New 520H Owner

[WH08205 15]

Hello All - new here and to wheel horses.  picked up a 520h yesterday with 42" SD deck and front mount blade.  I believe it is a 1988, sticker shows 3120OEO1 - 15981.  Overall it's pretty clean with 859 hours, AG rear tires, chrome hub caps.  Attached some photos including first quick cut.  I bought it off the second owner who is a wheel horse "trader" (if that is a thing).  He has about 25 units on hand plus all sorts of attachments.  Rare for my part of southern NJ, most were 3-6 hours away in the middle of PA or up in NY state.  Did a quick cut of my front lawn and everything seems to be operating as it should for the most part.  One observation i had is the hydro control will hold in place unless full throttle.  If put in full throttle it had to be held there or it would fall back to about 75%.  Maybe some form of adjustment is needed.  After the cut I shut it down and started it back up a few minutes later to show my son, there was the slightest little but of black smoke for a split second (much less than my kawi spits out upon start up).  This considered normal?  The head lights work but nothing from the "test" button.  Fuel gauge is accurate but others seems to be hit or miss, lots of variation in RPM and Vacuum even tho all is running smoothly.  I noticed the original owner moved the fuel filter to before the fuel pump and read that is a smart thing to do.  While i don't have maintenance records, i see on the hydro filter that it was changed in April 2018 with 848 hours, so only about 11 hours of use in the last 2 years.  I'm not surprised as I was told the original owner had a lot of equipment and the second owner only used it a few times this past summer when he had it.  Here is my due diligence plan... tried to do some homework open to input from all of those that have a lot more knowledge than me:

 

Now:

1. Seafoam / B12 treatment in fuel

2. Engine Oil / Filter change - Mobil Delvac Synthetic 5w40 w/ FleetGaurd 1220800 filter (current filter is black which tells me it's original Onan, but i can no longer find, appears FleetGaurd is also owned by Cummings)

3. Hydro Oil / Filter change - Mobil Delvac Syntheic 5w40 w/ _________________ (can someone provide the Onan part number?)

4. New spark plugs gapped to .025.  RS17YX -or- RS14YC (??)

5. New fuel filter - any recommendations here?  Found well reviewed ones with a magnet inside too.  Replace one before Fuel Pump and considering adding one after due to how the Onan carbs are very sensitive to debris. 

6. Replace air filter

7. Grease everything that needs to be (i believe there are 7 zerk  fittings?)

8. Check belt condition and tension.  Any references available for tension?  

9. Check tires for proper inflation

 

Before spring 

1. Replace or sharpen blades - what are the highest lift blades used?  

2. DIY mod for better engine cooling - anyone have photos of what they've done?

3. Clean up and treat some of the surface rust

 

Thanks in advance for all advice!

 

-RJ

[SylvanLakeWH 25,441]

 

Sounds like you have a great game plan!

[lynnmor 7,294]

 

I use only Onan 122-0800 or Fleetguard LF-3339 oil filters.

10W-30 winter and 30 in summer, I use Kohler oil because of the higher zinc.

NAPA 1410 hydro filter.

10W-30 in hydro.

There are more grease fittings, refer to manual.

Adjust the nut on hydro under the seat, see manual.  Do not lubricate.

Smash the rivet thru the throttle, or drill for a small screw and nut.

With the engine hunting, the carburetor may need cleaning.

New Champion spark plugs are junk, use NGK.

 

Download the engine, mower, demystification guide and tractor manuals on this site.

[bds1984 1,428]

RJ, I think you have a solid maintenance plan to keep this 520 going for another thirty years.  I have the same machine as you, just not nearly as nice.  For engine oil I've ran 5W40 Rotella and Delvac in my engines in the winter (15W40 in summer) with no problem but not in the transmissions.  Most of us here will agree on 10W30 synthetic in the transmission (I've run M1 or Valvoline) with a Napa 1410 filter and that combo is what I've been running in my 520H, 520xi, C195, & C175s since I can remember.   For your cooling question, many members here have drilled a matrix of holes through the belt guard to allow air flow to improve for the rear cylinder; also get in a routine of taking the engine tins off occasionally to clean out any chaff that may be stuck on the cooling fins of the engine and any oil/dust residue from oil changes.  Good luck!

[WH08205 15]

Thanks! 

 

Will update my fleedgaurd filter, can't find the black onan one. 

My choice of 5w40 was being able to use same oil all year.  maybe 10w40 would be a better choice. 

Will change to 10w30 in hydro.  Any harm with a 10w40?

Noted on fittings

Will check the nut under seat.

What/where is this rivet? 

Will consider cleaning carb too

I will cross reference for the NGK plug... should i cross reference RS17YX -or- RS14YC?

 

 

Edited December 14, 2020 by WH08205

[WH08205 15]

2 minutes ago, bds1984 said:

RJ, I think you have a solid maintenance plan to keep this 520 going for another thirty years.  I have the same machine as you, just not nearly as nice.  For engine oil I've ran 5W40 Rotella and Delvac in my engines in the winter (15W40 in summer) with no problem but not in the transmissions.  Most of us here will agree on 10W30 synthetic in the transmission (I've run M1 or Valvoline) with a Napa 1410 filter and that combo is what I've been running in my 520H, 520xi, C195, & C175s since I can remember.   For your cooling question, many members here have drilled a matrix of holes through the belt guard to allow air flow to improve for the rear cylinder; also get in a routine of taking the engine tins off occasionally to clean out any chaff that may be stuck on the cooling fins of the engine and any oil/dust residue from oil changes.  Good luck!

 

Thank you!  Noted on oils.  Ideally i am looking for an oil to run all year, as I will put very few hours if any in the winter.  Being so close to the ocean our snow fall varies drastically.  Some years we get feet, last year i think 2" total.  Noted on trans oil and filter, thanks!  I planned on getting some small wire brushes, removing the tins and cleaning out the fins.  I read about the holes, just not sure i want to do that to the side of the belt guard. 

[Handy Don 12,078]

22 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Smash the rivet thru the throttle, or drill for a small screw and nut

I just came to this conclusion yesterday when my throttle wouldn't hold against the spring to keep the engine running at full revs--it kept wanting to goof off and go back down to about 2700 .

Any suggestions on getting the darned throttle lever out of the dash without wrecking the t-knob or is this a "surgery in place" item? And to think I only last week reassembled the entire hoodstand, dash, and wiring harness. Sigh.

Edited December 14, 2020 by Handy Don

[WH08205 15]

24 minutes ago, WH08205 said:

Thanks! 

 

Will update my fleedgaurd filter, can't find the black onan one. 

My choice of 5w40 was being able to use same oil all year.  maybe 10w40 would be a better choice. 

Will change to 10w30 in hydro.  Any hard with a 10w40?

Noted on fittings

Will check the nut under seat.

What/where is this rivet? 

Will consider cleaning carb too

I will cross reference for the NGK plug... should i cross reference RS17YX -or- RS14YC?

 

 

Showing NGK TR5 = RS17YX

[Handy Don 12,078]

33 minutes ago, WH08205 said:

 

Will check the nut under seat.

 

The nut controls the friction in the motion control linkage.  Its probably too light and that's why the lever is not holding against the higher pressure of the hydro at full throttle. The owners manual for your tractor covers how to adjust it (see the Files/Manuals section of this site -- I think you have an '88 or '89 so maybe 1988 520-H OM & Wiring?) The nut is accessible through a hole in the seat pan under the seat . I suggest gradual changes with testing between.

[WH08205 15]

3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

The nut controls the friction in the motion control linkage.  Its probably too light and that's why the lever is not holding against the higher pressure of the hydro at full throttle. The owners manual for your tractor covers how to adjust it (see the Files/Manuals section of this site -- I think you have an '88 or '89 so maybe 1988 520-H OM & Wiring?) The nut is accessible through a hole in the seat pan under the seat . I suggest gradual changes with testing between.

Thanks for this extra detail!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,019]

Cross referencing spark plugs should only be used to match up the physical characteristics of the plugs.

If you want to used NGK plugs use their application recommendation because only they know what plug works best. This is often different than what the cross reference shows.

I looked at their online catalog and they show BPR5EFS for the Onan P-Series engines.

 

This is what comes up on a 31-20OE01 search of our library.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=31-20oe01&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

[WH08205 15]

33 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Cross referencing spark plugs should only be used to match up the physical characteristics of the plugs.

If you want to used NGK plugs use their application recommendation because only they know what plug works best. This is often different than what the cross reference shows.

I looked at their online catalog and they show BPR5EFS for the Onan P-Series engines.

 

This is what comes up on a 31-20OE01 search of our library.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=31-20oe01&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

Interesting info, thanks for sharing.  Will look into the plugs you reference.  

 

EDIT: I see model 2238 (TR5 or TR5IX) for the P220

 

Edited December 14, 2020 by WH08205

[peter lena 8,564]

who8205, welcome to the site , and nice pick up on the horse , adding my own experience / trials , been using  RISLONE ENGINE OIL PRODUCTS , AND RECCOMEND THEM,  https://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment-100qr/, all of their products , cut and dissolve   engine varnish , like Smokey starts and related engine crud. for me the RISLONE ZINK  additive has been amazingly effective . I immediately noticed the fast darkening of a fresh oil change , also felt the  smoother running of my 3 kohler engines . the engine treatment , added to your oil will instantly  start cutting varnish , i use a couple of ounces for oil in kohlers , this just my own experience , but added to your baseline verification service , can really help out , if i offended you in any way by suggesting  this additive , that was not my intent , good luck with your horse , rislone at walmart . pete 

[WH08205 15]

1 minute ago, peter lena said:

who8205, welcome to the site , and nice pick up on the horse , adding my own experience / trials , been using  RISLONE ENGINE OIL PRODUCTS , AND RECCOMEND THEM,  https://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment-100qr/, all of their products , cut and dissolve   engine varnish , like Smokey starts and related engine crud. for me the RISLONE ZINK  additive has been amazingly effective . I immediately noticed the fast darkening of a fresh oil change , also felt the  smoother running of my 3 kohler engines . the engine treatment , added to your oil will instantly  start cutting varnish , i use a couple of ounces for oil in kohlers , this just my own experience , but added to your baseline verification service , can really help out , if i offended you in any way by suggesting  this additive , that was not my intent , good luck with your horse , rislone at walmart . pete 

Pete - no offense at all.  Thank you for your recommendation, i will look into this product!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,019]

I see a NGK item 2223 also so this warrants more research.

 

Garry

[WH08205 15]

1 minute ago, gwest_ca said:

I see an item 2223 also so this warrants more research.

 

Garry

Found another reference. One is a member here using TR5

[Rich16 32]

I'm in esteemed company here but I'll offer my 2 cents. BTW - Lynnmor has helped me countless times as have others - take what he says to the bank!

 

You have a great machine - I've been using WH's since 1985 (416-8) and have a couple years experience with 520h's and love 'em - I personally like the 520 series best for power, ease of operation, and smooth.

 

There's always a lot of discussion about various 'what to use' so much so you can get overwhelmed - most importantly do the obvious - change/check the oil (type doesn't matter except for extreme cold), don't worry about the smoke - it's normal for these on startup - and keep the grass off the blower housing intake and don't let it get clogged over while mowing - probably the main reason people have rear cylinder issues due to reduced cooling. If your machine is running nicely whatever you're using is great!

 

You ask about blades - find and use the stock WH or Toro blades - you'll pay more but you'll be happy - the edge lasts longer and they're heavier than aftermarket. I've bought extra sets to keep on hand.

 

You may know what your machine is capable of but to illustrate - I've just mowed (twice since this summer) 20 acres of pasture post bush-hog - tuff field grass around 6+" tall - the guy who tractor bush hogged it said I was crazy when I told him I was going to finish mow it all with my 'lawn tractor' - WH's aren't common around here He's a believer now and had to see the machine up close - 48" deck.

 

These pix are a couple days ago - grass 6" deep and this is around 1/4 of it all - couldn't get the one field in the frame. Took 4-5 half days to do all 20 acres. If you have a 'yard' of 5 acres or less piece of cake - and a 42" deck is no load on the machine at all. Still having to mow in December in Tennessee - crazy.

[Handy Don 12,078]

3 minutes ago, Rich16 said:

You may know what your machine is capable of but to illustrate - I've just mowed (twice since this summer) 20 acres of pasture post bush-hog - tuff field grass around 6+" tall - the guy who tractor bush hogged it said I was crazy when I told him I was going to finish mow it all with my 'lawn tractor' - WH's aren't common around here He's a believer now and had to see the machine up close - 48" deck.

 

These pix are a couple days ago - grass 6" deep and this is around 1/4 of it all - couldn't get the one field in the frame. Took 4-5 half days to do all 20 acres. If you have a 'yard' of 5 acres or less piece of cake - and a 42" deck is no load on the machine at all. Still having to mow in December in Tennessee - crazy.

Nice recap and illustration, @Rich16. I am curious about your fuel consumption for this effort--moderate load over an extended period of time.  I know it wasn't a strain on the 520-H  and you certainly got some seat time!

[WH08205 15]

8 minutes ago, Rich16 said:

I'm in esteemed company here but I'll offer my 2 cents. BTW - Lynnmor has helped me countless times as have others - take what he says to the bank!

 

You have a great machine - I've been using WH's since 1985 (416-8) and have a couple years experience with 520h's and love 'em - I personally like the 520 series best for power, ease of operation, and smooth.

 

There's always a lot of discussion about various 'what to use' so much so you can get overwhelmed - most importantly do the obvious - change/check the oil (type doesn't matter except for extreme cold), don't worry about the smoke - it's normal for these on startup - and keep the grass off the blower housing intake and don't let it get clogged over while mowing - probably the main reason people have rear cylinder issues due to reduced cooling. If your machine is running nicely whatever you're using is great!

 

You ask about blades - find and use the stock WH or Toro blades - you'll pay more but you'll be happy - the edge lasts longer and they're heavier than aftermarket. I've bought extra sets to keep on hand.

