Help ID this blower please?

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

I acquired this blower attachment this past weekend. (thanks Dennis!)

 

The model ID tag is missing so I am not sure which one it is or what it fits.

 

I'm wondering about some missing parts.  I know that the side wings are missing.  Any available anywhere?  If not, I can make them but would need dimensions if someone can help with that.

 

Is the part missing from the end of the lift rod the so-called 'FLAG' that is so often missing on these units?  Looking at the part manuals in the files section, it appears to be so.  is there a source for these?  Or perhaps a drawing so I can make one?

 

I'm unclear how this thing raises and lowers.  I presume that the 'flag' attaches to the lift mech on the tractor but what does it do?  Push forward to pivot the blower up? 

 

I don't think this is the correct blower for my C-series, is it?  If not, can it be made to work with it?  Mine is a Hydro if that makes a difference.

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

I don't know the M/N Jeff, but that will fit on a any C series. 

   It has the frame Mount kit.   That long 3/8" bolt goes thru the two front holes in the frame    They also made an attach-a-matic mount kit.. 

 Yes , the flag attaches to the vertical lug on the lift lever and pushes the blower forward to tilt it up.   I don't have any blowers so I don't have flag or wing dimensions.

 

 

That is one of the older SCSS   (short chute single stage) blowers   It has the adjustable wheels.  They are too narrow to add much support unless on a paver surface.   They are really handy for moving the blower when it is off the tractor.

Edited February 8, 2021 by Ed Kennell

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

18 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

That long 3/8" bolt goes thru the two front holes in the frame 

 

Thanks Ed!

 

It looks like the holes that the 3/8 bolt goes through are bushed down from 3/4 so I can use a piece of the 3/4 stock I have to drop right into the attach-a-matic I think.

 

I might have to do something different with the wheels in order to use on my bluestone drive then.

 

I still don't really understand how the lift works though, the lift on my machine is up / down, not fore / aft ... I can't envision how pushing that arm up and down would lift and lower the blower.  But I'm not good at Jomatree and can't even spell it, so there is that!

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Those bushings are there to make it easier to install the blower.   You put one bushing on the bolt, then insert the bolt thru the tractor frame holes, then jiggle the blower around to get the bushings to slide into the 3/4" hole.     Your idea of using a 3/4" rod and the attach-a-matic may work.    The blower would sit further forward  than designed. You would need a longer belt and push/lift rod

.Snowthrower 37in 1966-67 ST-376 OM IPL.pdf

 

This may be your blower.

If you have a C series there should be a vertical lug on the lift /rock shaft that rotates forward when you  raise the lift.    I'll try to find the dwg of this.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

15 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

a vertical lug on the lift /rock shaft that rotates forward when you  raise the lift

 

I think there is, I'll crawl around later and have a look-see.  

 

I can use the frame holes if they are there, or I could shorten the frame and drill some holes.  I don't think it would make much difference in mounting it as far as easy / hard, just 'different'.  I'll have to look for those holes also, never noticed!

 

In any case, I'm quite sure this is going to need a bit of work to get operational, bearings and such seem pretty well rusted up, and it certainly could use some rust removal and Regal Red!

 

I've located an appropriate piece of steel to make the extensions out of, although it would work without them I'm sure.

 

I guess the 37" dimension is from 'wing to wing' because the auger housing itself is right around 34"

 

I did download that manual earlier and do believe it may be the correct one.

Edited February 8, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[pfrederi 17,681]

Ed is right on  If you hook it to your tachmatic you will need a longer belt and lift rod.  There is a significant difference in length.

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Lift Linkage Hydro transmission.pdf           Here's the lift  dwg. Jeff.     Note the blower lift (the flag pin) goes in the upper hole in the vertical lug.

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

For some reason the attachments aren't downloading.  Probably something to do with my IT department (work computer).  Let me try on another machine.

 

11 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

length.

 

We have good taste in tape measures!  I have the same one!

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Thanks for the pic Paul.   I have used both blower mounts and they both work well.   I do believe the frame mount is easier to install.

The Tach-a-matic can be a hassle to get the pin in both slots and hold it up while you close the keeper.  Could use 4 hands some times.

The frame mount is easy to get the 3/8" bolt thru the  3/4" holes.    Then work  each bushing in individually.

[squonk 41,040]

1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said:

Thanks for the pic Paul.   I have used both blower mounts and they both work well.   I do believe the frame mount is easier to install.

The Tach-a-matic can be a hassle to get the pin in both slots and hold it up while you close the keeper.  Could use 4 hands some times.

The frame mount is easy to get the 3/8" bolt thru the  3/4" holes.    Then work  each bushing in individually.

I run into the same problem. A cheap $20 car jack on the PTO side seems to line it up so the hitch latches.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

16 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

lift rod. 

 

Paul, would you happen to have the missing part of the lift rod handy to take a pic of?

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

8 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

attachments aren't downloading

 

Nope... other computer with Firefox not working either!  Wonder why? 

 

[pfrederi 17,681]

See this thread just below has a nice picture of the flag

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

     Try this.      Just click on the picture Jeff.

 

Edited February 8, 2021 by Ed Kennell

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

45 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Try this

 

That did the trick and now I know exactly what you're talking about!  Yes... I have that on my 'sheen of course.

 

I kept thinking of the arm below that the mower deck and the plow blade hang from.   Wasn't thinking of the rocker above!

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Just thinking about your idea of moving the blower mount  forward to the  att-a-matic.    Not saying  the hyd. won't lift it but the geometry gets worse as the blower is moved forward causing the angle of the push rod to the pivot point  to get smaller requiring more force to lift the same weight.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Not saying  the hyd. won't lift it

 

I was thinking that too.  If it works fine as is I'm going to leave it that way, why 'make work'? 

