Mickwhitt 4,642 #1 Posted January 10, 2021 Gents, I'm considering a full overhaul of the K 301 on Fred. Its 40 years old and still has a standard piston fitted. Definitely using oil and to my ear a tiny bit of big end noise. We have an auto reboring shop nearby who also say they will do single cylinder motor bike engines etc. If I go down this route I will need new piston, rings, shell bearings etc. What should I be asking the machine shop to do to this engine? Obviously rebore to new piston size, regrind crank, skim cylinder face so head gasket seals better. I've seen a guy on ebay selling engine rebuild kits, he is in wauseon Ohio. Anyone heard of him? Hoping to find out if this machine shop will take on the work then I can bite the bullet and strip Fred down. Mick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #2 Posted January 10, 2021 Have the machine shop inspect the bore and crank BEFORE ordering anything. They will tell you what size piston you will need. Also they will be able to tell if crank can be reground. (Only .010 undersize rods available) Also replace the rod if they can't inspect it for cracks. Once you get the parts. Bring the piston to the shop so they can finish hone the cyl. for the proper clearance. Have the shop check the valve guides and grind the seats. Get new valves too. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,424 #3 Posted January 10, 2021 I'll be watching, Mick. Refresh my memory, Fred is a C-125? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,695 #4 Posted January 10, 2021 3 hours ago, tunahead72 said: I'll be watching, Mick Yepp. Me too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #5 Posted January 10, 2021 Yes he is a C-125 built in 1979. So the engine is pretty original and probably deserves a good overhaul. I measured to bore for out of round when I initially stripped it but didn't think it was too bad using my basic measuring tools. Im waiting to hear back from the ebay seller regarding the parts kit he supplies. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kohler-K301-12HP-ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT-w-FREE-TUNE-UP-piston-020-and-rod-020-/142098712119?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #6 Posted January 10, 2021 By basic measuring tools, what do you mean? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #7 Posted January 10, 2021 I used a telescopic bore gauge to measure the cylinder for out of round. It didn't seem too bad to me but hey, what do I know? Last time I messed with an engine to this degree I was still at auto college as an apprentice. I rebuilt the engine as it was mainly to see if I could get it to run and was not wasting my time. Now it makes sense to do it right. If I can get the machining done. More to follow when I speak with the machine shop this week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 888 #8 Posted January 11, 2021 I think Kohler only makes a .010 under rod, but a.020 aftermarket is out there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #9 Posted January 11, 2021 Well gents. The machine shop I spoke to are very experienced in boring, honing, grinding etc. I worked as a mechanic for our local council when I was a lad and we used to send all our engines there for regrind etc. And its still going strong. He is happy to take on the job and has quoted me a ball park figure of 130 USD to bore and hone the cylinder and grind the crank journal. SO THE BIG QUESTION... Do I bite the bullet and take Fred off the road for a while and get the engine overhauled. Im pretty sure it is ready for some work and will certainly not hurt anything. The service kit of parts is another 100 USD or so depending on shipping and tax. The guy sounds very knowledgeable and has explained how to go about ordering after the engine has been measured. So nowhere near the expense of trying to find a new engine. Give me a reason not to go for it! Or of course just push me into a decision. Regards Mick 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,695 #10 Posted January 11, 2021 Those are GREAT prices for my area. Hey if it needs fixing. .. And it's the off season for mowing? Do it now. Says the looloo in Maine while he spends Mick money. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #11 Posted January 12, 2021 19 hours ago, Mickwhitt said: Well gents. The machine shop I spoke to are very experienced in boring, honing, grinding etc. I worked as a mechanic for our local council when I was a lad and we used to send all our engines there for regrind etc. And its still going strong. He is happy to take on the job and has quoted me a ball park figure of 130 USD to bore and hone the cylinder and grind the crank journal. SO THE BIG QUESTION... Do I bite the bullet and take Fred off the road for a while and get the engine overhauled. Im pretty sure it is ready for some work and will certainly not hurt anything. The service kit of parts is another 100 USD or so depending on shipping and tax. The guy sounds very knowledgeable and has explained how to go about ordering after the engine has been measured. So nowhere near the expense of trying to find a new engine. Give me a reason not to go for it! Or of course just push me into a decision. Regards Mick Get it done. That’s a good price on machine work. also take a good look at the valve guides easy to replace now while it’s torn down. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #12 Posted January 12, 2021 Ok, you've convinced me. I want to be sure this little red Fred keeps on going so its only right that I tear him down and give him a good going over. I don't suppose you want any photos taking as I do it huh? 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #13 Posted January 12, 2021 I’ve dealt with Kevin before. His parts are rotary and steins. You will be fine using him. He also sell guides. Theres a trick to removing and installing guides that’s down and dirty and works well. let me know when you are at the point. Also don’t loose the .005 spacer, it may also be .003 or .010 that is located on the PTO side of the cam. Additionally, label the valve tappets as exhaust and intake. They are different. all the best. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #14 Posted January 13, 2021 Right ho. The job has begun, I got my tiny shop set up to remove the engine from Fred and will park the chassis out of the way while I work on the engine. Im hoping for a pretty quick turn round with the only things out of my hands being the machining and the parts delivery. With any luck Fred will run for another 40 years by which time I won't be so bothered lol. The oil was very dirty and black when I dropped it, so we need to do this. Mick 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,695 #15 Posted January 13, 2021 I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. Hopefully you have your camera button pushing finger primed up and ready to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #16 Posted January 13, 2021 Absolutely Eric. The engine is now sitting on my work bench awaiting tear down. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,424 #17 Posted January 13, 2021 Nice sign... You'll fill us in on its special meaning in your world? 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #18 Posted January 13, 2021 Oops! Sorry. Thats a joke licence plate from Ireland my lovely wife brought me back as a gift. Not sure what vehicle she had in mind for me to display it on. Mick 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #19 Posted January 13, 2021 On 1/12/2021 at 8:36 AM, richmondred01 said: ’ve dealt with Kevin before. His parts are rotary and steins. You will be fine using him. I'll second that. Bought kits from him and always ok. Yes not original Kohler but those are ridiculous priced and Rotary/Stens work fine. Just be sure to convey to him what size pistons/rods you need. Best you do this now Mick before the block gets ventilated. Are those solid mounts I see on the shaker plate? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #20 Posted January 13, 2021 On 1/12/2021 at 8:36 AM, richmondred01 said: label the valve tappets as exhaust and intake 2nd that too, I just clean them off and mark them X & I on the face. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,336 #21 Posted January 13, 2021 I just got a kit from him yesterday and looking at the connecting rod has a 25 mm written on it .I'm assuming that the measurement then to have the crank turn would be at that size rather than 10 under In thousands? eh? @WHX24 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #22 Posted January 13, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, The Tuul Crib said: I just got a kit from him yesterday and looking at the connecting rod has a 25 mm written on it .I'm assuming that the measurement then to have the crank turn would be at that size rather than 10 under In thousands? eh? @WHX24 Are you sure it isn't 2.5MM? 2.5MM is .010" Edited January 13, 2021 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mickwhitt 4,642 #23 Posted January 13, 2021 0.010 in is actually 0.25 mm not 2.5mm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,164 #24 Posted January 13, 2021 Opp s I moved the decimal. But I think TC'S rod is the .010 rod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #25 Posted January 13, 2021 Put the calipers to it to be sure. Wouldn't be the first time something got packaged wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites