C-160 help please

[Todd M 12]

A neighbor gave me a c-160 automatic and seeing that I only have 20 or 30 other projects ongoing I thought it would be nice to have a rototiller and I got busy tearing it apart.  The exhaust valve was stuck, really stuck, and after finally getting it out I tore the rest of the motor apart and started taking measurements.   My fingers were crossed because after making tons of calls I found that there is not a shop around that will bore the block. I ended up at the wear limit max so I can go back with standard piston.  Today I dumped the trans fluid so I can finish disassembling the tractor and give it a fresh paint job. I had checked the oil level before and it looked good so I was surprised when a quart or two of water drained before the oil.  What was even more surprising was the oil level on the dipstick was on the low side so I am not sure how many years the oil has been contaminated.  My question to all of you is: 1, is it worth fixing?  What should I look for or what should I expect when inspecting the transmission? 

[Achto 27,622]

 

The C-160 is a great tractor. I would change the fluid and filter on the transmission. Note :  There is a hump on the inside of the tranny, you need to jack the front of the tractor in the air in order to get all of the fluid out. After you get the tractor running, drive it around for 20 to 30 min then do a fluid & filter change again. This should flush the system out well enough. If it makes you feel better you could repeat this process one more time. One more note : I recommend using a Wheel Horse, Wix, or Napa tranny filter. Fram would not be suggested, I have had too many issue with them.

 

 I refer to Fram as "Orange Death".

 

Feel free to post any questions that you may have.

[squonk 41,164]

Napa 1410 filter. That stuck exhaust valve may come back to haunt. Also, you may be on the edge on wear limit for the cylinder but it !an be out of round. You could quite possibly end up with an oil burner. I would either keep looking for a machine shop or another engine. A 14 HP should be easy to find. Where are you located?

[Todd M 12]

Thanks for the replies.  I am in Wa just across the river from Portland Or but try to avoid Portland as much as possible.   I am going to replace the valve guides, cylinder was .001 taper and .002 out of round at the top of the stroke measured with a mic and bore guage.  I did find one shop that may be able to do it but they are 5 mos out.  

 

Edited January 10, 2021 by Todd M

[oliver2-44 9,765]

You might check with some dirt bike shops in your area. That who I finally found to do one for me. 

[pacer 3,174]

I am in the same situation as you in that there is NO place to do small engine machine work in my area!

 

I have had .... 3? 4? single cyl that were quite marginal in wear but with some cking on parts I found the import rebuild kits were so reasonable and with these old engines really quite simple to work on .... well, I gambled on getting a kit and replacing piston/rings along with a little valve work and any other areas that need some TLC, and they turned out just fine. Granted they probably wont have a very long life span, but I was quite pleased that I stopped the smoking.

[953 nut 55,329]

I sent a Kohler block to this shop in New York State, they did a great job and were very good to work with. Call them first, the charge for a block is higher than a cylinder jug due to shipping weight. UPS one way was $ 65 from NC to NY.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Reconditioning-Cylinder-Boring-Honing-Service/193301073988

[daveoman1966 3,752]

I fully agree with Achto....C-160 is about the best Wheelhorse ever made. I have a 1975 C-160 Auto.  Inasmuch as you machine is of the same vintage, I'd suggest spending some time to refurb BOTH the Hydraulic PUMP and the Hyd MOTOR while getting the engine serviced. 

Not only has The C-160 set for years...it's approaching 45+ years old...no doubt in need of restoration.  This is NOT a difficult job at all...just  takes patience.   I can forward a narraive of how-to with pics to assist.  my direct email is:  daveoman@windstream.net.  

 

Just send me a note asking for the pics & .pdf file(s).     

[Todd M 12]

Thanks for everyone's response.  After calling another 6 shops I was finally able to find one to bore, hone and replace the valve guides.  Also thanks to Dave, I am going to rebuild the pump and trans as well, if I am going to screw it up I might as well go big!  

[rjg854 11,389]

You'll be fine, there's many here that can walk you through any snags you might come across. I'm not one of them though, I can only attest to the help I've gotten to any questions I had.

[Todd M 12]

I am sure there will be many snags! Is there anything else I should be doing since this is turning into a full rebuild? Rear axle bearings, seals etc?  I think I will send the hyd cylinder out to be rebuilt, it is a welded cylinder.  Looks like the bearings on the front wheel is shot so I will be replacing those.  

 

[Pullstart 62,922]

On 1/11/2021 at 6:14 PM, Todd M said:

I am sure there will be many snags! Is there anything else I should be doing since this is turning into a full rebuild? Rear axle bearings, seals etc?  I think I will send the hyd cylinder out to be rebuilt, it is a welded cylinder.  Looks like the bearings on the front wheel is shot so I will be replacing those.  

 

Anything else?  TAKE PICTURES!  LOTS OF THEM FOR REFERENCE!

 

Welded Cylinder:  Lowell @wheelhorseman rebuilds the welded cylinders for a fee.  He can be reached here through RedSquare or www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com

 

[Todd M 12]

THanks Pullstart, I was going to take it to a local shop but I dropped a cylinder off for repair off another project last month and they are 3 mos out, besides I like the idea of buying through people on this forum, it seems like it is a very helpful place!   I pulled the lift cylinder yesterday and will be sending it out this week.  Pump and Motor seal kit came yesterday so hopefully I will get going on it this week as well

[ebinmaine 67,695]

@Todd M

 

I'll put in another vote for the C160 being THE Wheelhorse to have. I have one running and one for future project time. 

 

Do a search on this forum for the term 

 

Baseline

 

Or 

 

Base line

 

There are lists of things we all do to a new-to-us machine. 

 

A thing amongst the many I'd recommend you pay close attention to is the wiring. Especially the GROUNDS. 

These are DC systems. No ground, no system. 

 

You'll have a fair pile of time investment in that tractor. It'll be worth every single second.

 

Good luck and please keep asking questions. There probably isn't one we haven't run across yet. 

 

 

[953 nut 55,329]

On 1/11/2021 at 6:14 PM, Todd M said:

I am sure there will be many snags! Is there anything else I should be doing since this is turning into a full rebuild? Rear axle bearings, seals etc?  I think I will send the hyd cylinder out to be rebuilt, it is a welded cylinder.  Looks like the bearings on the front wheel is shot so I will be replacing those.  

 

The most important thing you can do is ask lots of questions here. We have all made mistakes and would like to let you learn from our experience.

Like Kevin said, take lots of pictures and store them om a flash-drive labeled C-160 for easy retrieval. When you are removing a sub-assembly put all the bolts/nuts/spacers for that group in one container so the parts won't get mixed in with others. 

[Herder 2,354]

C-160 Hydro's are great machines, I've enjoyed mine from the day I brought it home.    

 

[Pullstart 62,922]

5 hours ago, Todd M said:

THanks Pullstart, I was going to take it to a local shop but I dropped a cylinder off for repair off another project last month and they are 3 mos out, besides I like the idea of buying through people on this forum, it seems like it is a very helpful place!   I pulled the lift cylinder yesterday and will be sending it out this week.  Pump and Motor seal kit came yesterday so hopefully I will get going on it this week as well

 

Not a problem 

 

Another tip, just for navigating here.  If you do the “at” sign you can tag somebody to alert them you’re talking to them.  @Todd M is different than Todd M just by that sign.

[ebinmaine 67,695]

14 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Another tip, just for navigating here.  If you do the “at” sign you can tag somebody to alert them you’re talking to them.  @Todd M is different than Todd M just by that sign

Yepp. 

Don't forget to scroll down and "select" the name.