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Raposo

My Homemade Mid Mount Grader - Lets See Yours

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bds1984

I made a similar belly blade a few years ago out of a 42" plow.   I cut the blade height down quite a bit and then welded on six inches to each side to achieve the 54" width. Here is the thread: 

 

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squonk

Looks like my blade build was yanked due to photobucket picture purge :(

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ebinmaine
31 minutes ago, squonk said:

photobucket

:ranting:

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Raposo

I thought about widening mine! I’m going to see how it does at 42” and go from there. Very similar concept tho!

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Raposo

Here’s some more progress pics. Next up is weld that tube steel to the top of the cut blade to stiffen it all up. Then start working on the rear mounts. I’m going to try to keep the a frame as parallel to the ground as possible. 

A97E2C39-A203-4ED9-A215-3F6CEDE23D1C.jpeg

7D800C5F-C283-4B38-8686-357E3FFBCC0E.jpeg

E8B95FA4-01A8-4B38-B3BD-F208B72BF3A7.jpeg

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DennisThornton

There was another thread that commented about the differences and preferences of the front attached pull mid-mount vs the rear attached pushed mid-mount.  I can see how some forces would be handled differently.

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WVHillbilly520H
1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

There was another thread that commented about the differences and preferences of the front attached pull mid-mount vs the rear attached pushed mid-mount.  I can see how some forces would be handled differently.

IMO, the rear axle version would be like a snow plow, adding traction as it puts the forces from the blade to the rear axle, unlike the mid point mount dragging from the frame, again just an opinion no real world experiences with a mid grade blade.

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Ed Kennell

I would expect a pushed blade would tend to cut in more than a pulled blade.    The lower anchor point of the rear axle bracket is probably better than the much higher mid mount.

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DennisThornton
34 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I would expect a pushed blade would tend to cut in more than a pulled blade.    The lower anchor point of the rear axle bracket is probably better than the much higher mid mount.

Don't know. 

I only have a mid-mount for an XI which I have yet to even mount.

I wonder, in addition to where the blade is mounted, the effects of:

A:  the forward angle of the blade, relative to the ground

B:  the angle of the blade frame support to the tractor.

C:  how the mount could affect the steering

D:  how the mount could affect its performance, dig in, level, not bounce

 

I suspect the angle to the ground are the same and the angle to the tractor similar but I still don't know.  I suspect if there was any effect on steering there would be less for the rear mount.  For some reason, I'd think the rear mount would be more rugged and stable.  Don't know but did WH/Toro replace the front with the rear mount?  Simpler?  Cheaper to make?  Better?  Or did they continue to offer both?

 

I only have one even though I've bought everyone I've ever seen!  Looks like I'll have to make another one.  I've got a hacked snow blade angle and frame and a long road grader blade waiting for me.

 

 

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

IMO, the rear axle version would be like a snow plow, adding traction as it puts the forces from the blade to the rear axle, unlike the mid point mount dragging from the frame, again just an opinion no real world experiences with a mid grade blade.

For rear-axle mount, resistance to the blade will apply force rearward and upward through the grader frame, reducing rear traction. Due to the slightly steeper angle, the loss of traction would be a bit worse than from a snowplow--probably not noticable. The same force causes the blade to "dig in". Better for scraping?

For front-attach mount, resistance transmitted through the grader frame tends to pull down on the front of the tractor improving front traction. The same force causes the blade to lift up. Better for smoothing?

 

@DennisThornton, you are right the angle of the blade's cutting edge matters, too. If "top back" it'll dig in easier (scraping); if "top forward" it'll float easier (smoothing).

 

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Ed Kennell
4 hours ago, Raposo said:

I’m going to try to keep the a frame as parallel to the ground as possible. 

It is the height of the anchor point that determines the angle to of force to the ground.     The only way to get the angle of force parallel to the ground is to lower the anchor point on the axle bracket.

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wallfish

The scraper bar on there has a brand new edge on the top. Just flip it over for a nice new flat edge for the bottom.

I can see some advantages of being able to adjust the blade tilt. Back to cut in, forward to smooth. Looks fairly easy to make a couple of adjustment arms for that. :twocents-02cents:

Edited by wallfish
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WVHillbilly520H
43 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

For rear-axle mount, resistance to the blade will apply force rearward and upward through the grader frame, reducing rear traction. Due to the slightly steeper angle, the loss of traction would be a bit worse than from a snowplow--probably not noticable. The same force causes the blade to "dig in". Better for scraping?

For front-attach mount, resistance transmitted through the grader frame tends to pull down on the front of the tractor improving front traction. The same force causes the blade to lift up. Better for smoothing?

 

@DennisThornton, you are right the angle of the blade's cutting edge matters, too. If "top back" it'll dig in easier (scraping); if "top forward" it'll float easier (smoothing).

 

From my experiences with Cub Cadet and WH front snow/dozer blades , the WH also performed better (equipped tire/weight) in similar/same conditions traction wise, the biggest difference was the mounting points, CC sub frame attached to front/mid frame and WH of course to the rear axle, so that is how I came to my conclusions, I know not very scientific.

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DennisThornton
29 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

From my experiences with Cub Cadet and WH front snow/dozer blades , the WH also performed better (equipped tire/weight) in similar/same conditions traction wise, the biggest difference was the mounting points, CC sub frame attached to front/mid frame and WH of course to the rear axle, so that is how I came to my conclusions, I know not very scientific.

Off topic so I don't want to go on and on here but, I have a Cub 147 that needs a task and I'm wondering what your experience is.  We can start a new thread.

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WVHillbilly520H
53 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Off topic so I don't want to go on and on here but, I have a Cub 147 that needs a task and I'm wondering what your experience is.  We can start a new thread.

As you can see here IHCC had a mid grader true to being a "grader"...

Screenshot_20210124-205856.png

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

As you can see here IHCC had a mid grader true to being a "grader"...

Screenshot_20210124-205856.png

Wow, that is very neat. Not homemade and WH, but way to set the bar high! 

Ever seen one? Know where to find one?

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WVHillbilly520H
7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Wow, that is very neat. Not homemade and WH, but way to set the bar high! 

Ever seen one? Know where to find one?

Nope, just that pic.

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littleredrider

I got looking at a grader blades years ago, and noticed that the A-frame looked just like the A-frame for a Lawn Ranger. I bought a ranger (or what's left of one lol) for parts and got the snow plow, when I get my garage up I wanna look deeper into it. I think that might be a step closer to building one from scratch, just need to figure the pivot. 

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WVHillbilly520H

1 I gleaned from marketplace...

Screenshot_20210123-201748.png

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