Round 2 of Sickle Redoing

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

As some may know, I tried selling my Sickle bar off my 1257. I must have opened and closed the post about 4 times. I can't part with it. My conscience won't let me. So, instead, before I took it all apart, lubed everything, cleaned and painted it. 4 years later (now), I'm going to take it all apart again, but this time replace bearings and seals and other things. Sharpen the knives again, etc. I have the parts diagram and numbers. If someone could point me in the right direction of the current part numbers for the bearings and seals. I have some written down already from other members on here who have done theirs. Looking forward to the round 2 of the teardown.

[dclarke 4,032]

I think Jim, "WHX24" might be able to help you out with those numbers. Maybe he'll chime in later. 

Edited February 8, 2021 by dclarke

[squonk 41,039]

@Lane Ranger ?

[Lane Ranger 10,947]

I think my redo thread on RedSquare has those seals and bearings  numbers or update equivalents but I don’t recall heading.  Might have been either a 42 or 50 inch sickle redo.  I can’t recall off the top of my head! 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Thanks Lane, I read all of your content and it helps. I ordered 2 seals on ebay, got a sealed bearing from parts store. I never really used it but just realized the little part on the wobble box that the handle catches on to lift it up is like half the size it should be. Basically it's worn down. Gonna have to figure that out while its apart. Everything else seems fine. 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Welp while waiting on parts, I cleaned up the pieces and painted what I messed with. I lugged it in the basement as 1 piece so it got all banged up. When it dries I have to blend it to match the pieces I painted 4 years ago (I have my ways). As for the wobble box, where the handle catches the tiny piece thats half gone, I made up a "makeshift" setup. I can't weld on the casting (wow that would be too easy). Instead I made a 90 degree bracket that goes from the bottom to the wobble box. Kind of hard to explain when its together I will post a pic. Hopefully its good enough for the weight of the beast. Doesn't have to be perfect, just want it to perform and look clean. 

[Lane Ranger 10,947]

On 2/11/2021 at 2:49 PM, Thegearhead0324 said:

Welp while waiting on parts, I cleaned up the pieces and painted what I messed with. I lugged it in the basement as 1 piece so it got all banged up. When it dries I have to blend it to match the pieces I painted 4 years ago (I have my ways). As for the wobble box, where the handle catches the tiny piece thats half gone, I made up a "makeshift" setup. I can't weld on the casting (wow that would be too easy). Instead I made a 90 degree bracket that goes from the bottom to the wobble box. Kind of hard to explain when its together I will post a pic. Hopefully its good enough for the weight of the beast. Doesn't have to be perfect, just want it to perform and look clean. 

 

 

 

Yes  I would like to see the handle part that is worn when you get a chance to get a pic.

 

It might be an easy fix for a replacementt.

 

 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

I just wish I could weld on the wobble box, it would be cake to make a thicker piece. Still waiting on the seals. Then I can start assembling. Little cold in the basement so paint takes forever to dry. I got the new jam nut, assortment of nuts and bolts, cotter pins, new tiny screws that go on the plate, and I just got a arm in the mail that holds the sickle bar up from a seller on ebay, I believe he had one in the classifieds here too, looks very nice. 

[Lane Ranger 10,947]

Yes both Lowell S  (wheelhorsepartsand more.com  )  and DJ Harrison are selling the sickle arm and plate that goes on the tractor to hold arm up when not in use.

 

 

More pics of some of  the sickles I have now.  The 1054-A  -1965 tractor with a 50 inch sickle made for the wider 1054 frame.

 

My  701  with the rare CBR-327 32 inch chain drive front cutter bar. I redid the complete blade replacement last year on it.

 

854  with 50 inch sickle bar mower (I redid and sold this one)

 

 

My CB-32 inch front sickle on one of my 1958 RJ's  

 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Ok so I got the wobble box all put together finally after 2 weeks waiting for seals. Everything went together smoothly. New seals, bearing, new clips, and new jam nut. My only question is, how much play or movement should there be? I know its not suppose to be tight tight but there is the slightest amount of play when you wiggle the arm that goes up and down. 

