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CB1993

Chipped Pulley

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CB1993

Can anyone tell me if this chip is bad enough to cause any issues with my mower deck? Does anyone have a replacement pulley for sale? Thanks 

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ebinmaine

If you filed it to put a chamfer on the inside of the chip you might be able to get away with that for a bit... IIFF the belt running around it is at a straight shot with no angle to the pulley. 

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peter lena

cb1993,  I would not run that , typically deck pulleys have belt bounce related problems , while I agree with ebinmaine above on an  attempted save , you have the time now, till spring to get a replacement. look on internet or related w/h parts sites , if you can pick up a couple of them , you will have a spare , pete

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Pullstart

What deck did it come from, I may have a spare.  

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CB1993
4 minutes ago, pullstart said:

What deck did it come from, I may have a spare.  

I'm really not sure there is no model number on the deck. 

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SylvanLakeWH

For the cost of a pulley, I’d replace... shredded belt will cost as much or more in trouble...

 

@pullstart’s option or a want add in the classifieds...

 

:twocents-02cents:

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pacer

Bit different experience here ..... I've run/used pulleys like that on several occasions with no problems --FWIW

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Ed Kennell

Know any good cast iron welders?      Clamp a bar of brass in the groove and weld it up.   Grind the OD and bottom side back to shape.

 

What is the pulley number# ?  I may also have one.

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Joe Warren

I have a NOS 106849. contact me at joeww121@gmail.com if interested.

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DennisThornton

If I had to finish the lawn I'd do as Eric said and chamfer off the sharp edges OR I would heat it up and either braze or nickel rod arc it and then cool it slowly in ashes.  Grind the belt side and forget it.  Otherwise I'd chase down another pulley.

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JoeM

Put the old belt on and run it.....nothing to loose!

I have seen worse. 

(but if someone is giving you one) take it !

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DennisThornton
9 minutes ago, bcgold said:

Silver solder.

 

 

https://youtu.be/s7f9AhvDtHU

 

A bit of a rant first...  I wish the world could get together on the terms Braze VS Solder.  Surprised the Muggyweld isn't more clear.  It's a pet peeve of mine because I spent many hours researching for a project and the terms misuse cost me time and money.

 

The basic difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature necessary to melt the filler metal. ... If the filler metal melts below 840ºF the process being performed is soldering. Above that temperature, the process is brazing.

Plumbing: TechCorner - Soldering and Brazing Explained

 
Solder means your propane torch probably will work.  Brazing means it probably won't.  The product in the vid 
  • Flows in all positions at 1150°F
I silver braze stainless for color match and brass for strength at a temp lower than its melting point.  Otherwise I'm just welding, brass rod brazing or soldering because Silver is expensive whether solder or braze.

 

Rant over.  Sorry.

 

This product will certainly work, but so will regular brazing rod IF you have an Oxy assisted torch.  Heck, JB weld will probably work especially if some 1/8" holes with some rod were added for reinforcement.  Very little strength is needed!  Might not even need the holes and rod.  

 

Ideally just replace it.  Or ignore it.  Might later have to kick yourself when the bill for a new pulley also includes a belt.  

 

As i type I'm beginning to think I just might JB weld it just to see if it would work.  And when I say JB, I really mean any good epoxy.  I have no JB stocks.

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

A bit of a rant first...  I wish the world could get together on the terms Braze VS Solder

 

6 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Rant over.  Sorry.

One should never apologize when one is correct. 

 

Industry standards should be held. 

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daveoman1966

First...106849 is NOT the right pulley...it is for a 48" deck.  Your deck is 36".  The correct pulley is # 8392 and can be had here for about $30.  However, you'd be ok to use a Dremel tool or round file to put a radius on the INNER flange to preclude belt damage. 

The replacement pulley MAY be stamped steel...not sure. 

FOOTNOTE: If pulley 'balance' is your concern, just make an equal-size chip in the opposite side of the pulley...then apply the Dremel tool or round file as above.  

 

https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO#/Toro_Consumer/5-2365%2c_36"_Side_Discharge_Mower%2c_1970/Parts_List_For_5-7362__5-2365_Rotary_Mowers/5a06cd50-bed2-4591-8ebf-350484965959/0cf63a57-ac39-4b39-bce1-5445ce873104

 

Edited by daveoman1966
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DennisThornton
18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

One should never apologize when one is correct. 

 

Industry standards should be held. 

Yeah, but I was getting off topic.  It did really cause me a lot of grief a few years back and left a bit a sore spot.  And I think it still causes grief when someone thinks "I can use that!  It's solder!  I've soldered before!"  And then it never melts!  Because it's NOT solder!  And they don't have a torch that gets hot enough to braze!  There IS Silver Solder!  And there IS Silver Braze!  Ummm.  Starting to rant again...

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71_Bronco

Id replace it. No idea if it will hurt the belt, but I assume you have time to get one before spring.

 

There's a couple people in the classifieds with double-D pulleys, or you could try Lincon at A-Z Tractors.

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Lee1977
11 hours ago, CB1993 said:

Can anyone tell me if this chip is bad enough to cause any issues with my mower deck? Does anyone have a replacement pulley for sale? Thanks 

20210206_071605.jpg

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I have a drive pulley on my C-120 that I had a piece brazed back on. If you don't have the piece you could file a round edge at the broke area and use it. Don't think you would notice any difference.

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BeninCT

I bet a tube of JB Weld would make that last forever.  prob get a new one but nothing to lose as others have stated

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bc.gold

 

 

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