Looking for tips and advice

[peter lena 9,002]

BCMEDIC85, welcome to the site, lots of good feedback here, agree with going to a clutch return SPRING  instead of the gas cylinder , much more reliable , lubricate spring mount point and all related linkage , with aerosol and grease fittings , for total smooth function. since you will be on a BASELINE MAINTIANCE VERIFACATION , trans oil should be changed , jack up front end to ensure most oil drain from rear end , left bottom corner , allen plug , usually dirt filled . grease the front end , while jacked up , 3 fittings ,plus steering gear fan area, under dash. replace shift boot , 75-90 gear oil , 2 qts . if you want to , start to recover your paint , use an aerosol penetrating oil , on a clean cloth and rub down all paint till dry , wait couple days , do it again , till paint starts to break , thru , grunge. then use a cleaner wax with a 6" palm buffer. that will encourage you with a fresh paint look . this is only a small part of what I do on a baseline service , look over everything , let us know how you are doing , pictures if possible , good luck , pete

[peter lena 9,002]

BCMEDIC85, welcome to the site, lots of good feedback here, agree with going to a clutch return SPRING  instead of the gas cylinder , much more reliable , lubricate spring mount point and all related linkage , with aerosol and grease fittings , for total smooth function. since you will be on a BASELINE MAINTIANCE VERIFACATION , trans oil should be changed , jack up front end to ensure most oil drain from rear end , left bottom corner , allen plug , usually dirt filled . grease the front end , while jacked up , 3 fittings ,plus steering gear fan area, under dash. replace shift boot , 75-90 gear oil , 2 qts . if you want to , start to recover your paint , use an aerosol penetrating oil , on a clean cloth and rub down all paint till dry , wait couple days , do it again , till paint starts to break , thru , grunge. then use a cleaner wax with a 6" palm buffer. that will encourage you with a fresh paint look . this is only a small part of what I do on a baseline service , look over everything , let us know how you are doing , pictures if possible , good luck , pete

[Bcmedic85 12]

Thanks guys for all the information. Been busy and haven’t had much time to actually work on it was able to sneak in a few pictures though found the sticker with the numbers on it. Also looked in at the drive belt and could not see any numbers or writing on it at all and with the clutch pedal fully released the belt seems pretty lose to me so it may have the wrong one on it. And got a better picture of the clutch pedal it is definitely too far back, and looked under the left side it has a very long spring that is connected to the linkage. Does everyone else’s spring look like this? I’ll attach the pictures. And thanks again you guys are great!

[DennisThornton 4,770]

My clutch spring is very strong and completely compressed when at rest.

[Achto 28,265]

18 minutes ago, Bcmedic85 said:

 

That spring looks like it is over stretched to me.

 

One other thing to check when you get the belt guard off. See if the idle/tension pulley moves with the brake peddle. If there is a sheared roll pin on the shaft for the tension pulley arm, the peddle will move but there will be no tension applied to the belt. This could also explain why your brake peddle is pulled back so far.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

The brake pedal on the right side is supposed to hit the inside corner of the foot rest and that prevents it from coming back too far. What happens is the foot rest eventually gets bent down and the pedal misses it and comes back too far. Bend the foot rest back up and good to go.

 

I do not know if the same can happen to the clutch pedal on the left side.

 

The only adjustment for the clutch pedal is the rod going back to the spring location. It just changes the pedal location to suit a short or tall operator.

 

Garry

[peter lena 9,002]

here is your spring , https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/toro/108035?gclid=cj0kcqiayjobbhdcarisajg2h5cf7biygdnyolapzglu2sfwjyeu-5xbofwfzmdtxjusyj1kidfboveaai4zealw_wcb  , use that # 108035, on the net or related crossover # at your local h/w store , your spring is a mess , as I also  said , LUBRICATE ANY RELATED MOVEMENT RELATED AREAS, I regularly see frozen rust and related neglect on movement areas , this is not difficult , pete

[Bcmedic85 12]

Ok guys finally had some time to get it apart think I found the culprit for the clutch pedal the gas strut is totally worn out. And the drive belt got a better look at it doesn’t have any markings on it anywhere so it may not even be the correct belt for the mower as well. Checked the pulleys they seemed fine to me and greased everything I could. And the return spring for the clutch pedal you guys think I should just put a new one on it, the bad gas cylinder had it stretched out pretty bad for who knows how long. Attached some pictures. Also does anyone known what gear oil to use in the rear end plan on doing a pm service on the mower as well. 

[DennisThornton 4,770]

You found it! 

90-140w

If you drain out milk check the shifter boot. 

[Bcmedic85 12]

Thanks @DennisThornton appreciate you guys and all the help!

[Tuneup 1,433]

I don't know if you are in the process of moving it out of the way but that belt is improperly routed on that pulley as shown. If the belt is the proper length, the pedal will come up to where it belongs. It also appears to not be a fiber coated belt and, if so, will grab pretty hard when it's engaged. I get nice wheelies on my '76. The return spring is toast...

[Handy Don 13,131]

1 hour ago, Tuneup said:

The return spring is toast...

I'd question it even being the right spring in the first place! But that's academic. Toast it is.

[DennisThornton 4,770]

 

The only one I had to fiddle with was STRONG!  I really don't think that is the correct spring.

New spring and rubber belts and you'll be popping wheelies!

[Bcmedic85 12]

Thanks guys waiting on the new belt to come in. Anyone know the part number on the correct return spring? @Tuneup I moved the belt to take everything apart, but I think you’re correct I don’t think it is the correct one for the machine either. 

[Bcmedic85 12]

Ok new issue got the new strut on and the new belt, now the bracket that goes to the clutch pedal isn’t grabbing the shaft that comes out of the transmission. It looks like it has either a drive pin that goes threw it or maybe a very small set screw. Any have any experience with this?

[pfrederi 18,211]

Spirol pin 5/32 x 1-1/4

[Bcmedic85 12]

9 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Spirol pin 5/32 x 1-1/4

Do you drive it out with a punch?

[pfrederi 18,211]

Best to use a roll pin punch but I guess any punch that fits is worth a try

[Bcmedic85 12]

Ok I’ll try an find one to get. Any idea on what would cause it to slip on the shaft when you depress the pedal? Didn’t do that until I put the new clutch gas piston on

[DennisThornton 4,770]

55 minutes ago, Bcmedic85 said:

Ok I’ll try an find one to get. Any idea on what would cause it to slip on the shaft when you depress the pedal? Didn’t do that until I put the new clutch gas piston on

There was no resistance before.  Probably just some rust holding the pedal to the shaft.  Drift the pin out and put a nail in to try it out.  If all is working then drive your new roll pin in.

[pfrederi 18,211]

1 minute ago, DennisThornton said:

There was no resistance before.  Probably just some rust holding the pedal to the shaft.  Drift the pin out and put a nail in to try it out.  If all is working then drive your new roll pin in.

Good Idea!!!!

[Bcmedic85 12]

1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

There was no resistance before.  Probably just some rust holding the pedal to the shaft.  Drift the pin out and put a nail in to try it out.  If all is working then drive your new roll pin in.

@DennisThornton thank you I will give that a try, should the new roll pin be an oem one? Or will any one due that fits?

[pfrederi 18,211]

A regular roll pin would probably last you for many years

[DennisThornton 4,770]

 

Don't get too concerned about OEM.  Often that can mean repackaged and then overpriced.  Wheel Horse bought the roll pins from elsewhere and you can too.  But all you need now is a nail.

[Bill D 2,060]

You can use a regular roll pin there if you don't have a spirol pin.  I used a roll pin with a cotter pin thru it.  It strengthens it and keeps the pin from coming out.  Bill