matt monte 132 #26 Posted January 10, 2021 wanted to thank everyone and give an update. I was able to remove dipstick without marring up the threads. I had to get 'creative', and i did. I estimate only 20% of shards fell into trans. ill get those when i break trans open. Whenever its warm enough to run water, ill pressure wash, and strip her the rest of the way down. Ill keep everyone posted 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #27 Posted January 10, 2021 Well done Sir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,324 #28 Posted January 10, 2021 3 hours ago, matt monte said: I had to get 'creative', ?????? We gotta know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 132 #29 Posted January 11, 2021 did sabre blade in 2 spots then a flathead and hammer while using a needle nose to grab stubborn pieces. Wasnt pretty. i wouldnt want a YT video made of this yet fine with the end result. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 132 #30 Posted February 3, 2021 love these snow days! After getting driveway cleared, I made time to disassemble WH. I have 2 questions that can save me plenty of research time. What puller do i need to buy to remove wheel hubs and pully on other side? Goal here is to media blast, replace gasket and axle seals, and paint. Also how the hell does steering wheel come off? wanted to blast and repaint. didnt see the point of ripping down further unless someone here states differently 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,324 #31 Posted February 3, 2021 For the hubs, It is best to get a bearing splitter that can be installed behind the small inside diameter of the hub and use any puller to pull on the splitter against the end of the axle. If you pull on the thin hub bolting flange , you may break the cast iron hub. Do not try to pound on the hub. The axle is only held in the tranny be a C clip and it cuold shear off or damage the groove. The wheel is a bear. First challenge is to remove the roll pin that is thru the hub and shaft. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #32 Posted February 3, 2021 I use a spare hub as the puller base. Then use the center and pull stud from the puller. 5 bolts attachifying the hubs to each other. LOTS and LOTS of heat. . Penetrating oil Here's a couple pictures. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 132 #33 Posted February 3, 2021 ok so i have my work cut out for me. ill hunt down tanks for my torch and look for a donor hub somewhere..........great 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #34 Posted February 3, 2021 6 hours ago, matt monte said: ok so i have my work cut out for me. ill hunt down tanks for my torch and look for a donor hub somewhere..........great I've got donor hubs you can have for the shipping cost. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #35 Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) I remove the bolts on the hub, sprau some penatrating oil in those holes, let it sit for an hour, greasing my bolts going in the hub with vaseline, and then i use a low power impact gun, so i never overthighten and strip out the boltholes. Mostly it's going smooth, if not, use heat, and more penatrating oil like ebinmaine mentioned. And have/make a puller tht pulls on on all 5 lug nuts, and insure the bolts are using all the treads off the hub, before tenioned and pulling the hub off. One hub was on so thight, it bented this tick steel plate, but luckily no bolt holes where stripped. Edited February 3, 2021 by Maxwell-8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,392 #36 Posted February 3, 2021 9 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I can't tell what you have in between those 2 hubs Eric Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #37 Posted February 3, 2021 1 minute ago, rjg854 said: I can't tell what you have in between those 2 hubs Eric It's the middle piece of a standard 2 or 3 jaw puller. Looks kind of like a turkey's footprint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,392 #38 Posted February 3, 2021 I kinda thought that's what you had going on there, just wanted to clarify. Simple idea 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #39 Posted February 3, 2021 8 minutes ago, rjg854 said: I kinda thought that's what you had going on there, just wanted to clarify. Simple idea Can't take credit for that one. I don't recall who posted it but I got that idea from Redsquare somewhere... Seems to work well enough. I'd like to figure out how to pull from the backside at the small part though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,531 #40 Posted February 3, 2021 On 1/10/2021 at 7:28 PM, matt monte said: did sabre blade in 2 spots then a flathead and hammer while using a needle nose to grab stubborn pieces. Wasnt pretty. i wouldnt want a YT video made of this yet fine with the end result. Hmm, that sounds familiar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAA 1973 71 #41 Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) Has anyone tried one of these pullers? https://harborfreight.com/5-ton-three-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-95326.html With all the issues pulling hubs, I would think hitting them with penetrating oil and possibly heating them up to prevent breaking, one of these pullers would do the trick Edited February 3, 2021 by KAA 1973 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #42 Posted February 3, 2021 1 hour ago, KAA 1973 said: Has anyone tried one of these pullers? https://harborfreight.com/5-ton-three-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-95326.html With all the issues pulling hubs, I would think hitting them with penetrating oil and possibly heating them up to prevent breaking, one of these pullers would do the trick It's the "3 jaw" part that's the problem. Hubs are cast iron, hence can be brittle. You can't reliably pull on the outside. That's why I use the internals of a 3 jaw puller but make my own attachment system using a spare hub. 5 points of contact a little closer to the center. Even that isn't foolproof. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,742 #43 Posted February 3, 2021 If it is really stubborn 2 jaw 3 jaw even plate or spare hub with 5 holes may break it. (especially GT14s D series plus the older thinner regular hubs) You have to pull on the back end of the hub. This rig got the hub off with out breaking it but it did bend the black heavy wall square tubing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 132 #44 Posted February 24, 2021 made some headway, very little though. lol I had a 5/8 thick piece of stock cut into a 6inch disc. i then welded a nut in center and drilled out bolt pattern, instant hub puller. I borrowed the idea from a member here, from Maryland i believe. So i got one side off. took more time than i anticipated. before i do other side i need to hog out bolt pattern a hair. its off just enough to bind up the bolts making it annoying. Also the center bolt isnt long enough. had to back it out a few times to add filler in-between. time consuming. As u see in pics axle slid out, that cant be good. Assuming a snap ring of sorts must hold it in place. How do i get pully off?. Harbor freight 3 jaw puller? i was advised this could bend pully. those 7/16-20 bolts were next to impossible to find. none at lowes,hd,auto part stores. got 4 at ace hardware with bolts and washers for $32!!!!!!!! what a rip off. yeah i could of ordered them put was off,kid free and wanted to make use of time alone. Also i had to thread them, only bottom inch was threaded, annoying. Spent an entire afternoon getting one hub off! oh well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,324 #45 Posted February 24, 2021 I always used 3/8" bolts and put washers on the back side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 132 #46 Posted April 3, 2021 had some me time earlier. media blasted and cracked case open. The axle came out of diff and now i see why. snap ring came off. assuming i should replace instead of attempting to reuse bent one. case was cracked open at some point, no gasket, just a mess of red permatex. Can anyone advise as to the part numbers for gasket as well as pn to axle seals? Wanna get this trans pack together before i lose a bolt! trans sticker was not readable. It goes to a 308-8. When putting gasket on what is recommended, dry ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,069 #47 Posted April 3, 2021 Here is a parts list. It is shared with models that use larger axles and more pinion gears so be careful selecting parts. Some use different differential carrier bearings also. An original parts list for your model would be clear which parts are used. Post the tractor model number so we can look for one. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #48 Posted April 3, 2021 Great source for parts is our own Wheelhorse parts and more. Lowell and Joette will fix you right up. Replace both outer bearings while you're right there. Case gasket is installed dry. Carefully check the inner carrier bearings as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #49 Posted April 3, 2021 On 2/24/2021 at 4:06 PM, matt monte said: made some headway, very little though. lol I had a 5/8 thick piece of stock cut into a 6inch disc. i then welded a nut in center and drilled out bolt pattern, instant hub puller. I borrowed the idea from a member here, from Maryland i believe. So i got one side off. took more time than i anticipated. before i do other side i need to hog out bolt pattern a hair. its off just enough to bind up the bolts making it annoying. Also the center bolt isnt long enough. had to back it out a few times to add filler in-between. time consuming. As u see in pics axle slid out, that cant be good. Assuming a snap ring of sorts must hold it in place. How do i get pully off?. Harbor freight 3 jaw puller? i was advised this could bend pully. those 7/16-20 bolts were next to impossible to find. none at lowes,hd,auto part stores. got 4 at ace hardware with bolts and washers for $32!!!!!!!! what a rip off. yeah i could of ordered them put was off,kid free and wanted to make use of time alone. Also i had to thread them, only bottom inch was threaded, annoying. Spent an entire afternoon getting one hub off! oh well To get the right bolts you can get them thru McMaster Carr. You can also get HD Fine thread threaded rod in 2 foot lengths and extra heavy fine thread nuts. The fine thread fill give you more strength and pulling power. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,760 #50 Posted April 3, 2021 39 minutes ago, squonk said: The fine thread fill give you more strength and pulling power I normally use a set of 3/8" bolts going through the hub. I've been afraid I'd pull the threads through. Do you ALWAYS use the threads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites