Can't get my 520H to go full speed

[520H4me 0]

I bought my 520H used. I had a new one many years ago - that one really moved when you pushed the motion lever all the way forward. My used/abused 520H goes about half speed. I looked under the seat as I moved the motion lever. I can see that the plate that moves under the seat when you move the motion lever only gets half way through it's range of movement when the lever is moved all the way forward. Any suggestions as to what I need to do to get full speed out of this beast? :omg:

[zieg72 209]

Take the bottom black plate off with the 4 phillips screws. You will probably find the heim joint 1/4" x 20 screw loose and slopping back and forth through the movement. Once you take the plate off you will see how it all works.

[dr74go 1]

I am still new at this, but I found the following problem with mine. The slot near the middle of the cam plate under the seat was partially filled with crud. I cleaned the crud from the slot and it would travel the full motion which increased the speed.

[wfopete 15]

There ya go! I always say start out with a clean horse & check the dumb stuff first especially when it comes to electrical problems. After days work in the fields I regularly give my horse a GENTLE bath with compressed air to dust off any debris and occasionally it will be followed by a wet bath, more GENTLE air to get rid off excess moisture then a brisk trot down the drive way and back with the blades engaged to shake off and displace more excess H2O. I person can do a lot of damage to their steed's bearings, hydo's and electricail parts with a pressure washer in the wrong places.

[papaglide 542]

Take the bottom black plate off with the 4 phillips screws. You will probably find the heim joint 1/4" x 20 screw loose and slopping back and forth through the movement. Once you take the plate off you will see how it all works.

Where is the bottom back plate? I may have this same problem and want to address it.

[Fiddlestix 0]

Take the bottom black plate off with the 4 phillips screws. You will probably find the heim joint 1/4" x 20 screw loose and slopping back and forth through the movement. Once you take the plate off you will see how it all works.

Where is the bottom back plate? I may have this same problem and want to address it.

The plate where the shifter would be if it were an 8 speed.

Also, please tell us which type of direction lever you have:

The Toro style that is up by the steering column and rotates on an axis similar to the steering column or...

The early version that has the long lever that rocks fore and aft and is attached to the mechanism under that shifter plate (just like earlier 300,400 and late C series).

[papaglide 542]

Thanks. I have the Toro style direction lever.

I have the plate off. The one thing that I noticed was the connecting bar from the steering column area has a slight bend in it about midway where it meets the connection to the bar coming from the back end. Is this normal?

[papaglide 542]

All the nuts in the linkage are nice and tight. The bar that comes from the lever shaft has a bend about halfway. Is this normal or should it be straight?

[Fiddlestix 0]

I believe it has a bend in it as designed.

This trans actuation is the same as other 300 and 400 hydros. It has been discussed here before (tho' I can't remember where... transmission forum?).

There is a friction adjustment on that cam plate under the seat. On mine it is either too tight and all the linkage and the added twist of the direction lever loses length and flexes without swinging the plate (hence hydro valve) fully to its limits. If I ease off the friction, then the lever won't stay put and the tractor speed falls off unless a hand is dedicated to holding it in place. I do not like this arrangement.

That said, you may find upon further searching thru threads here that it is said to use NO lubrication on that cam plate. I have donned my asbestos suit and am ready to get flamed here but I don't buy that thinking nor statement. I do agree do not lube near the friction adjuster. BUT, that is a sliding CAM that actuates the hydro valve arm. If you look at that eccentric adjustment, it can get severe flats worn on it or the cam plate groove will not be true. This causes loss of travel and it takes very little wear on those parts to lose valve travel. For this reason I use a clinging style of heavy EP grease in that cam slot.

Look further here and you will find discussion on adjusting the eccentric on that cam plate.

[papaglide 542]

Thanks Fiddlestix. I have been messing with that eccentric and haven't a clue as to where the optimum positioning of it should be. :D

[Fiddlestix 0]

Instructions from the Eaton 11 and WH trans service manual:

NEUTRAL

To test neutral adjustment tractor should be brought

to a stop from both directions on a level surface,

using Brake/Return to Neutral pedal. Once tractor is

stopped, release pedal. If tractor "creeps" in either

direction, neutral adjustment is necessary

1. If applicable, disconnect wiring as required and

remove seat and rear fender on early models

only (Fig. 12).

