm ready to start re-assembling.

That sucker sure is RED!

 

Sorry for the 'washout' on this one, the sun was in the cameras 'eyes'.

Edited September 20, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

7 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

3 spring lift assist

 

Ed, that looks like a bolt through the 'Tach-A-Matic' and not on the footrest rod?

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I have a question for anyone that has ever had the auger out of their blower.

 

When I took this one apart there were TWO washers each about .085" thick between each bearing and the side plate, but the IPL only shows ONE washer on either side.

 

 

Is there any viable reason that this one had TWO?   I think this would create axial thrust on the bearings and lead to their early demise.

 

ONE washer stands 'proud', on top of the bearing, of the end of the auger shaft by about 0.010" which would keep the ends of the shaft from contacting the side panels.

 

I'm going to take a close look at this when I re-assemble.

 

Interesting that the later model 84-87 IPL for the 06-42ST04 shows two washers:

 

 

I think I may have figured it out...  the later model does not have the height adjuster on it, but rather has the plate with the 'stub axles' that bolts from the side.

 

 

I know the drawings aren't 'to scale', but that hole looks bigger than the hole in my early model.

 

 

I bet that the extra washer is needed to take up the 'slack' of the bigger hole.  

 

Probably a 'repair guy' back in the day was looking at the wrong diagram and thought he needed the extra washers.  I'm going to use just one.

 

[edit: I ended up using two on each end after all.  There was almost a quarter inch of end play which I felt was too much, and probably what the original repair guy thought also.]

 

 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

7 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Ed, that looks like a bolt through the 'Tach-A-Matic' and not on the footrest rod?

 

Correct Jeff, it gives a little more room for longer springs.  Easier to install....slide the springs on the rod, then snap the rod in the att-a-mat.

  I also use sections of old garage door springs and cold bend the end hooks w/o any problems.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

old garage door springs

 

I thought that one closest to the camera looked like a GD spring!

 

I might end up doing something similar.  I have some 3/4" stock left over, and that would definitely give me enough room to use a turnbuckle also.

 

Maybe in another week or so I can do a 'test fitting'.  I'm not sure that the lift rod is going to be long enough.  This blower might have come from a medium or short frame machine and from what I can gather from the manuals I've studied is that there are at least two different length lift rods.

 

The other thing that I might have to fiddle with is belt alignment.  I see in the OMs that there may be some spacers on the idler shaft required to line everything up.  Not concerned with the pulley on the jack shaft as I can move that in our out as needed since I'm using a shaft with full length key slot and it's 36" long.  I'll cut it down after I get all that worked out.