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Mickwhitt

Major overhaul of K301

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richmondred01

Also. Very important :    
Make sure the hole in the rod cap is facing the cam.....

1CDB1AD7-F763-43A5-A27D-3C7BAB1F16F5.jpeg

Edited by richmondred01
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Mickwhitt

Gentlemen,  stop your start watches! The engine went in for reboring today. So we will see how long it takes.

The engineer said I coukd come see it on the boring machine when itsxset up in a few days.

The exhaust valve is goosed so I ordered a new set from Kevin, hoping they will come just as quick as the other parts. 

Mick 

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Handy Don
5 hours ago, richmondred01 said:

Also. Very important :    
Make sure the hole in the rod cap is facing the cam.....

1CDB1AD7-F763-43A5-A27D-3C7BAB1F16F5.jpeg

Ok, now you've raised my curiosity big time!  WHY?

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squonk
6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Ok, now you've raised my curiosity big time!  WHY?

Oil splash. The direction the crank turns throws the oil to the camshaft side. The hole allows oil to get to the crank journal.

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, squonk said:

Oil splash. The direction the crank turns throws the oil to the camshaft side. The hole allows oil to get to the crank journal.

Ah, so some oil also either runs up the "splash arm", or splashes directly, into the hole.  Grasshopper thanks you.

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richmondred01

You will know rather quickly if it’s installed backwards.

(This is not a good thing)

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Handy Don
1 minute ago, richmondred01 said:

You will know rather quickly if it’s installed backwards.

(This is not a good thing)

In the spectacular fail category?

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WHX??

In the giving the block another breather hole category. 

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richmondred01
7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

In the spectacular fail category?


yes.

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squonk
51 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

In the giving the block another breather hole category. 

Not a "window of opportunity" I take it? :helmet:

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Gregor

Maybe a dumb question.  Why not just put a hole on both sides? Seems to me it would balance it out..

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Maybe a dumb question.  Why not just put a hole on both sides? Seems to me it would balance it out..

You are correct in a literal form however it would be VERY challenging to keep oil inside with 2 breathing openings. 

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Mickwhitt

I think Gregor meant in the con rod big end cap, not in the crank case.

 

Logic tells me that the direction of rotation pushes the cam shaft side of the big end into the sump oil, at very high velocity.

This forces oil up the drilling and into the bearing gap. Essentially a pressurised lubrication system without a pump. 

If this set up does not work with the hole on the opposite side then there seems no point in adding a drilling there. The removal of metal for the correct drilling will have been accounted for so no need the drill another for the sake of balance.

The oil dipper fin just flings oil round the crank casing to lubricate the camshaft etc. 

Thats my take on it at least.

Mick 

 

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Mickwhitt

20210203_224459.jpg.bfc7ad9ebfe1348ac5701c2239411e0e.jpgThis is the brass engine data plate I had engraved.

Its 1.5mm thick and is really well engraved.

Will look really smart on the engine casing.

Mick 

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Slightly Discombobulated

It's been a whole week without an update. The suspense is killing me! How's Fred??

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Mickwhitt

Sorry guys, been waiting for those valves. Took longer to get from the airport to me than it did to get from Kevin to the UK 🤔

Anyway, they arrived this morning so I will be taking them to the machine shop on Monday.

 

I've not heard from them so not sure if they have just got on with the work or thrown it in a corner lol.

 

Fitted a battery isolator switch and done some other prep work ready for when the block is finished.

 

Itching to get on with it now.

 

Mick 

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peter lena

richmond01, as said , what ever type you use  is vital, another area that I have found that really responds to lubricant is the   governor shaft / throttle  linkage area, since regularly giving it a shot of lubricant ,on both ends ,it now moves with total ease , making my governor action , very smooth and easy , just my own experience , pete

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richmondred01

Yep. Pre lube is your best friend. 

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Mickwhitt

I bought a bottle of the Lucas oil lube so will use plenty as I rebuild the engine. 

 

Took a look at the valve push rod/cam followers whatever you like to call them.

The face of the adjusters has a slight dimple worn into it by the constant working against the tip of the valve stem. I measured them at 3 thou deep. Just wondering if its worth popping them on the surface grinder to get them flat again. It would make the measuring of the valve clearance more accurate I think. 

The ends of the valve stems also looked to have been ground at some point which makes me wonder if someone tried to set the gaps by grinding them, not realising there are adjusters on this engine. That rough finish would have increased wear on the follower adjusters.

Mick 

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richmondred01

The tappets. Yes make sure they are square when you remove the material.

i find that 320 wet and dry sandpaper on granite or glass is a better method.

grinder removes it too fast and too much. 

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lynnmor

I would grind both of the items on a surface grinder, if you have the skills to do it properly.  Use a precision v-block and grind with a 80 grit wheel.

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richmondred01
11 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I would grind both of the items on a surface grinder, if you have the skills to do it properly.  Use a precision v-block and grind with a 80 grit wheel.


even better...

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tom2p
On 2/13/2021 at 9:30 AM, richmondred01 said:

Yep. Pre lube is your best friend. 


back in the day - we used STP as a pre-lube ... on rod and crank bearings ... cam and lifters 

 

not sure if it was the best thing to use - but that's all we knew at the time 


some used a light film of oil on the cylinder bores - others preferred dry (?)

 

the other thing I recall :  after cylinder was bored and / or honed - we washed in hot water with dishwashing detergent (Dawn ?)

 

Edited by tom2p
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