HF Generator powered by C-165

[giddyap 1,569]

 

[Charbs152 254]

question?  does the tractor always need to be running full throttle?  most generators manage the engine speed depending on load.  seems this would just guzzle fuel badly, plus if its a snow storm or whatever, your tractor cant power the house and plow at the same time.

 

I suppose it could be used around your property if you aren't near power...but then again, a cheap 3000W unit would usually suffice to run a power tool.

 

Not knocking it, just curious!

 

Thanks!

[Handy Don 12,174]

34 minutes ago, Charbs152 said:

does the tractor always need to be running full throttle? 

More important is that the RPM of the generator deliver something close to 60hz. It'll be in the specs but it's likely either 1,800 or 3,600 at the shaft. Do the pulley math and you arrive at the throttle setting for the engine. Load the generator and the engine governor will react to try to hold the speed by increasing throttle. 

Easier, and how I calibrate my standalone genny, is to look for 60hz directly at an outlet on the generator and adjust the throttle accordingly. My VOM has a frequency mode.

Edited December 18, 2020 by Handy Don
missed words

[Handy Don 12,174]

Just looked on the HF site and it's a 3,600 RPM unit. The PTO on the WH has 4" or 5". You need to get 10+ horsepower delivered via belt (~2hp per Kw is the rule of thumb) to get the full output. A much smaller pulley at the generator (so you can run the engine below full throttle) risks slippage under load without a very snug idler/tensioner to keep the belt wrapped on the generator pulley.

[Charbs152 254]

19 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Just looked on the HF site and it's a 3,600 RPM unit. The PTO on the WH has 4" or 5". You need to get 10+ horsepower delivered via belt (~2hp per Kw is the rule of thumb) to get the full output. A much smaller pulley at the generator (so you can run the engine below full throttle) risks slippage under load without a very snug idler/tensioner to keep the belt wrapped on the generator pulley.

interesting info, Don

[giddyap 1,569]

2 hours ago, Charbs152 said:

your tractor cant power the house and plow at the same time.

So true. I can drop the genny unto a dolly in 5 minutes, set-up and align is less than an hour. Then time for the plow. To avoid all the hassel I fitted a second tractor with the plow but it has tall tires. When I find another set of tires and wheels the plow tractor will get these.

[giddyap 1,569]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

 A much smaller pulley at the generator (so you can run the engine below full throttle) risks slippage under load without a very snug idler/tensioner to keep the belt wrapped on the generator pulley.

My genny pulley is 1" smaller than the PTO. The unit is held in place with turnbuckles. If neccessary the entire weight of the unit could keep the belt snug...... maybe  I'll look at devising an idler/tensioner

[WHX?? 48,801]

Just now, giddyap said:

I'll look at devising an idler/tensioner

The way you got it set up Giddy I don't think you would need one.

Like Don said tho just keep an eye on the throttle setting & the freqs. Especially when you put a serious load on it. 10kw is a lot of stuff and will easily power all house essentials.  Be interesting to see how the gov reacts when you throw the kitchen stove & fridge at her! 

[giddyap 1,569]

8 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Be interesting to see how the gov reacts when you throw the kitchen stove & fridge at her! 

The LED trouble light is as far I dare go for the time being. I'll proceed with caution and learn to avoid a meltdown.

[Handy Don 12,174]

29 minutes ago, giddyap said:

My genny pulley is 1" smaller than the PTO. The unit is held in place with turnbuckles. If neccessary the entire weight of the unit could keep the belt snug...... maybe  I'll look at devising an idler/tensioner

Separate from the tension then, if you're on the outside pulley of the PTO that's 4:3 so 2700 on the engine gets you 3600 on the generator. On the inside its 5:4 so 2880 for 3600. Does your engine produce 10hp at either of these RPM? I'd say probably if its a 16 or better but others here will know for sure!

Edited December 18, 2020 by Handy Don

[giddyap 1,569]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Does your engine produce 10hp at either of these RPM?

I have a K341 single piston 16 hp. I need to get a tachometer. 

 

[Charbs152 254]

I would love to see this in action as it is powering your home!!

[Charbs152 254]

33 minutes ago, giddyap said:

The LED trouble light is as far I dare go for the time being. I'll proceed with caution and learn to avoid a meltdown.

 

27 minutes ago, giddyap said:

I have a K341 single piston 16 hp. I need to get a tachometer. 

 

get one of those tiny tachs off ebay, they work great

[JoeM 7,871]

For the price I would say pretty nice! 

I tested my generator, only 5000W, 6000 peak. with my 230 volt air compressor. When it started the inrush made her grunt but hung in there good. 

If you want a quick comparison, hook up incandescent lights side by side, one on your house power and one on the generator. Compare brightness and flickering. Not real science but a test. 

[Handy Don 12,174]

2 hours ago, Charbs152 said:

 

get one of those tiny tachs off ebay, they work great

the Tach is good, but it is an indirect measurement and can't account for belt slippage. A frequency-capable VOM is probably about $25 and you just poke the probes into the 120 outlet on the generator--done and dusted.

[Stepney 2,325]

Saw this tractor on Facebook just earlier today, and then somehow lost the post and couldn't find it.. haha.

You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of that mounting you rigged for the Generator? Seemed a pretty novel idea, I was trying to get a good loo from the photo. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

the Tach is good, but it is an indirect measurement and can't account for belt slippage. A frequency-capable VOM is probably about $25 and you just poke the probes into the 120 outlet on the generator--done and dusted.

You got me thinking:

[Handy Don 12,174]

Just now, DennisThornton said:

You got me thinking:

Outstanding, Dennis. Mount right on the generator where you can see it while adjusting the throttle and good to go.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Outstanding, Dennis. Mount right on the generator where you can see it while adjusting the throttle and good to go.

Ain't technology great!  Might be better buys out there but this is the first that caught my eye and I think would be ideal on a genset and easy enough for anybody on this site to hook up with just two wires to tap and nothing to cut/splice or change.  

[giddyap 1,569]

44 minutes ago, Stepney said:

You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of that mounting you rigged for the Generator?

If something catches your interest on facebook, like it. You can then find it in your activity log.

I used the back half of a wide frame Cub Cadet snow plow carrier. The Wheel Horse mounting frame was also made of flat bar but the build I found on this forum used angle iron which is more rigid. I cut off one side of a 6x3x3/8 angle iron for the mounting plate

[giddyap 1,569]

1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

ideal on a genset and easy enough for anybody on this site to hook up with just two wires to tap and nothing to cut/splice or change.  

I know you meant me  Now I am free to ask a dumb question. Must it be grounded and how?

[Handy Don 12,174]

2 minutes ago, giddyap said:

I know you meant me  Now I am free to ask a dumb question. Must it be grounded and how?

I'll jump in here.  Yes, there will be three wires.  Hot, neutral, and ground.  You can set it up like a regular 110v plug to go into a generator socket.

 

[Handy Don 12,174]

Just looked at the instructions for that unit.  It is two wire, so small plug blade gets hot (black, usually), big blade is neutral (white usually)

Edited December 19, 2020 by Handy Don

[giddyap 1,569]

23 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'll jump in here.  Yes, there will be three wires.  Hot, neutral, and ground.  You can set it up like a regular 110v plug to go into a generator socket.

 

Would it be grounded thru the connecting cord to the open-transition transfer switch?

Edited December 19, 2020 by giddyap
typo

[Handy Don 12,174]

2 minutes ago, giddyap said:

Do you mean it is grounded thru the connecting cord to the open-transition transfer switch?

Sorry for the confusion.  I was referring to the voltage/frequency meter that Dennis posted. THAT you can connect to a simple two-bladed plug from HD or Lowes and attach to the generator.

 

To connect the generator to the HOUSE, is a different kettle of fish. Your image shows that you already have a line-by-line transfer panel for 10 circuits. The 240v outlet on the generator will go to the "generator" input for that panel. This cable will have TWO hot conductors, and either separate neutral and ground or just a neutral (it can get complicated!)

 

A common setup for that input is a house-wall mounted "male" plug--probably already wired to this panel and housed in a small metal box near where you would set up the generator. That male plug will have either three or four curved blades--it is a "twist lock" style connection.  Connect the generator to the house with a cable having at one end a female socket that matches the male wall-mounted plug and having at the other end a plug that matches the 220-240v socket on the generator.

 

There are a couple of electricians that are members here and they would advise working with an electrician for making up the connecting cable--and I concur.