[Lane Ranger 10,947]

On 2/20/2021 at 5:25 PM, Thegearhead0324 said:

Ok so I got the wobble box all put together finally after 2 weeks waiting for seals. Everything went together smoothly. New seals, bearing, new clips, and new jam nut. My only question is, how much play or movement should there be? I know its not suppose to be tight tight but there is the slightest amount of play when you wiggle the arm that goes up and down. 

 

 

There will be some play due to wear on the hole from the pin mosing in the center of the wobble box.   The big piece with the hole that runs thruough the wobble box gets work and can break in the center from wear and stress.   I had a new pin pade at a machine shop for one that cost me $70  but it was made from much harder steet than the original pin.

 

The play is not much of an issue.  

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Ok good, hopefully the play won't break anything while in motion. Its about 1/8" of play. I put the rest back together. Waiting on a nice day to mount it back on the horse.

[peter lena 8,583]

thegearhead0324 , liked your article and other related replies , critical to the type of drive used in this unit is the often neglected lubrication to it , poly urea rated grease and other lubricants , will make that unit run with little effort .https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31367/using-polyurea-grease , commonly used in heavy j/d equipment , it really helps out. having often recovered neglected equipment , found just running it in , with added aerosol tube lubricant , at obvious stiff areas , suddenly releases its original smooth function . then I would detail that lube area , making it function , without effort , no offence to anyone with my experience , pete 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Thanks for the helpful tip, will definitely check out the link and make sure I get good stuff.

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Well I mounted it on the horse. What a chore i forgot what a pita it is. Took my plow off it and put the sickle bar on. I definitely gotta touch up the tractor and stuff again from using it past few winters. Only issue, the bracket I came up with isn't really good enough to lift the bar up and down. Anyone have any other suggestions or ideas I'd appreciate it. 

[Lane Ranger 10,947]

16 hours ago, Thegearhead0324 said:

Well I mounted it on the horse. What a chore i forgot what a pita it is. Took my plow off it and put the sickle bar on. I definitely gotta touch up the tractor and stuff again from using it past few winters. Only issue, the bracket I came up with isn't really good enough to lift the bar up and down. Anyone have any other suggestions or ideas I'd appreciate it. 

 

 

Lowell:  Makes and sells the lift bracket and the bracket and tower piece needed to  secure the sickle when not in use.  They are  like the originals.    Much easier to buy from Lowell than making your own.

 

Support our Wheel Horse vendors and part suppliers to keep the tractors going!

 

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/

 

 

 

 

Edited February 27, 2021 by Lane Ranger

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Thank you for the source of parts, although I have all brackets and hardware necessary. Its kind of hard to explain. So on the wobble box itself, molded to it is a lip I would call it. The lip where the bottom thick part of the handle catches on is half gone due to wear, on the wobble box body. So I tried making a bracket so it catches on another spot so the cutter bar can lift up while in use. The bracket didn't work as after 6 to 8 times of testing it, it bent and is too weak, plus putting strain on the framing, cotter pin, etc. An alternative im thinking about just doing is some sort of chain to mount, from the handle to the hole in the cutter bar so it can be lifted. 

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

Welp I ended up just drilling a hole half way up the handle, put a bolt thru with a chain from the bolt hole to the hole on the cutter bar with a D ring. It works fine. Just gotta touch up all the spots a scraped up from trial and error, trying to get the thing right and functioning. It works as it should can't wait to try it when grass grows (which will be a while.) 

[Zeek 2,286]

@Thegearhead0324 Can you post the part numbers and where you got them (bearing/seals)? I'm getting ready to redo the very same sickle bar and mine leaks as well. And any other part you think may be helpful.

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

100963 seal, 103118 seal, 203FF sealed bearing. I got the seals off ebay, the bearing i got thru autozone in stock. The snap ring clips I went to lowes for, matched up the sizes (I broke 2 of the original ones.) Thats about it really..... oh I also replaced the inner jam nut. Got that off ebay too. Its 3/4"x16. The tiny little screws holding the plate on #10 24 ×3/8" long, lowes got them as well.