correct oil

[jerry potaracke 3]

hello folks i seem to be having a lot of oil leaks using sae 30    should i go to 10w30   this engine is a b43m 16hp onan   thanks 

[stevasaurus 22,767]

I think I can safely say that 10W30 is not going to stop an oil leak and 30W should be the correct oil for your location.  The best thing to do is find the leaks and fix them.  I would not add anything to the oil either...like STP.  

   Is it a large leak, or a small leak.  A little oil on the floor can look like a big leak, when it really is not.  Did you recently change the oil and spill a little of it.  I am not familiar with Onans.  Perhaps someone here has an idea where they usually leak and what to look for.  

[305 380]

are you using synthetic oil?

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

You can switch from synthetic to mineral oil, not the other way around!

 

Also, a lighter oil, may start leaks, and in your cause worse. 

Synthetic oils can make oil leaks leak more oil.

 

If i was you, fix the leaks, and stick with the SAE30

 

 

Edited December 28, 2020 by Maxwell-8

[JoeM 7,874]

1 hour ago, jerry potaracke said:

should i go to 10w30

They make some high mileage oils with seal conditioners that may help with mild seeping. ie: dampness around a shaft area. 

If it is running out, I am with @stevasaurus, repair is the best, bad seals are bad seals no mater what the oil. 

[tom2p 2,394]

 

if anything - 10w30 would probably seep/leak more than straight 30w oil 

as others have stated - a different oil or different grade of oil is not a solution for significant oil leaks (or any leaks)

 

Edited December 29, 2020 by tom2p

[Greentored 3,216]

No sense in adding my two, these fellas hit the nail on the head. 

[Handy Don 12,247]

[adsm08 2,089]

On 12/28/2020 at 2:46 PM, Maxwell-8 said:

You can switch from synthetic to mineral oil, not the other way around!

 

 

I have concerns over this statement. At least some of them may be due to regional differences in language.

 

Mineral oil shouldn't be used as engine oil. Mineral oil and conventional (non-synthetic) engine oils are not the same thing.

 

You can switch between conventional and synthetic and back again. Synthetics tend to cause leaks because they clean away deposits that were keeping things sealed up. They can also burn off easier because things are more uniform.

 

10W-30 will burn easier than SAE30.

[sparkie333 265]

On 12/28/2020 at 1:36 PM, stevasaurus said:

and 30W should be the correct oil for your location

I agree 30W is the oil for you.

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

6 hours ago, adsm08 said:

Mineral oil shouldn't be used as engine oil. Mineral oil and conventional (non-synthetic) engine oils are not the same thing.

 

You can switch between conventional and synthetic and back again.

Conventional is indeed what i meant. 

 

I mean you could switch back an forward, but you really shouldn't. for sure if an old motor has never seen synthetic. With small engine you would probably only get some more leaks, but with cars, you could face more problems.

[tom2p 2,394]

switching between conventional / petroleum oil and synthetic is a non-issue 

 

many conventional oils already contain synthetic additives - without the additives they would not perform well

 

and many synthetic oils are produced with a petroleum base / stock (they are actually 'semi-synthetic')

 

compatibility can actually be more of an issue with grease ;  basically - don't mix lithium and molybdenum greases 

one of the more noteworthy examples of a grease lubrication issue was Alaska Airlines crash 261

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaska_Airlines_Flight_261

 

https://www.ntsb.gov/investigations/AccidentReports/Reports/AAR0201.pdf

 

https://billingsgazette.com/news/world/investigators-focus-on-jackscrew-grease-in-alaska-airlines-crash/article_11965f1b-173a-566f-9f2c-75dd19b057b8.html

 

[richmondred01 2,237]

Let me first start with I’m not a fan of oil treatments/mechanic in a can. Historically, solvents were used to swell the seals and it would fix it for awhile but in the long run it would eat up the seals.

However, I had an older f150 that was leaking out of the front seal.

I used ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks which has no solvents.

It worked well with no lasting issues. 
Since then my friend used it on a command when the crank seal was leaking. 
It fixed the leak. I still believe in replacing the seals however I can’t argue with success.

Hey but I remember cracking an egg or two into radiator to fix a leak. 

Edited January 1, 2021 by richmondred01

[stevasaurus 22,767]

and a little sawdust in the transmission never hurt anything.   

[Greentored 3,216]

Never had much luck with stopping engine oil leaks aside from tearing down and repairing/replacing gaskets and seals.

However (here comes 'story time with Green') had a nasty power steering pump seal leak on my 92 Silverado and could not get the pulley off to replace the pump or seal (required on this particular style). It peed everywhere and required topping off weekly or it'd be making the death whine.

Dumped a bottle of Lucas 'Power Steering Stop Leak' in it and after about a week it actually worked.  Went another 100k before selling the truck and never got one drop of top off fluid again.

Every once in a great great while, if the moon and stars align and you hold your tongue at just the right angle, these 'mechanics in a can' have been known to work.