Hydraulic hose and fitting sizes?

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

I've looked at a number of fittings suppliers and can not locate a 45° ORB -5 to 1/4" MALE NPT fitting so it will have to be a straight ORB -5 to FEMALE 1/4" NPT and a 45° NPT Elbow.

 

Then into the flow control valve, then a straight MALE 1/4" NPT to MALE 37° -4 JIC.

 

[Handy Don 13,129]

Dang, @ebinmaine and @Jeff-C175, you guys are really making great progress thinking this through and I'll bet a bunch of us will think about this as an option down the road. I am definitely enjoying being able to watch the action.

I would think, then, that the reduced-flow direction will respond more slowly than the full-flow direction, right? So down might take 4-5 seconds while up is 2-3, depending on the adjustment?

[ebinmaine 69,843]

6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Dang, @ebinmaine and @Jeff-C175, you guys are really making great progress thinking this through and I'll bet a bunch of us will think about this as an option down the road. I am definitely enjoying being able to watch the action.

I would think, then, that the reduced-flow direction will respond more slowly than the full-flow direction, right? So down might take 4-5 seconds while up is 2-3, depending on the adjustment?

@Jeff-C175 might be able to comment on the actual speed. I think you're headed down the right road but I'm not sure of the exact time.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

the reduced-flow direction will respond more slowly than the full-flow direction, right?

 

Yes, that's my goal.  Not 100% certain if Eric is planning something similar or not... Eric?

 

I'd like to be able to still lift the blade at a normal speed at the end of a push, but since I have to float the blade for the bluestone drive, it would be great to be able to slow that way down to make that adjustment more easily.

 

The valves I am looking at seem to allow this. 

 

I wouldn't even be thinking about this if I had a paved drive / private road!  Full UP / full DOWN would be just fine for paved areas.

 

 

Quote

down might take 4-5 seconds while up is 2-3, depending on the adjustment?

 

Since the valves adjust down to zero flow, one could presumably make it as slow as they like!

 

I don't think full speed up down is as long as 2-3 seconds.  I bet it's more in the range of ONE second!

Edited December 29, 2020 by Jeff-C175

[ebinmaine 69,843]

18 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Yes, that's my goal.  Not 100% certain if Eric is planning something similar or not... Eric?

 

I'd like to be able to still lift the blade at a normal speed at the end of a push, but since I have to float the blade for the bluestone drive, it would be great to be able to slow that way down to make that adjustment more easily.

 

The valves I am looking at seem to allow this. 

 

I wouldn't even be thinking about this if I had a paved drive / private road!  Full UP / full DOWN would be just fine for paved areas.

 

 

 

Since the valves adjust down to zero flow, one could presumably make it as slow as they like!

 

I don't think full speed up down is as long as 2-3 seconds.  I bet it's more in the range of ONE second!

I'm looking for slower travel in BOTH directions because of my rough surface and variable heights. 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm looking for slower travel in BOTH directions because of my rough surface and variable heights. 

 

 

In that case you would want to install the valve in the runs from the tranny to the valve.  That would affect both up and down equally.

 

[wallfish 17,224]

7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm looking for slower travel in BOTH directions because of my rough surface and variable heights. 

 

Just curious since I may have missed it, why not just float it with a chain instead of using a solid link so it follows the ground terrain on it's own? Or use a float valve?

[ebinmaine 69,843]

3 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Just curious since I may have missed it, why not just float it with a chain instead of using a solid link so it follows the ground terrain on it's own? Or use a float valve?

I don't think you missed anything John. 

 

I'd like to have the ability to adjust level of the plow while in motion AND the ability to maintain Power Down for scraping. 

We use the solid link on our plows almost every snow. 

 

Also, the level of the driveway is a constant "inconsistent" so I'd like to be able to follow the contour as I'm moving. 

 

For me, having a hydro tractor isn't about going faster. It's about ease and convenience. Our yard is just too rough to go any faster than I already do. 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

16 hours ago, wallfish said:

Just curious since I may have missed it, why not just float it with a chain instead of using a solid link so it follows the ground terrain on it's own? Or use a float valve?

