New 520H Owner

[lynnmor 7,354]

1 hour ago, WH08205 said:

This sure looks like the simplest method without making permanent modifications to the guard.  You mentioned 1st summer, have you since modified and reinstalled?

Did you notice that he sawed the guard in half and tossed the right half along with the mounting bracket?

[WH08205 15]

sorry no, i thought it remove the front section.  Got it now tho. 

[Lee1977 6,803]

1 hour ago, WH08205 said:

This sure looks like the simplest method without making permanent modifications to the guard.  You mentioned 1st summer, have you since modified and reinstalled?

I cut the front section off as in the picture. I'm "Old School" grew up with open sided tractors.

[Rich16 32]

Guards are there for a purpose (obviously) but I did the easiest - just took it off - 3 screws, two nuts, and 5 minutes.

 

The difference in rear cylinder airflow is amazing and you don't have to check for fin clogging - just look at it - though I've never had any clogging of fins issue.

 

Not recommended unless the one who took it off pays some attention and understands why it's there & is the only one to run it - it's just me so I'm worried enough to pay attention.

 

Lynnmor's probably right that it mostly doesn't matter but I'm pushing mine pretty hard and don't want to lose any of 'em - not taking any chances given it's a known issue & could lose 1500hrs of useable service.

 

The last 520h I bought from a guy in Missouri that I'm fixing the crossthreaded oil filter assembly also had a 416h Onan and spit the rear seat - I've got that one too now & 1st contact with one for real.

 

He talked quite a bit about how he didn't like the 520 (with a very nice 60" deck) and hated that he screwed up his 416 that he really liked - said he was probably overdoing it and then something went wrong. Yep.

 

I don't want that something wrong ever - though it won't stop me from checking the intake where clogging seriously reduces airflow & always happens.

 

 

[Chestnut 315]

On 12/14/2020 at 3:32 PM, ebinmaine said:

@WH08205

Do you have access to NON ETHANOL fuel? 

 

On 12/14/2020 at 4:01 PM, WH08205 said:

Not that i am aware of.  I can search online though. 

 

On 12/14/2020 at 4:05 PM, ebinmaine said:

https://www.pure-gas.org/

 

 

It's very important for several different reasons to try as best you can not to use ethanol in ANY small engine.  Especially in an older one that you want to try to keep...

I generally agree with ebinmaine about the trouble with ethanol. I haven't gotten to the point of using it all the time though. I do run all the engines out of the 10% pump gas and start them up with ethanol free before putting them away for anything over a month. Like everyone else, the issue is availability, and for me also cost. The blue and orange big box stores stock ethanol free but only in quarts and 110 oz. Not sure whether to laugh or cry at the thought of feeding an Onan gas at $5.98 a quart! Then a friend mentioned he'd gotten some race gas at one of the local stations (which is listed on the link ebinmaine provided), but it is leaded gas which is probably better for the pre-1980 engines, but call me a green fanatic I went on a quest for Lead free alcohol free. Last time I was in one of the local lumber/hardware/equipment rental stores I saw the same canned gas they carry at the big boxes but in a 5 gal can. I was in a hurry and didn't catch the price. 

I also tracked back to the race gas supplier and they have a station finder that shows where you can find any of their many grades of race gas. Lists whether it's in cans or pump. They also have lots of different grades, lead/no, alcohol/no, some with high enough octane to tolerate that Onan with 14:1 compression, turbo, and nitrous. No stations with unleaded near me, but three near my mother in law's near Augusta Maine that sell their Optima grade, recommended for small engines. They claim a three year shelf life!?

"When stored in air-tight, opaque fuel containers, the shelf life of Sunoco Optima is in excess of three years."

The leaded race fuel was a bit over $9 a gallon at the pump, the unleaded Optima is about $70 for a 5 gallon can on their web site. 

 

https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuels/compare-fuels?fid=26

https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,413]

@Chestnut

 

Not sure how you travel from your place to up north... There's a place in Springvale Maine now. 

A bit out of the way maybe but could be worth the effort considering they're under $3.00/gallon last I knew. 

 

Run up 202 out of Rochester and go across 111 onto 95...

[Chestnut 315]

24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@Chestnut

 

Not sure how you travel from your place to up north... There's a place in Springvale Maine now. 

A bit out of the way maybe but could be worth the effort considering they're under $3.00/gallon last I knew. 

 

Run up 202 out of Rochester and go across 111 onto 95...

You've got my attention. I've made the trek through Sanford many times but usually just take the turnpike unless I'm trying to avoid the Mass. migration. About $6 in tolls but usually an hour less travel time. Made the five hour round trip twice in a week recently. May need to pack all the cans on a future trip and take the scenic route. $3 a gallon sounds a lot better than $9 or $15 or $24. Onans don't exactly sip gas.

Then I have to think about explaining why now it's OK to get 10-15 gallons when I've been harping so long about only keeping a few weeks' supply on hand.

 

[ebinmaine 68,413]

1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

Then I have to think about explaining why now it's OK to get 10-15 gallons when I've been harping so long about only keeping a few weeks' supply on hand.

That's a pretty easy one to explain really.

As many of us are well aware ethanol causes gasoline to have a very short shelf life.

 

I don't know what the actual number is so I don't want to mislead you here but I've personally had non-ethanol gas in machines for six or nine months and had no issue starting them right up...

 

I've been in the habit of taking about 12 gallons at a time.

I think this lasts us anywhere between two and four months depending on the season and how much snow we are getting...

 

[Handy Don 12,467]

@ebinmaine pretty soon you'll be the reason for bringing back "moonshine" tanks!

