Sammy 89 #1 Posted February 8, 2021 Well guys I’ve recently picked up a 1276 and it runs like new and drives good for the most part but it has a fun and dangerous issue I need some help with. If you push in the neutral return brake pedal it will return and stop motion as it should but as soon as you let off of it the control lever falls forward and it takes off full speed. There isn’t much of a crawling speed to this tractor at all it’s either neutral or full speed and I need to get it fixed because I’d like to mow with it this upcoming season. Are there any fixes for this issue I’m having? (It’s the tractor on the farthest right in the picture) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,056 #2 Posted February 8, 2021 Transmission adjustments start in Part 1 with good pictures in Part 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #3 Posted February 8, 2021 Pull the console cover off. Take a good look at the plastic cam on the linkage. Make sure it isn't broken. Also make sure the little tension clamps are there. If you need new ones you can by them Here: https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/ . Also check the metal linkage "Hoop for binding and missing bushings 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #4 Posted February 8, 2021 15 minutes ago, squonk said: Pull the console cover off. Take a good look at the plastic cam on the linkage. Make sure it isn't broken. Also make sure the little tension clamps are there. If you need new ones you can by them Here: https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/ . Also check the metal linkage "Hoop for binding and missing bushings I don’t think it’s anything along those lines because I have tightened everything probably beyond the limit of tightening for them and it still just falls down. I think there might be something messed up in the transmission pump body with an acceleration valve because instead of having standard 6 point bolts holding the pump on like the older Sundstrands did it has 12 point bolts in it like a newer one making me think that someone was in there before and messed something up, also here is a video of the exact issue and when it’s running the lever falls even faster! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #5 Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) With it running the tension on the belt pulls the idler down which in turn pulls the shaft the idler pivots on. This shaft passes thru the control hoop and if it binds will slam the lever forward. The actual hydro itself does not effect the ease the linkage moves. We need pics of the linkage itself. I had this exact same problem on my 1075. Did you read all of the posts in Paul's thread? It's sounds like you need to replace the cam and tension plates. Edited February 8, 2021 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #6 Posted February 8, 2021 Ok I think I am understanding a little bit and would you want pictures of the hydraulic lever linkage or the parking brake linkage, and would it be more helpful if me to just get a video of all of it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #7 Posted February 8, 2021 25 minutes ago, squonk said: With it running the tension on the belt pulls the idler down which in turn pulls the shaft the idler pivots on. This shaft passes thru the control hoop and if it binds will slam the lever forward. The actual hydro itself does not effect the ease the linkage moves. We need pics of the linkage itself. I had this exact same problem on my 1075. Did you read all of the posts in Paul's thread? It's sounds like you need to replace the cam and tension plates. Ok i have a c141 parts tractor that has the tension plate and cam on it so I’m going to replace them both today with those and see if it helps and if not I’ll find new ones. If it helps even a little I’m going to buy new because then I know that’s the issue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,981 #8 Posted February 8, 2021 Had the same issue with a 1076. Replaced the cam plate and used allen screws and lock washers to tighten more. That helped a little but not enough. Finally solved the problem by bending the ears on the tension plates to increase the pressure on the cam plate. How much to bend is trial & error. Good luck, Jim 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,389 #9 Posted February 8, 2021 I kinda did the same thing as you Jim, I flipped the tension plates over as they seemed to have more bend than the way they were, that helped my situation, I had also installed a new cam. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #10 Posted February 8, 2021 Well fellas I just replaced the cam plate and just flipped over the tension plates and belt them a little and that seems to be working much better than it did, I also discovered a crack in the cam plate so that probably had something to do with it also! Now I’m setting up to put a hydraulic lift on this thing that came off of an electro 12 and the tractor I’ve Codenamed stingray will be done! (Top picture is the broken cam plate!) (bottom picture is why I call it stingray) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,389 #11 Posted February 8, 2021 A little bit of caulk under that hood ornament and it'll be all better, I have a hood ornament that only has the one post too. You wouldn't know it now 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #12 Posted February 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, rjg854 said: A little bit of caulk under that hood ornament and it'll be all better, I have a hood ornament that only has the one post too. You wouldn't know it now That’s a good tip that I’m definitely going to remember but we have plans of doing a restoration on this tractor and putting hydraulic lift on it so we’ll most likely end up using another hood ornament Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pollack Pete 2,273 #13 Posted February 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Sammy said: Well fellas I just replaced the cam plate and just flipped over the tension plates and belt them a little and that seems to be working much better than it did, I also discovered a crack in the cam plate so that probably had something to do with it also! Now I’m setting up to put a hydraulic lift on this thing that came off of an electro 12 and the tractor I’ve Codenamed stingray will be done! (Top picture is the broken cam plate!) (bottom picture is why I call it stingray) Be careful where you bend over!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 89 #14 Posted February 8, 2021 6 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said: Be careful where you bend over!! Lol, we have been knowing that the 1276 is out there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,816 #15 Posted February 11, 2021 On 2/8/2021 at 6:53 AM, squonk said: With it running the tension on the belt pulls the idler down which in turn pulls the shaft the idler pivots on. This shaft passes thru the control hoop and if it binds will slam the lever forward. The actual hydro itself does not effect the ease the linkage moves. We need pics of the linkage itself. I had this exact same problem on my 1075. Did you read all of the posts in Paul's thread? It's sounds like you need to replace the cam and tension plates. I found the plastic cam but where can I get the tension plates? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #16 Posted February 11, 2021 1 hour ago, cschannuth said: I found the plastic cam but where can I get the tension plates? Thanks https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/5998-wheel-horse-cam-tension-plate/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