 

You may know what your machine is capable of but to illustrate - I've just mowed (twice since this summer) 20 acres of pasture post bush-hog - tuff field grass around 6+" tall - the guy who tractor bush hogged it said I was crazy when I told him I was going to finish mow it all with my 'lawn tractor' - WH's aren't common around here He's a believer now and had to see the machine up close - 48" deck.

 

These pix are a couple days ago - grass 6" deep and this is around 1/4 of it all - couldn't get the one field in the frame. Took 4-5 half days to do all 20 acres. If you have a 'yard' of 5 acres or less piece of cake - and a 42" deck is no load on the machine at all. Still having to mow in December in Tennessee - crazy.

 

Rich - appreciate all of your input.  I have to say, i've been on many car forums over the years and never have i ever had this many replies with valuable information is such a short period of time.  It is truly appreciated.  

 

Thanks for the compliment on the 520, I really like it.  Noted on oil weight, keeping things clean and blades.  Will look up the oem blade part numbers.

 

That looks like one heck of a field to mow.  You say if i have less than 5 acres, haha... i'm about 1/4 acre of weekly mowing and 2.5k sq ft of driveway to plow IF we get a little snow (near ocean in South Jersey).  This WH is going to have a very easy life go forward!    

 

[Rich16 32]

Thanks everyone and this group of fellow WH'ers is invaluable and a great bunch & will help you with anything. Yes - you'll never have trouble mowing your yard with this!!

 

Handy Don - I've experienced and read on the forum about 'excess' fuel consumption and my 520 is no exception and is a guzzler but maybe not for what it's doing? - hmmmm - I'm guessing maybe 12-15 gallons to do everything? Have two 5 gallon rubbermaid style (older type - can't stand the newer ones) and use alcohol-free regular or premium on a whim (can't tell any difference between 'em but am an alcohol free believer). Seems I've gone thru two of 'em while doing it all - will pay attention next time but it consumes a lot.

 

Hard to overemphasize what this is mowing (referencing the ease of it) - this grass is 'untamed' and a testament to this machine - with the 48" deck in the heavier areas it hits 100% on the engine gauge though I'm moving along at 1/2 speed or more in the tuff stuff - I won't run it there for more than 10-20 sec though and will slow down to not overtax. I change/resharpen blades every other complete mow. Am hoping eventually it'll get less tough and easier - this is a 'virgin' farm that was let go of and had tough weeds/grass 5' tall when we bought it.

 

I also find myself holding the 'forward' lever thru most of this - might attempt an adjust though it doesn't bother me. A Lowes or modern stamped frame mower would have died a dozen deaths every year with what I've accomplished with my machines - love 'em! Also have the tiller & other accessories - amazing what it'll till.

 

My motivations to do this were simple - I knew what the 520 was capable of and got charged 1800-2200 for EACH bush hog of all 20 acres (800-1000/acre seems the going rate around here) and was looking at X3 each season - not interested and it looks soooooo much better mowed. I'd rather buy 2 more nice WH's each season and do this than pay someone else - and I really enjoy it - very relaxing.

[Rich16 32]

WH20805 - I buy my blades off Amazon from Outdoor Power Equipment for $34 a set for the 48" deck.

 

The ones you need are: Toro 106636 Blade Kit (42" side discharge) and are available for $30/set from the Toro Store on Amazon.

[WH08205 15]

3 minutes ago, Rich16 said:

WH20805 - I buy my blades off Amazon from Outdoor Power Equipment for $34 a set for the 48" deck.

 

The ones you need are: Toro 106636 Blade Kit (42" side discharge) and are available for $30/set from the Toro Store on Amazon.

Found them, thanks! 

 

They are described a long / low lift.  Has anyone used high lift blades with any success?  this is what i use on my commercial walk behind.

[lynnmor 7,294]

I'm only mowing about 3 acres and found that a 60" deck works just fine.  With more room in the cutting chamber the grass clears out quickly and the horsepower requirement may not be any more than the 48".  If you are mowing such a large lot, consider moving to a 60" deck.   I now moved to a zero turn to save both time and the WH tractors.

[ebinmaine 67,121]

Just wanted to pop in and say

 

 

 

All our machines at the acreage are older ("new" is 1974) so I can't offer much but it looks like there's a ton of great info being shared. Also great to see you already have a full plan ahead!!

 

@JCM here's another one of your new fangled machines.   

[JCM 9,129]

Other than they are thirsty I would never say a bad word about them. Bought mine from a friend 19 years ago with around 400 hours and now around 900 with ZERO issues.Flawless 4 season machine. The 3 Kohler twins I have also consume fuel in the same manner. Keep em inside, dry & well maintained and they will keep you happy for a long time.