 

I do use the chain.

 

My problem is that I want the blade of to be raised at normal speed at the end of a pass and since I have a bluestone drive I do have to float the blade.  When I lower the blade it goes down too darn fast to easily set my float height.  It is annoying to me to have to 'blip' the lift valve three or four times to get the blade to the correct height.  Slowing the down action would likely solve my issue.

 

What is a "float valve"? (I know about the ones in a terlet tank!)

Edited December 30, 2020 by Jeff-C175

[daveoman1966 3,772]

You all know, of course, that the dozer blade can be tilted backward...so that just the floating weight of it will dig into the hard pack snow.  To prevent digging too deep, set the lower limit of travel with the height adjuster.

 

[ebinmaine 69,843]

5 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

You all know, of course, that the dozer blade can be tilted backward...so that just the floating weight of it will dig into the hard pack snow.  To prevent digging too deep, set the lower limit of travel with the height adjuster.

 

Trina uses that on hers on occasion. More so with the mid mount grader of course. 

 

On my C160 I'd like the ability of instant infinite adjustability. I don't even have a bottom out bracket. Left it off on purpose. 

I have such a variable terrain I can't lock into one place for more than a few feet in most places. 

 

[pfrederi 18,206]

Instead of all this extra plumbing and stuff why not just break down and by a control valve with a float position?  Plow the uneven areas with it in float then put in non float to scrape  GT 14 Valves will do that as well as most FEL controls.  FEL type would give you the second circuit for you angle ..

[ebinmaine 69,843]

32 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Instead of all this extra plumbing and stuff why not just break down and by a control valve with a float position?  Plow the uneven areas with it in float then put in non float to scrape  GT 14 Valves will do that as well as most FEL controls.  FEL type would give you the second circuit for you angle ..

I'd had that same thought and may very well do it in the future. 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

20 hours ago, pfrederi said:

all this extra plumbing and stuff why not just break down and by a control valve with a float position

 

It's not really a lot of extra.  That little valve will mount right to my cylinder and the existing hose will simply connect to the other end.

 

I'm not familiar with FEL controls and don't know what a 'float valve' is!  I guess I need to ask Mrs Google!

[Handy Don 13,129]

On 12/30/2020 at 10:16 AM, pfrederi said:

Instead of all this extra plumbing and stuff why not just break down and by a control valve with a float position?  Plow the uneven areas with it in float then put in non float to scrape  GT 14 Valves will do that as well as most FEL controls.  FEL type would give you the second circuit for you angle ..

The way I understand the difference is that the flow valve lets you more easily set a hold position with the plow suspended in the middle of the cylinder travel.  

Float would have the plow in contact with the ground but able to move freely up and down even with a "fixed" lift linkage (i.e. similar to having both a chain linkage for the lift and down pressure).

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

similar to having both a chain linkage for the lift and down pressure

 

Ohhhh... I see.

 

OK then, I spent about 2 hours reading about valve controls and came away more confused but thanks Don, if that's correct, then I think I get it now.  maybe...

 

In that case, I don't really see the advantage to ripping out the existing valve, figuring out how to fit the new valve, possibly having to redo all of the hoses, not to mention the big cost difference.  The valve I'm looking at is like $32 and the fittings I would need maybe another $10.  You can't touch a lift control valve for that money and from what I can gather the blade would still move down too quickly for my needs.

 

Edited December 31, 2020 by Jeff-C175

[ebinmaine 69,843]

5 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

move

I'm hoping to have my hoses by the end of next week and work on getting this Charger put together when I can so maybe within two or three weeks I'll be able to use it.  

Super curious to see what the speed of this setup is going to be. 

[Jeff-C175 7,203]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

within two or three weeks

 

With all the other projects I started and need to finish, I suspect you will be done before I even order my parts!  

[ebinmaine 69,843]

1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

With all the other projects I started and need to finish, I suspect you will be done before I even order my parts!  

I wouldn't count on it I've only been working on this tractor for like 13 months