Cutting 8-speed seals

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Don't let that fool you. Some of Toro's part numbers are only 4 digits long because they go back so far.

Like the 3577 dust covers on the trans

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

10 minutes ago, bcgold said:

AAiii hope to avoid that.

[ebinmaine 67,717]

Just now, Maxwell-8 said:

number

At the top of the transmission section there is a bearing in seal cross reference that will give you at least a couple part numbers for different manufacturers such as Toro, SKF, National, whatever.

 

[ebinmaine 67,717]

I'm pretty confident that given enough patience and time and appropriate tooling such as a small Dremel as a grinder your hub will come off. Even if it's welded on both sides, there are some interesting shaped bits for the little Dremel grinders that you can get a hold of.

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

SKF

We can get SKF seals! Hard to find but possible. thanks Again.

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

I'm pretty confident that given enough patience and time and appropriate tooling such as a small Dremel as a grinder your hub will come off. Even if it's welded on both sides, there are some interesting shaped bits for the little Dremel grinders that you can get a hold of.

 

Like their cutting discs that come flying around your ears hahaha. 

They have quite some nice stuff.

 

I will try to get them off tomorrow, Pics and maybe a video will be up tomorrow!

[bc.gold 3,403]

6 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

 

We don't have those places here, and the dealers are doing difficult, went by there today and they need a number, they couldn't find the number on their computer

 

Yellow pages, bearing supply.

[stevasaurus 22,769]

Maxwell, the # 100863 is the new Wheel Horse part number for that seal.  It equates to SKF # 9815.  

[bc.gold 3,403]

12 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

AAiii hope to avoid that.

 

Removing welded hub topic posted, May 11/2020

[ebinmaine 67,717]

14 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

cutting discs that come flying around your ears

I do try to avoid that. 

Be sure to wear a full suit of pillows top to bottom. 

[ebinmaine 67,717]

13 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Maxwell, the # 100863 is the new Wheel Horse part number for that seal.  It equates to SKF # 9815.  

You're alright Steve. 

 

Maxwell take that SKF number to any parts store. 

Shouldn't be too hard to get because Wheelhorse used mostly "Standard parts". 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The plug on the lower left side won't actually allow enough fluid to sit 

The raider was filled that way, and that may explain the metal shavings

[Skipper 1,788]

On the welded hubs part of it. A metal burr might be able to dig the weld out, if it is on the outside, which I would guess it is.

 

Cutting the seals and hoping for them to not leak, might be a wishful hope. Wouldn't count on it holding up.

 

I do if all goes wrong, have both 1" and 1 1/8" trannys and parts on stock, and seals for 1-1/8", but the 1" seals is not on stock until may. 

[ebinmaine 67,717]

12 minutes ago, Skipper said:

1" seals

How long does it take to get things from here?

[Skipper 1,788]

Not that long if you send direct, but to keep freight and import fees realistic, it goes in a container and hitches a ride that way, alongside a bunch of tractors and implements and what other things people want brought over. Only way to keep it realistic.

 

Taxes we have to pay, but the fees are killing it on these small shipments.

Edited January 21, 2021 by Skipper

[Greentored 3,216]

17 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

@Greentored Scott has been tossing around the idea of making these.

 

I absolutely plan to start making hubs, as they do seem to be getting harder to find, especially in good shape without keyways beat all to crap.

Id like to see how those hub centers would hold up- a 'slice' of steel disc could be welded to those and bolt pattern drilled.

Im also not against making them out of one solid piece and purchasing a broach....

[ebinmaine 67,717]

5 minutes ago, Greentored said:

I absolutely plan to start making hubs, as they do seem to be getting harder to find, especially in good shape without keyways beat all to crap.

Id like to see how those hub centers would hold up- a 'slice' of steel disc could be welded to those and bolt pattern drilled.

Im also not against making them out of one solid piece and purchasing a broach....

I'm certainly no expert at purchasing steel. Seems to me it would be less expensive to purchase the hub piece and the flange pieces separately then weld the 3 together.

But of course there's a welding cost there that would not be involved if one single piece was the beginning. 

[Greentored 3,216]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm certainly no expert at purchasing steel. Seems to me it would be less expensive to purchase the hub piece and the flange pieces separately then weld the 3 together.

But of course there's a welding cost there that would not be involved if one single piece was the beginning. 

Agreed. As long as those steel 'hubs' are thick enough to hold up and not split.  Machining a one piece hub would be awesome, but the time required....ugh.

[bc.gold 3,403]

4 hours ago, Greentored said:

Agreed. As long as those steel 'hubs' are thick enough to hold up and not split.  Machining a one piece hub would be awesome, but the time required....ugh.

 

Cast iron is brittle while steel is malleable.

 

With a pattern, I could cast that hub as a one piece part.

 

I own the same induction furnace and it will melt 10 pounds of metal in less than five minutes.

 

 

 

Edited January 21, 2021 by bcgold

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

Men, those freaking hubs, they are welded bad, but with deep penetration, My opinion: axle and hub SHOT.

After the 2100w Angle grinder: 

 

ON pics, it looks like it might work but in person, no

[bc.gold 3,403]

1 hour ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Men, those freaking hubs, they are welded bad, but with deep penetration, My opinion: axle and hub SHOT.

After the 2100w Angle grinder: 

 

ON pics, it looks like it might work but in person, no

 

When you figure the weld has been ground thin, push the hub further onto the axle. Cast iron does not weld very good and the remaining weld should break free then you can clean up the axle to remove the hub.

 

When you have the time can you give me the measurement of the piece that fits inside the wheel rim center also the bolt circle would be handy to know as well, thanks.

 

Edited January 21, 2021 by bcgold

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,060]

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-100863/

 

This is for 1" diameter axles. 9815 is the SKF/CR number

http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=9815

 

Garry

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

On 1/21/2021 at 8:24 PM, bcgold said:

When you figure the weld has been ground thin, push the hub further onto the axle. Cast iron does not weld very good and the remaining weld should break free then you can clean up the axle to remove the hub.

 

When you have the time can you give me the measurement of the piece that fits inside the wheel rim center also the bolt circle would be handy to know as well, thanks.

Coming tomorrow!

[stevasaurus 22,769]

Maxwell, you've got nothing to lose.  Grind the weld down to the end of the axle and maybe a touch more.  The weld should break loose then..maybe with a little heat.

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

On 1/22/2021 at 8:28 PM, stevasaurus said:

Maxwell, you've got nothing to lose.  Grind the weld down to the end of the axle and maybe a touch more.  The weld should break loose then..maybe with a little heat.

 

time to try it tomorrow, got a spare trans, so indeed nothing to loose.  Made myself a nice hub puller from a thick steel plate

 

And another small question: Can the outer axle bearing be replaced without splitting the case? Bought  spare, replaced the seals only to find out, it didn't had axle bearing on the right axle and moved a bit up and down. It did had one on the left side. 

 

Thanks!!!!

Edited January 27, 2021 by Maxwell-8