Drill bit sharpening video

[ebinmaine 67,703]

Scrolling through the wormhole we all know as YouTube the other day and this popped up

I know a lot of us have some serious challenges trying to get a drill bit just right and this looked like a great explanation.

I've done some bit sharpening and had some mixed successes and failures in the past. Thought I'd share this method. 

 

 

 

[JAinVA 4,619]

That is a good video. The technique is slightly different than what I was taught many years ago. You know you got it right when chip coming out of the hole is the same size from one flute to the other. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Good.  He grinds a concave on the heel where I grind a convex heel. But I think this method is easier and I'll try it next time.

Thanks for sharing!

[Kenneth R Cluley 527]

Used to hand grind all my drills but got a drill doctor from my father in law, and it really does a good job. Especially on smaller stuff as at my age is more difficult to see and control. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

No doubt the small bits are less forgiving.

[Ed Kennell 38,259]

That is close to the way I sharpen a bit for  metals like brass, copper and cast iron.       Like Dennis, I grind a convex heel shape although I don't think it matters as this is just clearance to the workpiece.         For hard metals, I grind the heel right up to the cutting edge for a better bite.     The key is to keep it cool.     I keep the bits wet by constantly dipping in water.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Ed, I'd never thought about thinning the cutting edge to get a better bite though I've ground a steeper angle to help with that.  But then the cutting edge is weaker and more likely to chip.  Any grinding of a cutting edge is easily ruined by heat and a thinner edge even quicker.  I too don't think that a convex or concave heel matters as long as it's out of way of the chip but I think I'll find the concave easier to grind.  Just never thought about, just ground as I was taught.  I too have a Drill Doctor but I tend to just grind what I need as I need it.  Quicker for me.

[ebinmaine 67,703]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

That is close to the way I sharpen a bit for  metals like brass, copper and cast iron.       Like Dennis, I grind a convex heel shape although I don't think it matters as this is just clearance to the workpiece.         For hard metals, I grind the heel right up to the cutting edge for a better bite.     The key is to keep it cool.     I keep the bits wet by constantly dipping in water.

 

 

First of all, thanks for your responses guys I appreciate it.

 

Ed, why does the thickness of The cutting edge matter for the hardness of the metal?

 

[Ed Kennell 38,259]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

 

Ed, why does the thickness of The cutting edge matter for the hardness of the metal?

 

A really sharp knife edge will bite into a hard steel, but it will grab and try to take too big of a cut on soft metals.     A bit with a flat edge as in the video will not bite into the soft metal so quickly.

[ebinmaine 67,703]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

A really sharp knife edge will bite into a hard steel, but it will grab and try to take too big of a cut on soft metals.     A bit with a flat edge as in the video will not bite into the soft metal so quickly.

Niiiice. New knowledge. Thanks. 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,922]

Step one.  Get my 6” grinder out from storage after 3.5 years or so.

 

Step two.  Sharpen bits.

 

thanks EB!

[oldlineman 1,481]

Another important thing is to have a good stone with a flat surface, and yes a steady hand, not quite as easy as we grow older. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

1 hour ago, oldlineman said:

Another important thing is to have a good stone with a flat surface, and yes a steady hand, not quite as easy as we grow older. 

The vid showed moving the bit back and forth which would help dealing with a less than perfectly flat surface but of course that would be the first thing to address.  Little point in sharpening a drill bit on an undressed stone.  And yes, while I find that I've gotten better with many things as the years roll by I'm not hopeful about bit sharpening...

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

When I was in the machine shop, I often used a 6" wide belt sander of about 120grit I actually felt I did a better job on the wide belt vs a narrow stone unless doing 1/8" or smaller bits, I also learned that the cutting edge angle (steep/shallow) if varied would cut harder or softer metals better. I need to get in my tool chest and pull out the index and snap a couple pics of the different regrinds I have done.

[ebinmaine 67,703]

2 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

When I was in the machine shop, I often used a 6" wide belt sander of about 120grit I actually felt I did a better job on the wide belt vs a narrow stone unless doing 1/8" or smaller bits, I also learned that the cutting edge angle (steep/shallow) if varied would cut harder or softer metals better. I need to get in my tool chest and pull out the index and snap a couple pics of the different regrinds I have done.

I'd appreciate that Jeff. 

 

We pretty much use drill bits for either wood or Wheelhorse steel. 

 

If I need to keep two sets I would. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'd appreciate that Jeff. 

 

We pretty much use drill bits for either wood or Wheelhorse steel. 

 

If I need to keep two sets I would. 

Mainly steels/metals in my former profession.