2. Support rear of tractor so both wheels are off

ground.

3. Start engine and run at full throttle. Move motion

control lever forward and wait for drive

train to reach normal operating temperature.

4. Depress brake pedal fully and release.

5. Slightly loosen lock bolt and turn large eccentric

with a wrench until rear wheels stop turning.

Turn eccentric in opposite direction. until

wheels start turning, then set eccentric mid-way

between these two positions.

6. Tighten lock bolt and retest for neutral, from

both directions, at full throttle.

FIG. 13. Neutral Adjustment

7. if tractor can not be neutralized in both directions

with eccentric, control rod .length should

be reset and neutral then re-adjusted:

A) Remove control cover plate (Fig. 14).

B ) Set parking brake.

C) Disconnect front end of control rod from

motion control arm.

D) Adjust position of cam plate so that right

edge of friction washer is even with right

end of slot in cam plate.

E) Adjust rod end on control rod so that bolt

enters hole in control arm exactly at a right

angle (square) to it.

F) If a satisfactory neutral still cannot be obtained,

check linkage for wear or damage.

8. After neutral has been set, check that motion

control lever is centered in notch of detent

spring. Spring has slotted bolt holes so it may

be adjusted to line up notch with lever. Belt

cover and control cover plate in front of seat

must be removed to make this adjustment.

9. If applicable, reinstall fender and seat. Reconnect

wiring.

This manual is a free down load from Toro.com

The eccentric really only adjusts the neutral: If you adjust it one way, you lose travel the other. But if the eccentric or cam profile is worn, then actuation profile is distorted and travel can be lost. Like a worn camshaft lobe... the lifter still reciprocates and timing of valve is OK... but valve lift is lost.

[papaglide 542]

Thanks. I will download that manual. I will adjust the eccentric.

When I was running the tractor before, I noticed that when the hydro lever was at max ROM forward, there was still about a 1/4 inch of space in the cam plate left for the eccentric to move in. Is that normal or should it be all the way tight to the end of the slot?

[Nick 13]

I have seen posts and also talked to people who say the early tractors were a little faster than later units. I believe the the 88-89 520HC was rated 6.5 mph, not sure about the straight axle 520, then the later swept axle 520-H were rated around 5.5 mph in some sales brochures. Not sure if that could be part of any noticeable difference in speed between tractors.

[papaglide 542]

[8. After neutral has been set, check that motion

control lever is centered in notch of detent

spring. Spring has slotted bolt holes so it may

be adjusted to line up notch with lever. Belt

cover and control cover plate in front of seat

must be removed to make this adjustment.

I think that this is missing from my tractor. :D

[Fiddlestix 0]

When I was running the tractor before, I noticed that when the hydro lever was at max ROM forward, there was still about a 1/4 inch of space in the cam plate left for the eccentric to move in. Is that normal or should it be all the way tight to the end of the slot?

I am of the mind that you need ALL that slot to get ALL the speed normally available. It appears you linkage is not allowing enough travel... perhaps the forward one that attaches to the direction lever.

[8. After neutral has been set, check that motion

control lever is centered in notch of detent

spring. Spring has slotted bolt holes so it may

be adjusted to line up notch with lever. Belt

cover and control cover plate in front of seat

must be removed to make this adjustment.

I think that this is missing from my tractor.

Ignore that step. That is the old style with the direction lever that comes up out of the "shifter plate".

Here's a maroon striper that has the old style fore/aft rocking lever:

These also have a disengageable hydro pump for starting and parking. Yours does not. The pump runs at all times.

