71_Bronco 1,072 #1 Posted January 14, 2021 So as you guys know, I have a Wisconsin S7D that I have put into my Lawn Ranger that I'm working on. I've started digging into the electrical and figuring out what I need. Attached is a description of how the wiring works, and the wiring diagram. I am 99% sure I have the "magneto ignition" as I don't have a separate ignition coil. That, plus I have a large wire coming out from behind the bearing plate, going up to the spark plug. I'm going to wire it per the diagram, where the engine is started with the push-button starting switch. The Wisconsin push-starter button bolted right into the hole on the tank support tower. The Wisconsin ammeter also fit perfectly in the hole in the Wheel Horse dash (as shown). I have 3 questions with all this in mind. 1.) I need a new "ground type stop switch", as the one I have is a little beat up. Does this switch self-ground to the tractor, and does not require a wire back to the negative terminal on the battery? If so, wouldn't it be a little safer to have a wire going back to the negative terminal? 2.) In reading the text, the "ground type switch" just converts the starter-generator between it's 2 roles. It does not look like that switch will "kill" the motor. Am I reading this correctly? 3A.) If the "ground type stop switch" does not "kill" the motor, how do I stop the motor? Is that what the little tab is for on the breaker box? I have attached a picture of the "tab" on the breaker box. 3B.) If 3A is correct, that the tab is what kills the motor, is there a way to wire up a switch so that when the switch is "open", the motor runs, and when the switch is "closed", the motor will be killed? Basically putting a switch in place of the tab? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #2 Posted January 14, 2021 Here's the dash / tower showing the ammeter and the starter button. I was going to put the switch in the hole right above the shift-pattern sticker. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #3 Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) Here's a pic of the broken "ground type stop switch". It actually pushes in and out, not a toggle. Looks like it has 2 terminals. When I bought the engine second-hand, it was already like this and I dont think it had any wires on the terminals. Edited January 14, 2021 by 71_Bronco Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,194 #4 Posted January 14, 2021 What was your original WH switch? How many terminals? And where was it located? Where does the red wire go from the circle? Where does the black wire go from the circle? Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,969 #5 Posted January 14, 2021 4 hours ago, 71_Bronco said: 1.) I need a new "ground type stop switch", as the one I have is a little beat up. Does this switch self-ground to the tractor, and does not require a wire back to the negative terminal on the battery? If so, wouldn't it be a little safer to have a wire going back to the negative terminal? The "Ground type stop switch" will ground the magneto to the engine block to stop the ignition from producing a spark. 2.) In reading the text, the "ground type switch" just converts the starter-generator between it's 2 roles. It does not look like that switch will "kill" the motor. Am I reading this correctly? Your voltage regulator will perform this function, the kill switch has nothing to do with it. 3A.) If the "ground type stop switch" does not "kill" the motor, how do I stop the motor? Is that what the little tab is for on the breaker box? I have attached a picture of the "tab" on the breaker box. Don't know what the tab does. Looking at your diagram this would be a second means of stopping the engine. 3B.) If 3A is correct, that the tab is what kills the motor, is there a way to wire up a switch so that when the switch is "open", the motor runs, and when the switch is "closed", the motor will be killed? Basically putting a switch in place of the tab? The tab and the switch are in parallel with one another and either one will perform the same function. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #6 Posted January 15, 2021 24 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: What was your original WH switch? How many terminals? And where was it located? Where does the red wire go from the circle? Where does the black wire go from the circle? Garry I'll have to double check where that red wire goes. I bought the tractor with a recoil start tecumseh. It had a kill switch located in one of the cable holes in the dash, as the tecumseh choke & throttle were controlled by the same cable. @953 nut, thanks for the answers. I was reading the description wrong, the push-button switch is the one that turns the generator into a starter, not the self grounding switch. For the "self grounding switch" would it be more reliable to connect a wire to the block itself or to the negative terminal? Instead of relying on the switch to ground in the hole of the gas tank tower? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,194 #7 Posted January 15, 2021 Wheel Horse used a similar application. Adding a solenoid allows the use of a common and economical ignition switch. If you go this route let me know and will change it to match your application. Garry 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #8 Posted January 17, 2021 Stopped at the local NAPA looking for paint on my way to the grocery store. Picked up this switch for the "ground type" switch. I know its not a self ground, but I dont mind running one extra wire. Had a choice between a 6 amp and a 15 amp. Since I didn't know the current, I went with the 15 amp option. Was the same price too, so win-win. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites