richmondred01 2,237 #101 Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) Also. Very important : Make sure the hole in the rod cap is facing the cam..... Edited February 1, 2021 by richmondred01 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #102 Posted February 1, 2021 Gentlemen, stop your start watches! The engine went in for reboring today. So we will see how long it takes. The engineer said I coukd come see it on the boring machine when itsxset up in a few days. The exhaust valve is goosed so I ordered a new set from Kevin, hoping they will come just as quick as the other parts. Mick 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #103 Posted February 1, 2021 5 hours ago, richmondred01 said: Also. Very important : Make sure the hole in the rod cap is facing the cam..... Ok, now you've raised my curiosity big time! WHY? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #104 Posted February 1, 2021 6 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Ok, now you've raised my curiosity big time! WHY? Oil splash. The direction the crank turns throws the oil to the camshaft side. The hole allows oil to get to the crank journal. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #105 Posted February 1, 2021 1 hour ago, squonk said: Oil splash. The direction the crank turns throws the oil to the camshaft side. The hole allows oil to get to the crank journal. Ah, so some oil also either runs up the "splash arm", or splashes directly, into the hole. Grasshopper thanks you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #106 Posted February 1, 2021 You will know rather quickly if it’s installed backwards. (This is not a good thing) 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #107 Posted February 1, 2021 1 minute ago, richmondred01 said: You will know rather quickly if it’s installed backwards. (This is not a good thing) In the spectacular fail category? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #108 Posted February 1, 2021 In the giving the block another breather hole category. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #109 Posted February 1, 2021 7 minutes ago, Handy Don said: In the spectacular fail category? yes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #110 Posted February 1, 2021 51 minutes ago, WHX24 said: In the giving the block another breather hole category. Not a "window of opportunity" I take it? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #111 Posted February 1, 2021 Maybe a dumb question. Why not just put a hole on both sides? Seems to me it would balance it out.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,695 #112 Posted February 1, 2021 10 minutes ago, Gregor said: Maybe a dumb question. Why not just put a hole on both sides? Seems to me it would balance it out.. You are correct in a literal form however it would be VERY challenging to keep oil inside with 2 breathing openings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #113 Posted February 2, 2021 I think Gregor meant in the con rod big end cap, not in the crank case. Logic tells me that the direction of rotation pushes the cam shaft side of the big end into the sump oil, at very high velocity. This forces oil up the drilling and into the bearing gap. Essentially a pressurised lubrication system without a pump. If this set up does not work with the hole on the opposite side then there seems no point in adding a drilling there. The removal of metal for the correct drilling will have been accounted for so no need the drill another for the sake of balance. The oil dipper fin just flings oil round the crank casing to lubricate the camshaft etc. Thats my take on it at least. Mick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #114 Posted February 3, 2021 This is the brass engine data plate I had engraved. Its 1.5mm thick and is really well engraved. Will look really smart on the engine casing. Mick 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slightly Discombobulated 6 #115 Posted February 9, 2021 It's been a whole week without an update. The suspense is killing me! How's Fred?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #116 Posted February 13, 2021 Sorry guys, been waiting for those valves. Took longer to get from the airport to me than it did to get from Kevin to the UK 🤔 Anyway, they arrived this morning so I will be taking them to the machine shop on Monday. I've not heard from them so not sure if they have just got on with the work or thrown it in a corner lol. Fitted a battery isolator switch and done some other prep work ready for when the block is finished. Itching to get on with it now. Mick 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,647 #117 Posted February 13, 2021 MICK , what ever else you do make sure you an ASEMBLEY LUBE , https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-Ultra-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000HBNVSK DURING YOUR BUILD UP . your choice of brand or type , any movement point needs this , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #118 Posted February 13, 2021 5 minutes ago, peter lena said: MICK , what ever else you do make sure you an ASEMBLEY LUBE , https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-Ultra-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000HBNVSK DURING YOUR BUILD UP . your choice of brand or type , any movement point needs this , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,647 #119 Posted February 13, 2021 richmond01, as said , what ever type you use is vital, another area that I have found that really responds to lubricant is the governor shaft / throttle linkage area, since regularly giving it a shot of lubricant ,on both ends ,it now moves with total ease , making my governor action , very smooth and easy , just my own experience , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #120 Posted February 13, 2021 Yep. Pre lube is your best friend. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #121 Posted February 14, 2021 I bought a bottle of the Lucas oil lube so will use plenty as I rebuild the engine. Took a look at the valve push rod/cam followers whatever you like to call them. The face of the adjusters has a slight dimple worn into it by the constant working against the tip of the valve stem. I measured them at 3 thou deep. Just wondering if its worth popping them on the surface grinder to get them flat again. It would make the measuring of the valve clearance more accurate I think. The ends of the valve stems also looked to have been ground at some point which makes me wonder if someone tried to set the gaps by grinding them, not realising there are adjusters on this engine. That rough finish would have increased wear on the follower adjusters. Mick 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #122 Posted February 14, 2021 The tappets. Yes make sure they are square when you remove the material. i find that 320 wet and dry sandpaper on granite or glass is a better method. grinder removes it too fast and too much. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,315 #123 Posted February 14, 2021 I would grind both of the items on a surface grinder, if you have the skills to do it properly. Use a precision v-block and grind with a 80 grit wheel. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #124 Posted February 14, 2021 11 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I would grind both of the items on a surface grinder, if you have the skills to do it properly. Use a precision v-block and grind with a 80 grit wheel. even better... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #125 Posted February 14, 2021 (edited) On 2/13/2021 at 9:30 AM, richmondred01 said: Yep. Pre lube is your best friend. back in the day - we used STP as a pre-lube ... on rod and crank bearings ... cam and lifters not sure if it was the best thing to use - but that's all we knew at the time some used a light film of oil on the cylinder bores - others preferred dry (?) the other thing I recall : after cylinder was bored and / or honed - we washed in hot water with dishwashing detergent (Dawn ?) Edited February 14, 2021 by tom2p 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites