Kohler Engine Test Stand Questions

[oliver2-44 9,765]

I have several Kohler engines I need to overhaul in the next few years.  K91 through K341, possible a Kohler twin, and maybe even a Briggs.  How is the best way to test operate them if the tractor is not available to bolt them back into to test run?

 

I did a search and not much comes up for "TEST STAND"  if you've made something, even simple/crude I'd appreciate information and a picture of it. 

 

If I build something simple, I'm thinking a baseplate, choke and throttle cable, fuel tank, key switch battery holder, wiring to starter, coil, points. maybe a power wire for a future electric fuel pump. 

Do I need a voltage regulator?  if not what do I do with the 2 wires from the stator. 

Seems like a spare frame, dash and fuel tank support would be a good start. But I don't have a lot of room to store something big.

Edited January 6, 2021 by oliver2-44

[SylvanLakeWH 25,606]

[JAinVA 4,619]

I have a couple Kohler rebuilds to test and I had several used engines to test as well. I wanted to test the used engines without dealing with nasty fuel systems and sketchy wiring. This stand uses mostly all Wheel Horse parts. An overturned 35 gallon plastic trash can protects the fuel tank,battery and control panel if this is left out in the weather.

 

Edited January 6, 2021 by JAinVA

[Pullstart 62,922]

If you build a plate to accept a number of engines, possible think of battery hood downs in vehicles.  A lip or two on the PTO side and a clamp on the flywheel side... it would make it fairly universal.

[JAinVA 4,619]

If you are dealing with WHs only this stand should handle any air cooled engine ever used in a WH if you have all the adapter pieces. The rocker plate engines and and Onans need the specific mounting hardware. At least you have a use for spare frames and surplus 6" wheels.

Edited January 6, 2021 by JAinVA

[8ntruck 7,022]

Need to add some sort of a brake so you can test run the engines under load.

 

A bucket item one of my friends had was an Allison V1710 V 12 aircraft engine on a test stand with a big enough brake so he could load it up and make it bark.

[oliver2-44 9,765]

3 hours ago, JAinVA said:

I have a couple Kohler rebuilds to test and I had several used engines to test as well. I wanted to test the used engines without dealing with nasty fuel systems and sketchy wiring. This stand uses mostly all Wheel Horse parts. An overturned 35 gallon plastic trash can protects the fuel tank,battery and control panel if this is left out in the weather.

 

 

@JAinVA  I'm guessing your using those 3 switches in place of a key switch.  How/What are they used for?  

[JAinVA 4,619]

Looking at the panel from the operators station the switch on the right is a 30 amp momentary on switch for the starter solenoid.  The switch on the left  is an on of switch to turn the engine on or off and is wired depending on the type of ignition, K vs M. The middle switch is for connection to the R and R or charging circuit. You don' need a switch but it was easier to deal with than a terminal strip.   There are some that say you shouldn't run the engine with the R and R not connected but I have had no issues long term with the switch on or off. I used these switches because I need to test engines with different ignition systems,points vs modules.

Obviously you have a limited ability to test an engine under load with this rig but at least you know it runs and whether it makes any funny noises. If you need any other info about this just ask.

Edited January 7, 2021 by JAinVA

[ebinmaine 67,695]

@JAinVA

VERY nice....

 

@oliver2-44

I have a pair of the triangular shaker engine mounts. If you need them they're yours for shipping. 

[JAinVA 4,619]

Thanks Eric, that is most generous.  I have enough but maybe someone needs some.  Just trying to cover any questions that may come up. Somehow a personal message to a member ended up as public, Sure it was my bad!

Edited January 7, 2021 by JAinVA

[peter lena 8,647]

JAinVA,  good simple idea , makes sense to me , often when working on a problem , you have to come up with something , and usually that is hiding in plane sight . another part of that is , THE REPITITION OF A PROBLEM , IS YOUR GREATEST OPPORTUNITY,  TO MAKE THE PROBEM GO AWAY .  pete

[Ed Kennell 38,251]

I sold a working test stand to a member at the BIG show several years ago.   Was it John? @wallfish

[oilwell1415 563]

17 hours ago, JAinVA said:

 

 

 

What does the NO switch do?

[pfrederi 17,741]

22 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I sold a working test stand to a member at the BIG show several years ago.   Was it John? @wallfish

 

 

Twas me...

[MikMacMike 479]

16 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Need to add some sort of a brake so you can test run the engines under load.

 

A bucket item one of my friends had was an Allison V1710 V 12 aircraft engine on a test stand with a big enough brake so he could load it up and make it bark.

Thats exactly what I was thinking too. A way to add load, that will give a better indication especially when tuning. I did copy a site showing this guy making basically a dyno for small engines. Ill have to look for it and post it.

[oilwell1415 563]

A dyno would not be hard to build.  You just need a hydraulic pump that will handle the power and rpm you plan to test and a way to measure the torque on the pump and the rpm of the engine.  Use a combination of valves to regulate the flow and pressure of the pump and the load on the engine.

[pfrederi 17,741]

[Ed Kennell 38,251]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

Twas me...

 

Sorry Paul, this 77 year old memory bank is jammed to capacity and some data gets lost.    Thanks for posting the video.   I thought it might give Jim some ideas.

[oliver2-44 9,765]

17 hours ago, JAinVA said:

 The middle switch is for connection to the R and R or charging circuit. You don' need a switch but it was easier to deal with than a terminal strip.   There are some that say you shouldn't run the engine with the R and R not connected but I have had no issues long term with the switch on or off. 

@JAinVA so do I understand correctly the 2 wires from the stator are wired to this switc. Then if the switch is closed those 2 stator leads are shorted together?this switch 

Thanks everyone, keep the ideas coming 

[JAinVA 4,619]

There are two wires from the stator to the R and R .The R and R has  a 3 wire plug. Two of the connectors are connected to the stator and the 3rd  contact goes to the + battery terminal. The switch has one terminal connected to the R and R and the other to the positive battery terminal. The switch just makes it easier to make this connection and  really isn't needed.. The K series have been in service long enough long  that the 3 connector  plug may have been eliminated. Just to be clear

do not take the stator leads and connect them to each other, ever. You will burn something up with the engine running.  What I was referring to about the Rand R being disconnected from battery with the engine running  is that some people say it will kill the unit. I have not seen this to be true.

Edited January 7, 2021 by JAinVA