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Maxwell-8

preventing rimrust

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Maxwell-8

This just came up in my mind, When i was restoring some WH rims. I had rust in the inside of my rims, asking myself: How? it's sealed with the tire.

 

And then i realized how: no water separator on the previous owner's compressor, i monthly open the tab on my compressor, and some rust water always comes out.

 

Just wanted to share this. I am grabbing a water separator for my compressor tomorrow. 

 

image.png.32ecb8358910497c81994be5182e054a.png1/2" Air Compressor Filter Oil Water Separator Trap Tools ...

Edited by Maxwell-8
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oliver2-44

Yep, theirs more moisture in compressed air than we think.

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WHNJ701

Just like the bottom of mower decks painting the inside of rims with whatever color gloss rust oleum in can, brush it on.  It's a good way to use up small portions of paint or odd colors.

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Pollack Pete

That water seperator you show will only seperate water from your air hose,which is a good thing.But,you've  got to open the drain on the bottom of the tank to blow out the big amount of water.I use my compressors every day and drain the water out every day.You would not believe how much rusty water I get out daily.As far as rust on the inside of the rims.When I restore a rim.I sandblast the entire rim.Paint the inside with POR-15 paint.Rattle can prime both sides of the rim.Finish up with either Eastwood argent paint or International Harverster white,depending which model Horse I'm working on.Last thing is a new rubber pop in valve stem if I'm using tubeless tires.The combination of  nice shiny paint and spraying the tire bead with furniture polish makes the tire a lot easier to mount.

Edited by Pollack Pete
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Maxwell-8
41 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said:

That water seperator you show will only seperate water from your air hose,which is a good thing.But,you've  got to open the drain on the bottom of the tank to blow out the big amount of water.I use my compressors every day and drain the water out every day.You would not believe how much rusty water I get out daily.As far as rust on the inside of the rims.When I restore a rim.I sandblast the entire rim.Paint the inside with POR-15 paint.Rattle can prime both sides of the rim.Finish up with either Eastwood argent paint or International Harverster white,depending which model Horse I'm working on.Last thing is a new rubber pop in valve stem if I'm using tubeless tires.The combination of  nice shiny paint and spraying the tire bead with furniture polish makes the tire a lot easier to mount.

Indeed, i do it monthly, cause i don't use mine that often

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Achto

One other reason why rims rust from the inside is that they are not painted as well on the inside as they are are outside. This is usually very evident when you buy new rims. Yes the inside is a "sealed environment" once the tire is mounted but temperature changes will still cause condensation on the inside of the rim. When I paint rims for one of my resto's I make sure that the inside is as well as the outside is.  

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Jeff-C175

Ever change one that's been 'slimed' with that evil green 5h1t?

 

OMG does that stuff SMELL!  The most disgusting thing I've ever smelt.  So bad it made me puke in my mouth a little bit.

 

And the RUST!  In addition to that, the slime has fibers in it.  When I got tne bead broken I stepped back because I thought there was a rusty dead rabbit carcass inside the tire!

 

Friends tell their friends to NEVER EVER use that crap.

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Pollack Pete
4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Ever change one that's been 'slimed' with that evil green 5h1t?

  

 

 Changed a couple with that green crap in them.Even if you wanted to tube the tire you couldn't.And cleaning up the rim?Had to scrape them before sand blasting.I NEVER use that slime.

 

 

 

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Jeff-C175

Here's a pic of one I changed for a neighbor about a month ago.  She had been using the Slime for a couple years.  Can it get worse than this?  The rims were salvageable but took quite a while with the wire cup brush to clean up.  Two applications of phosphoric acid and two coats of Rusto "Rust Reformer" under two coats of Rusto off white.  Came out fine.

 

Did I mention the SMELL? :disgust:

 

What you see in this pic is only a small amount of the same crap that was inside.  I probably could have filled a packed gallon paint can with it all.

 

slimed tire.jpg

Edited by Jeff-C175
Fxied dsylxeic slleping erorrs
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AMC RULES

💩   ...and you saying it smells bad too?

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ohiofarmer

Have you ever noticed how a tire shop mounts a tire? Out comes the soapy WATER that they just mop on there and about a half a cup goes inside. I have removed those slimed on things where nothing worked but my highly trained skills on a 5 stick backhoe.  Murphy's oil soap is made by the same company as the tire mounting lube.

  I usually use vegetable oil or canola oil for a bit better seal and no corrosion

 

  Probably the fastest dry paint that has rust preventative in it is aluminum roof coating. Rustoleum brush on will be dry in a half hour and probably recoat in an hour

Edited by ohiofarmer

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Jeff-C175
24 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

fastest dry paint that has rust preventative in it is aluminum roof coating

 

I wonder why aluminum roof coating needs rust preventative?

 

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oliver2-44
11 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I wonder why aluminum roof coating needs rust preventative?

 

The rust preventative is for the rusty tin surface it's usually painted on.

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Maxwell-8

I use Zinc spray on the inside of all my rims, never had any problems myself with this method.

 

DSC_0819.JPG

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

The rust preventative is for the rusty tin surface it's usually painted on.

Ohhh... it's an aluminized coating for tin roofs, not a coating for aluminum roofs.  I get it now.

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Zinc spray

 

I believe we call that "cold galvanize".

 

I would consider that over freshly sandblasted parts, but if there's even a trace of rust I would want to use a 'rust converter' product first.  Turn the red rust into black rust which is basically inert.

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Maxwell-8
1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I believe we call that "cold galvanize".

 

I would consider that over freshly sandblasted parts, but if there's even a trace of rust I would want to use a 'rust converter' product first.  Turn the red rust into black rust which is basically inert.

I am testing know what would be the best, keep you updated in like 4 weeks

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