 

I think the assist spring would be a good thing to have even with the hydro, why make IT work harder?

 

I see that Lowell sells the flag, spring and eyebolt on his website, if I can't find a used one I will pop for that.  Are there any other sources for used or new ones anybody knows about?

 

Brings to mind another question,  it's probably covered in the manual, but what belt would I use with this?

 

And one more observation on running the machine in the cold...  I DEFINITELY need to duct some hot engine air up to the intake manifold to prevent icing.  Had to stop twice the other day to thaw out the manifold with my heat gun.  Thinking about rigging up some flexible exhaust tubing, maybe 1-1/4" up to the carb area.  Should work I think.  Would be nice to find that 'summer / winter' kit they used to sell for the Twin.

 

I just shot all the moving points on the blower with some Blaster and everything seemed to free up well.  I may find that the bearings are rusted to poop anyway but at least everything is moving.  I don't think I'm a big fan of that cable operated chute control.  Seems like a 'Rube Goldberg' contraption that's prone to failure.  I see that WH came out with a 'low friction' kit for the chute, this one obviously doesn't have that installed.  Going to look into that when I take to rebuilding this one.  In the Spring time!  Not going to undertake that now.  It's COLD! here!  18° here last night, 20° right now.  It's been colder though, but this is tough to work in the shop when it's this cold, even with a campfire going.  Need to start a fire 3 hours before to warm everything up and I don't like to start it and walk away... 

Edited February 8, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

Lincoln at A-Z tractor probably has every used WH part made.       I'm not sure if you'll find a belt size in the manual.   When In doubt, I measure using an old belt, then buy several at TSC and return the belts I don't use.     The chute rotator can be a problem.     Not sure if yours has the spool on the 1/2" crank rod.   The spool was added later after problems with winding the cable around the 1/2" rod surfaced.

I think my KT17 has a winter or summer position for the air cleaner inlet.  The winter position connects to a port on the tins to pick up warm air.   Oh, maybe that's on the Onan P220.   I'll have to check.

[pfrederi 17,681]

I would guess you have a rubber tube feeding you air cleaner from the air shroud (like this).  The flywheel fan is flinging snow and cold air directly into the air cleaner.  Maybe you could pull the tube out of the shroud and bend (and maybe extend it ) so it draws fro a warmer spot and cover the hole in the air shroud with duct tape.

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

spool on the 1/2" crank rod

 

No spool on this one, I thought it was just 'missing in action'.  I can fashion something I think.  Should be a 'no brainer'.  

 

I recently got a pair of rear wheels from Lincoln and very happy with that purchase!  I'll give him a buzz first to see what he has.  He may have the side wings too.  Thanks for the reminder!  

 

6 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

my KT17

 

6 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

maybe that's on the Onan P220

 

Could be either I suppose, but the service bulletin that I was looking at was for the KT17.  Mine has the 'teardrop' air filter on it and that kit was for the 'top hat' kit.  If yours has the 'top hat' you could well have the kit installed on yours.  I know I can knock something together easily and in fact I have a few feet of the flexible exhaust tubing here already.  I could even make it out of 2" copper which I also have a good supply of!   For that matter, I also have a supply of galvanized sheets and enough pop rivets to last several lifetimes!  I've been known to 'knock some tin' in my time!  "Hi, my name is Jeff and I'm a hoarder"!  

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,035]

Snowthrower DNA

All have 2 idler sprockets for the drive chain. Started out as 37" wide and the added wings make them 42" wide.

1966-67 model ST-376

1968 model 6-1211

1969 6-6211 plus 6-9111

1970-72 model 6-6212 plus 6-9112

All without front quick hitch so not a direct fit for 1973 and later tractors. Snowthrower rear frame mounts in the front of the tractor frame using 2 bushings and a long 3/8-16 x 8-1/2" bolt.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Front quick hitch introduced in 1973. Snowthrower rear frame has a 5/8" diameter round bar.

1973-74 model 6-6212 plus 6-9113

1974 model 6-6213 - (First model to include 8-0221 extensions without the front straight return - just a flat plate)

1975 model 6-6214 - (First model to include 8-0221 [103552 replaced by 93-1617 and 93-1617-01] side extensions with the front straight return. First model to have a cable spool on chute rotating crank)

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

you have a rubber tube feeding you air cleaner from the air shroud (like this)

 

Hi Paul, yes, exactly like that.  I thought about doing something with that but it may be just as easy, or even easier, to use that flex tubing to duct some warm air from the fins in a 'u turn' to under the carb / intake manifold.  No finagling with the intake tube required.  Just the exhaust tubing and a few metal zip ties.  Then when summer rolls 'round just cut the ties and throw the gadget on the shelf so I have to search high and low next winter for where I stashed it.

[Ed Kennell 38,032]

I had some success using 0.105" dia. string trimmer line in place of the braided cable  for chute control.

[pfrederi 17,681]

I think warmer dry intake air would be more efficient than just trying to warm the intake manifold.  The M18 i have has the intake off the side in summer over a hole in the exhaust side tins i the winter....

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

13 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

warmer dry intake air would be more efficient than just trying to warm the intake manifold

 

You could be right about that!  I'm going to take a look tomorrow and see if perhaps I can figure out a way to put something 'professional' and 'permanent' in place with maybe a 'flapper' that I can flip for summer / winter.

 

I'm not real sure why they are taking intake air from under the tins in the first place.  Maybe hoping that the screen on the flywheel would stop some of the grass?  It STILL gets in there!  During the summer I have to clean the prefilter every time I mow.

 

In fact, I bet taking inlet air from the side opposite the exhaust would result in LESS grass being airborne and entering the filter housing.