Save those Choke Cables.

[Ed Kennell 38,253]

Thought I'd share how I  free up a frozen cable.

Clamp the wire end in a vice.

Hold the knob end from turning.

Turn the sheath with a wrench working back and forth slowly until the entire sheath turns on the wire.

If there is a Z hook, cut it off.  

Pull the wire out and sand until it is smooth.

Install the wire in the sheath and work oil in till the entire inside length is coated.

Rebend the Z hook.

 

Works better than a new one.

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

10 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Thought I'd share how I  free up a frozen cable.

Clamp the wire end in a vice.

Hold the knob end from turning.

Turn the sheath with a wrench working back and forth slowly until the entire sheath turns on the wire.

If there is a Z hook, cut it off.  

Pull the wire out and sand until it is smooth.

Install the wire in the sheath and work oil in till the entire inside length is coated.

Rebend the Z hook.

 

Works better than a new one.

 

 

 

Back then they were built better, those old cables pretty much always free up, with some oil

Edited December 30, 2020 by Maxwell-8
Correcting autocorrection

[pacer 3,174]

That'd work alright!! 

 

I do it a bit different (but somewhat similar) I clamp the end in the vise with the cable hanging down and start an application of Kroil drips (or similar)  When ever I walk by I give it a pull/twist. Sometimes will work in a few hrs, and sometime several days, but does does the trick.. 

 

I bet there are a few other guys have developed of their own method also............

 

[WHNJ701 4,165]

I spray mine with either pb or wd, but some old timers said never use oil on control cables use graphite instead

[formariz 11,987]

Nice Prentiss vise. 109Lbs. Swiveling rear jaw. Looks like an early one late 1800s. Is there a patent date on the other side?

Edited December 30, 2020 by formariz

[CCW 1,300]

Both choke and throttle cable were freed up by clamping in the vise and using WD dripped in from the handle end.  Kept working them and now both work great.  I did not want to cut off the z bend.

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,253]

2 hours ago, formariz said:

Nice Prentiss vise. 109Lbs. Swiveling rear jaw. Looks like an early one late 1800s. Is there a patent date on the other side?

I don't see a patent date Cas.   Would it be raised o indented?    If indented, it may be full of paint.

[peter lena 8,647]

regularly lubricate anything that has to move / function , I would rather have an oil film/slick than rust any day , pete 

[formariz 11,987]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I don't see a patent date Cas.   Would it be raised o indented?    If indented, it may be full of paint.

Usually it would be on the right side of of front jaw. If not  it then is from about 1925 on . Its a great vise. Good to see one being used.

[CCW 1,300]

22 hours ago, jabelman said:

I spray mine with either pb or wd, but some old timers said never use oil on control cables use graphite instead

 

Since the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement I expect it could keep the cable rust free.

[lynnmor 7,315]

3 minutes ago, CCW said:

 

Since the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement I expect it could keep the cable rust free.

I find that WD40 is a very poor rust proofing.

[Handy Don 12,247]

22 hours ago, jabelman said:

I spray mine with either pb or wd, but some old timers said never use oil on control cables use graphite instead

It does take longer to "renew" the cable with graphite, but I let gravity help by hanging the cable from a clamp on a beam in my shop. I've always suspected that a liquid lube attracts dirt and dust through the "spring" sheath. But don't ask me to prove it! 

[CCW 1,300]

3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I find that WD40 is a very poor rust proofing.

 

I must say that I did finish the job with 3 in 1 oil.

[Ed Kennell 38,253]

Thanks for all the comments.      A lot of my cables have a plastic covering that prevents a penetrant from getting in to the wire.   When I do remove the wires, I find them very rough and corroded.   This is why I like to remove, sand smooth and lubricate the wire.  I use Marvel Mystery Oil.      This process takes about 15 minutes and except for a few where the cable was crushed, I have never found one that I could not remove the wire.

 

[Wheelhorse#1 1,669]

On 12/30/2020 at 11:10 AM, Ed Kennell said:

Thought I'd share how I  free up a frozen cable.

Clamp the wire end in a vice.

Hold the knob end from turning.

Turn the sheath with a wrench working back and forth slowly until the entire sheath turns on the wire.

If there is a Z hook, cut it off.  

Pull the wire out and sand until it is smooth.

Install the wire in the sheath and work oil in till the entire inside length is coated.

Rebend the Z hook.

 

Works better than a new one.

 

 

Best part, no need to spend money on a bran new one.Nice Tip !