[Kevinm 23]

I also picked up a 1988 520 two years ago with about 1100 hours on it. Mine smokes a little on start up but runs fine after. I repainted mine last fall with PPG single stage Polyurethane. This is the paint code if you plan to paint it. If you spend the time to prep fopr paint it makes sense to use good painr instead of Rustoleum. all the paint material ran about $160. I also put LED lights in front and back.  I have a 48 inch deck and a plow for mine.

[haydendavid380 759]

In regards to the non ethanol fuel, every walmart/Murphys gas station I've seen has had it that I've seen, and they aren't always on the pure gas site.

 

Usually runs about 30 cents higher.  Gas it for $2.39 last week

[ebinmaine 68,413]

1 hour ago, haydendavid380 said:

In regards to the non ethanol fuel, every walmart/Murphys gas station I've seen has had it that I've seen, and they aren't always on the pure gas site.

 

Usually runs about 30 cents higher.  Gas it for $2.39 last week

 

Different laws up here I think.

Never seen it or ANY gas at Wally world. Some convenient stores have it ... Not widespread. 

[WH08205 15]

Okay guys - been a couple months since i posted when i first got the 520.  

 

Pretty much everything i mentioned before has been done.  I am not fighting random electrical issues.  

Engine oil / filter

Hydro oil / filter

air filter / pre filter

spark plugs, proper gap

fuel filter

drive belt

new blades

new gas cap

new seat support

new front tires

degreased frame, panels

cleaned up rust and flaking paint

clear coated for rust protection

replaced a bunch of missing and/or rusted hardware

 

 

After i did all this i did some very light plowing for snow, started right up, ran fine (maybe a little rich - comment below).  Since then i've been having a headache of electrical issues.

 

I turn the key, sometimes i get the oil light flashing, sometimes i get the ebrake light on (if engaged).  Sometimes i get nothing.  

If i get a any lights, i can continue to turn and it starts or i get nothing.  I have yet to have a time where IF it cranks it doesn't start.  

If it does start, it is running rich.  I get the little puff of smoke which i'm not concerned with but after running for a little bit its a STRONG odor of fuel.  I plan on cleaning the carb but open to other advice. 

If anything works and i turn the light switch on, everything shuts off and stops working.

Test switch does nothing.

 

I have removed and cleaned grounds in the following locations:

1. Ground terminal on battery (and positive side)

2. Ground connection at other end of battery negative on left side of tractor / engine to frame bolt

3. Ground next to PTO and fuses on right side of battery

4. Ground between starter and solenoid

 

I have confirmed the following fuses are good:

1. 30 amp by solenoid

2. 20 amp to right of battery

3. 10 amp to right of battery

 

I have tested the following switches, with a meter, to confirm they are functioning.  All of these terminals were cleaned and use dielectric grease.

1. Seat switch

2. PTO switch

3. Neutral Switch

4. E Brake Switch

 

Battery is consistently reading 12.6 - 12.8 volts.  I am also keeping on a tender just to be safe.  With the tender i am reading 13.3 volts.

 

I ran a direct line ground from the regulator to the negative side of the battery incase that was a poor ground.  I also replaced the regulator with new.  

 

I have unplugged and plugged back in the ignition hardness on the back of the switch multiple times to ensure it is "clean".

 

I discovered the following i haven't addressed yet:

1. bulb wire for the vacuum gauge is broken off the back of the bulb.

2. wire terminal connect at bottom of tach is very loose.

3. I am sure i'll find more.... 

 

I have the Demystification guide pages 7-119 thru 7-125 printed on 11x17 paper and am checking off things i go through.  

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated.  

[WH08205 15]

Going to have the battery tested, to be sure.

Test the ignition switch next

Then check the fuse box and bypass with new fuse holders

[lynnmor 7,354]

I would start with the engine connector, then the ignition switch.  If you have the four position fuse block, they are available for cheap at some auto parts stores and RockAuto.

 

Remove the carburetor and clean it properly.  Download the Onan manual for instructions.

[WH08205 15]

Here are the fuses I was speaking about, only 2, not a block.  Next to pto switch. 
 

engine connector meaning 9 pin?

[lynnmor 7,354]

Since you said "fuse box" I thought that you may have the troublesome fuse block, what you have should be simple to check.

 

Yes, the 9 pin connector needs to be checked thoroughly.  Ignition switches are available at places like NAPA, be aware that there are several different types that all look the same.

[WH08205 15]

Fuses test fine. Will check the holders next. 
 

located the 9 pin, will test that too.

 

found a 5 pin, 3 position ignition at Lowe’s. 

[lynnmor 7,354]

5 minutes ago, WH08205 said:

found a 5 pin, 3 position ignition at Lowe’s. 

There should be a letter next to each terminal, be sure they match.

[WH08205 15]

Got it. Will do.  

[WH08205 15]

Letters do not match.  Would a solution be to cut off the oem plug, add female terminal connectors and plug on to the correctly labeled terminal?

[WH08205 15]

Update.  Seems to be working, and it started.  
 

3 observations

1. still running rich - carb clean

2. tach stopped working- tightened that lose connection on the back and it stopped.  Fuse??

3. turning the lights on stalls the motor.??

 

 

[WH08205 15]

Started again, let it run for a little and tried the light switch again.  Killed the motor and now I get nothing with key turned and no crank attempt to start. 

[lynnmor 7,354]

You have a really bad connection somewhere.  It still could be the ignition switch if you are using the old one, buy the proper switch at NAPA if you have any doubt about the switch.

[WH08205 15]

that’s what I’m thinking.  
 

I went thru and tested all grounds then back to the negative terminal on the battery and all give me the audible connection on a meter. 

I have 2 Napa’s close. Does anyone have the model number for the 3 position, 5 terminal with the proper configuration?