You have the Toro style lever and this does not apply. Your corresponding "notch" is the Z slot that the "finger" that is pinned to the direction lever follows in. This is behind the battery. This pin or finger actuates the limit switch and forces the operator to push down on the lever in order to go in reverse. When that handle "pops" up after being in reverse and brake depressed, then that is your neutral with regards to the direction lever. You do have this finger or pin do you not? I can imagine if someone got wild they could have broken it off and this would set up problems with the saftey switch at that location. But of course, we have seen what many folks do with safety switches haven't we? Look back behind the battery (you don't need to remove it) and study what's happening there. :USA:

[papaglide 542]

I have the finger but there isn't any tension on the lever. What I mean is that there isn't any spring or anything keeping the finger(lever) in the up position. The lever wants to stay down. When I want to go forward, I have to lift up on the lever. Seems to me there should be a spring or something at the bottom of the shaft that keeps the lever in the up position.

I increased the length of the control rod from the lever to the ball joint that is hooked up to the rod that attached to the cam plate. The ROM is much closer to the limit of the slot now.

No tension on the lever doesn't quite seem right though.

Thanks for your help.

[Fiddlestix 0]

Absolutely, there is to be a spring at the very bottom of the lever where it rests on the plate at frame. This will keep lever in up position and will force you to press down on lever in order to go to rev.

Where does all this stuff go with these tractors? How does it get lost? :D

[papaglide 542]

I got the spring in place but while doing so I broke the starter safety switch that is screwed onto the little plate that the finger slides in fro forward and reverse. Does anyone know the name or part number of that little switch? I have been on the toro sight and I can't find it on the drawings there.

Also, is there supposed to be a 1/4 bolt IN the pathway that the finger rides in? Thus limiting the forward travel of the finger? I don't think so.....but please let me know for sure.

[Horse Fanatic 49]

I've had a couple hydros that didn't come up to full speed at the time I purchased them. On one, gobs of grass built up in the area of the linkage prevented the speed control lever from going fully forward. On another the linkage was way out of adjustment. Take the fender off and it should be apparent what is keeping the cam plate from reaching it's most forward position and adjust accordingly.

[papaglide 542]

Thanks Glen. I have the fender off and adjusted the length of the rod from the lever to the rod from the cam plate. I took the nut off out of the finger slot. The lever advances farther now than it did yesterday. I will find out tomorrow if this worked.

By the way I never posted any pic of this $400 rust bucket..I mean BEAUTY

The frame is nice and rust free, just a lot of surface rust. Another problem, a surging Onan through out the whole throttle range. Any suggestions?

[Horse Fanatic 49]

That sure is surface rusty, it might be cheaper in the long run and definitely easier to pick up some nicer sheetmetal. People are selling must less rusty ones regularly on ebay.

Surging engine is a dirty carb or a carb jet adjustment. If you can't smooth it out by adjusting it, you don't have to remove the carb from the engine, just take the top off and clean the bowl and passages out with carb cleaner, soft wire and/or compressed air.

The cam plate won't have to move much more forward to get more speed out of it. If it travels to it's limit forward, you should be all set.

Glenn

[papaglide 542]

Thanks Glenn.

Yesterday I bought both side panels and both footrests. They should be here sometime this week. From pics I saw of them, they sure looked good: hardly any rust and just faded paint. The footrests had all the rubber on them as well.

Can't wait to get that stuff.

[Crawdad 5]

I am new owner of a wheelhorse. I have an '97 H20. I needed to adjust my neutral because the tractor was lurching forward when I was starting.

I followed the directions in the Eaton manual and got the neutral all set, then when I set it down off the jacks,

it would not start- the panel lights reading a motion lever error and the pump light not on.

I moved the lever through its range and could not get the starter to crank, tried to reset hydro again, but no success.

What the heck could I have done wrong?? anyone had this issue before?

[can whlvr 993]

is there a neutral switch on the lever,im not familular with that model,just thinking aloud

[Crawdad 5]

There is no neutral switch, to go forward you push the lever forward, to reverse you press the lever down and then pull back.

neutral is acheived by pressing the brake pedal or moving the lever to the center position.

Thanks for your reply, I hope I can get it to start again before we get our next foot of snow....