peter lena 8,646 #76 Posted January 24, 2021 MICK , IF YOU WANT TO ,ADD THIS TO YOUR OIL , AND TELL ME THE ABOUT THE FREE RUNNING DIFFERENCE , https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4405/ since using this in all my small engines , the total ease and free running ease , is really amazing , just my own experience , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #77 Posted January 24, 2021 Just now, peter lena said: MICK , IF YOU WANT TO ,ADD THIS TO YOUR OIL , AND TELL ME THE ABOUT THE FREE RUNNING DIFFERENCE , https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4405/ since using this in all my small engines , the total ease and free running ease , is really amazing , just my own experience , pete Based on your postings about this stuff I bought 3 bottles and have put it in some WHs. Frankly I see no difference not sure how to quantify free easy running...my experience. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #78 Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/20/2021 at 12:32 PM, ebinmaine said: Just as a clarification I'm referring to the engine cast iron fins. The aluminum cylinder head should never be painted. I always find things out 2 weeks too late. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #79 Posted January 24, 2021 That reminds me to also use pre lube while doing the assembly. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,690 #80 Posted January 24, 2021 11 minutes ago, Gregor said: I always find things out 2 weeks too late. It won't be a huge concern unless the engine is put under a decent load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,424 #81 Posted January 24, 2021 24 minutes ago, Mickwhitt said: ... I've written a step by step idiots guide to removing and stripping the engine so I don't forget how it all goes back together... I would absolutely love to see your notes made available here. It's one thing to have the Kohler service manual at your side, quite another to have a "here's how it's really done" guide. Several decades ago, I made extensive use of a book that was available when I had my '68 VW Bug, called "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot". Extremely highly recommended for anybody working on an air-cooled VW, full of information and entertaining as well. I hope to be able to find my copy again some day, oil stains and all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #82 Posted January 24, 2021 Don't worry, the second i get stuck i will be here asking for help to fix it. Really enjoying the process so far. Its exercising the old grey matter better than anything I could imagine. Mick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #83 Posted January 24, 2021 4 hours ago, Mickwhitt said: I am looking to get an engine data plate engraved with all the information on from the labels Get ahold of @Vinylguy here Mick. He makes decals and can use your numbers. you can apply it over the original plate or make a new plate. KOHLER ENGINE SPEC PLATE DECALS - Redo Your Horse 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #84 Posted January 24, 2021 This is the kind of thing I'm looking at producing. Brass or aluminium plate with the engraving coloured in black. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #85 Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) Check out a trophy shop. They engrave a lot of plates. Edited January 24, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #86 Posted January 26, 2021 Valve guides arrived this morning. I will take them with me with the crank case to have them pressed in and reamed at the engine shop. Just the rebuild kit to arrive now. Mick 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #87 Posted January 27, 2021 On 1/24/2021 at 9:44 AM, tunahead72 said: How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive I might still have my copy. '66 Bug long gone. Relied on that book the time I removed the engine to change the clutch and again when I replaced the entire front suspension. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #88 Posted January 27, 2021 This is the art work for my new engine plate. I think it will look pretty cool, Soon as it arrives I will post a pic. Mick 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #89 Posted January 31, 2021 The package of parts arrived and look great quality. I slipped up as there are no valves included in this kit so I will have to order a set. There is a rebuild kit and a master rebuild kit which does include the valves, so inorderdd the wrong one. But I can get all the machining done in the meantime and take a huge step forward in this project. The oil ring is quite different to the original one, the original had four elements; an upper and lower very thin ring, a wavy spring and a larger machined central ring. The new one is just three elements, two thin rings and a wavy pressed ring. Im not sure how the new ring kit should look as the installation diagrams are very basic and do not reflect the parts in the kit. Any thoughts on rings? Mick 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #90 Posted January 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Mickwhitt said: wavy pressed ring at the bottom, they are for the oil. and the other to are for compression, make sure you turn the opening opposite of the opening on the ring below. And i first would insure the gap is good on the rings. Progress looking good! great work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,690 #91 Posted January 31, 2021 3 hours ago, Mickwhitt said: thoughts on rings Check to see if the thin oil rings are tapered. It'll obviously be a very small difference if any at all. If one has a dot and the other doesn't that'll be a locator. Manufacturer should tell you which goes where. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #92 Posted January 31, 2021 Eric, The diagram provided is fo four different types of ring kit, and the rings I have don't look much like any of them lol. Tutorials on line seem to point the way so im sure I can sort it out. None of the new rings have any markings for which way up. My engine guy will no doubt have a point of view. Valves are the main issue, do I order ones from the guy I bought the rest of the parts from or get a set of genuine ones over here? Decisions Decisions... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #93 Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) first gap your ring ends. If no markings: top ring: inside bevel goes up. ( chrome ring also is the top ring) middle ring: inside bevel goes down. (If it has an out 90 degree notch let us know but I don’t want anyone confused) bottom of course is the three part oil ring. Put the expander in first then the smaller ones on the outside. Make sure that expander doesn’t overlap itself. Double check it before putting the thin rings in. Also buy a ring expander. They are cheap and worth the money. No need for a broken ring or scored piston. One last thing. Do this in a warm area. Make sure it’s not too cold the rings get brittle when they are cold. Edited January 31, 2021 by richmondred01 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #94 Posted January 31, 2021 Your valves most likely can be cleaned and resurfaced. Even when I use new valves I have them surfaced and fit to the seat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #95 Posted January 31, 2021 Thanks Red, sorry don't know your name. That all makes sense from the way the original rings were fitted. Im fitting new guides which will be reamed to 5/16 so we will see what the old valves fit like when they are done. It only took ten days from placing the order with Kevin to getting the parts so its no big deal if I need new valves. I've waited longer for parts within the UK. Just nipped out and bought a valve spring compressor as the one I made up us too limited for refitting the collets, also a piston ring plier so I won't be trying to do the rings by hand. I remember wrapping insulation tape round my thumb tips to fit the rings on big old diesel pistons. Not best practice. Still plenty of work to do while the cylinder is bored, just making new throttle lever pivots as the holes in them were like closet seats (Yorkshire term) and the rods were like a dogs d!&k in a dustbin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #96 Posted January 31, 2021 Major bits laid out to show where I'm at. Itching to get the machining done so I can start rebuilding. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #97 Posted January 31, 2021 You working on that in the house? I remember tearing apart a Briggs on my friend's kitchen table when I was about 10. (She wasn't home!) 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #98 Posted January 31, 2021 But of course I'm in the house! SWMBO is ok as long as I put my toys away when I'm done playing lol. I do have workshops outside but its more comfortable in the indoor shop. No wandering outdoors getting cold. Plus she brings me tea regularly. 5 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #99 Posted January 31, 2021 37 minutes ago, Mickwhitt said: But of course I'm in the house! SWMBO is ok as long as I put my toys away when I'm done playing lol. I do have workshops outside but its more comfortable in the indoor shop. No wandering outdoors getting cold. Plus she brings me tea regularly. Is she available for hire??? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,690 #100 Posted January 31, 2021 4 hours ago, Mickwhitt said: Major bits laid out Nice pic there. Interesting to see the exploded view. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites