WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #76 Posted February 7, 2021 9 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: @953 nut , @WVHillbilly520H , @ebinmaine , @squonk, and anybody else with a hydro... Please take a look at these 2 videos...tell me what you think. In one video you can hear a squeal, and the other sounds a little quieter. The quieter video is after I had ran the hydraulic cylinder through a few cycles. Does these noises seem normal...air needs to work its way out ? Guess maybe that whine is normal when the cylinder reaches the end of its stroke ? 20210206_151738.mp4 38.13 MB · 0 downloads 20210206_151001.mp4 44.56 MB · 0 downloads Sounds just like my 2 unmolested ones. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,229 #77 Posted February 7, 2021 11 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Guess maybe that whine is normal when the cylinder reaches the end of its stroke ? Just the pressure relief valve in your valve body doing its job. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #79 Posted February 7, 2021 3 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said: Sounds just like my 2 unmolested ones. 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: Just the pressure relief valve in your valve body doing its job. 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: Thanks for the reassurance. It made the same noise(only louder) before I went through the hydraulic system. I guess it was fussing at me because that little (8/32nds) screw and washer that holds the retainer cap was missing. One more thing... I will now watch and check for any leaks over the next few weeks. I have heard that I may get a little seepage at the swivels on the flexible hydraulic lines. (I replaced the flexible lines)Have any of you had this occur ? ( I don't want seepage if I don't have to have seepage ) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #80 Posted February 7, 2021 9 hours ago, lynnmor said: Sounds normal to me, you are just maxing out the pressure when the cylinder hits the stops. Hopefully you have the screw under the cap set correctly. Thanks @lynnmor , I didn't really mess with that screw...just lightly turned it with my fingers a smidge to see if it moved, then put it back where it was. Should be okay. I was surfing YouTube yesterday and seen a young man with a Wheel Horse that wouldn't lift his rototiller on the back. He just grabbed a 7/32nds allen wrench and cranked it in 2 turns. Hopefully he doesn't end up wrecking his transmission. I was under the impression that the screw/ pressure had to be adjusted with the use of gauges (if I understand the Eaton manual correctly). But his tractor did lift the tiller after his "adjustment"... guess time will tell as far as possible transmission damage... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #81 Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) @lynnmor I didn't tag you in the post with the videos because you had mentioned something about videos buffering on your phone or computer/ maybe weak signal ?????? And they're aggravating... Anyways, I'm glad you watched and gave your thoughts... I am getting well acquainted with my 520H. Edited February 7, 2021 by Horse Newbie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #82 Posted February 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: @lynnmor I didn't tag you in the post with the videos because you had mentioned something about videos buffering on your phone or computer/ maybe weak signal ?????? And they're aggravating... Anyways, I'm glad you watched and gave your thoughts... I am getting well acquainted with my 520H. At home I use a laptop 95% of the time, it is only when I am away that I run into problems with the phone. Currently I have the "cellular update failed" problem once again. It is just Apples way of jamming the blasted thing to sell a new one. Yes, I followed all their nonsense advice before and there is no real way to make it work over time, its pay up or shut up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #83 Posted February 7, 2021 7 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Thanks for the reassurance. It made the same noise(only louder) before I went through the hydraulic system. I guess it was fussing at me because that little (8/32nds) screw and washer that holds the retainer cap was missing. One more thing... I will now watch and check for any leaks over the next few weeks. I have heard that I may get a little seepage at the swivels on the flexible hydraulic lines. (I replaced the flexible lines)Have any of you had this occur ? ( I don't want seepage if I don't have to have seepage ) They make the same noise in the UK too! From your videos, you are making a beautiful job of your rebuild. I like your double arm rock shaft, that would seem to be an excellent development, I'm now thinking about stripping mine down and welding a second arm on. It's always a good idea to support any sort of trunnion or pin under twisting tension on both sides so that it's a straight pull. (I built a kit car many years ago which ate clutch cables until I realised why...). I think the same goes for the down pressure bar. With the double arm rock shaft, a single down pressure member would be fine provided the pin through the blade is supported both sides, either with a fork on the bar or a double arm on the blade. Alternatively a single arm rock shaft and a double down pressure bar bolted through top and bottom would also work. A down pressure bar never occurred to me for my blade, but I think it is an excellent idea. We buy a lot of road chippings for the stable yard and pushing them around with my C175 was no easy task...I am sure a down pressure bar would have made a major difference. Now have a JCB 3cx for that job so it' no longer much of an issue! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #84 Posted February 8, 2021 19 hours ago, lynnmor said: Sounds normal to me, you are just maxing out the pressure when the cylinder hits the stops. Hopefully you have the screw under the cap set correctly. Thanks @lynnmor , I didn't really mess with that screw...just lightly turned it with my fingers a smidge to see if it moved, then put it back where it was. Should be okay. I was surfing YouTube yesterday and seen a young man with a Wheel Horse that wouldn't lift his rototiller on the back. He just grabbed a 7/32nds allen wrench and cranked it in 2 turns. Hopefully he doesn't end up wrecking his transmission. I was under the impression that the screw/ pressure had to be adjusted with the use of gauges (if I understand the Eaton manual correctly). But his tractor did lift the tiller after his "adjustment"... guess time will tell as far as possible transmission damage... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #85 Posted February 8, 2021 Thanks @Damien Walker...the more I do, the more I want to do. I am going to leave the original paint as much as possible. The parts in red that need paint I am doing on Rustoleum Regal Red. I am actually surprised at how good of shape it is in. It was sitting outside when I bought it in 2017. Put it in the storage building until about Oct. 2020. Since then I have replaced carb, new coil, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, plugs, hydraulic oil, hydraulic filter, fuel line, fuel pump, fuel pet cock, fuse block, hour meter, new battery, new battery box, rear tire, two front tires, front wheel bearings and seals, powder coated all 4 rims and hub caps, adjusted valves, painted muffler after patching 2 holes, rebuilt hydraulic control valve and hydraulic cylinder, rewired charging circuit, rewired ignition circuit, cleaned all wire terminals and applied dielectric grease, painted foot rests and redone the foot tread pads, all gauge light bulbs, painted front grille Rustoleum Satin Black, new bushings on motion lever and hydraulic lever shafts, resealed intake manifold... Man talk about getting off topic...you said " beautiful job", and off I went... Sorry guys... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,500 #86 Posted February 8, 2021 6 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Man talk about getting off topic...you said " beautiful job", and off I went... Sorry guys At least you're still on "tractor". Some of us have been kno SQUIRREL!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pokk 4 #87 Posted October 9, 2023 Hi, I read your threats. I was wondering if someone could please tell me. How can I drain/fill/add hydraulic oil for 312H and what kind of oil should I use. Mine, the pump doe snot leak but suddenly would not lift the mover deck. I suspect a 25 fuse has blown after the 15 fuse was replaced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #88 Posted October 9, 2023 8 hours ago, Pokk said: Hi, I read your threats. I was wondering if someone could please tell me. How can I drain/fill/add hydraulic oil for 312H and what kind of oil should I use. Mine, the pump doe snot leak but suddenly would not lift the mover deck. I suspect a 25 fuse has blown after the 15 fuse was replaced. The information is in the owners manual available here. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #89 Posted October 9, 2023 14 hours ago, Pokk said: Hi, I read your threats. I was wondering if someone could please tell me. How can I drain/fill/add hydraulic oil for 312H and what kind of oil should I use. Mine, the pump doe snot leak but suddenly would not lift the mover deck. I suspect a 25 fuse has blown after the 15 fuse was replaced. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission casing....beware, it can be VERY tight, so you must use the proper tool. You should have a dipstick to allow you to monitor the oil level (visible under the seat) and you can do a quick check on the quality of the oil just by looking at the oil on the dipstick. If it looks like honey or syrup it is fine, if it black, rust coloured or likes like an emulsion change it! There won't be any showing if it is empty of course, but you may only need to top it up rather than drain it and replace. It is refilled through the dipstick tube, but this will airlock very easily, so it is best to fill using a long syringe down the dipstick tube directly into the transmission, rather than using a funnel to pour it down the dipstick tube. The Wheelhorse hydrostatic transmission is completely mechanical, there are no electrical connections and so a blown fuse will not affect any of the hydraulic operations on the tractor. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pokk 4 #90 Posted October 9, 2023 7 hours ago, Damien Walker said: There is a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission casing....beware, it can be VERY tight, so you must use the proper tool. You should have a dipstick to allow you to monitor the oil level (visible under the seat) and you can do a quick check on the quality of the oil just by looking at the oil on the dipstick. If it looks like honey or syrup it is fine, if it black, rust coloured or likes like an emulsion change it! There won't be any showing if it is empty of course, but you may only need to top it up rather than drain it and replace. It is refilled through the dipstick tube, but this will airlock very easily, so it is best to fill using a long syringe down the dipstick tube directly into the transmission, rather than using a funnel to pour it down the dipstick tube. The Wheelhorse hydrostatic transmission is completely mechanical, there are no electrical connections and so a blown fuse will not affect any of the hydraulic operations on the tractor. Good luck! Thank you for providing good knowledge on hydrostatic transmission oil! How about the hydraulic pump - does it take oil from the transmission or does it have its own oil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pokk 4 #91 Posted October 9, 2023 13 hours ago, lynnmor said: The information is in the owners manual available here. Wow, it is a complete one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #92 Posted October 10, 2023 18 hours ago, Pokk said: Thank you for providing good knowledge on hydrostatic transmission oil! How about the hydraulic pump - does it take oil from the transmission or does it have its own oil? There is only one pump and only one reservoir. The transmission case is the reservoir and the pump, which sits immediately behind the transmission drive belt pulley, provides oil to the transmission system and the hydraulic lift. In the later 5xi models fitted with power steering (and my power steering equipped 518H!), the steering is also supplied by the same pump/reservoir. The only tractors that have separate pumps and oil supplies that I am aware of, are those fitted with a front end loader. This is simply because the volume of oil required would quickly exhaust the transmission reservoir. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
