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Best engine??

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WheelhorseBob

312-8 and 310-8 both failed. Replaced with aftermarket due to cost, two of those failed. The ones I have now work but take forever to get fuel to the carb if the tractor sits. I’ve tried closing the fuel shut off’s etc.  I think Kohlers should probably be converted to electric. I should say Kohlers with fuel tanks below ( under seat pan) carb level. 

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SylvanLakeWH

@WheelhorseBob maybe try a marine style in line primer bulb... works great, cheap and easy...!

 

:twocents-02cents:

 

Here’s mine...

 

2C1319F1-9B57-4517-A9A5-F7DE641CCB36.jpeg

CA816C47-08BC-4891-B6E7-FB9222C4F609.jpeg

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Gregor

"here are a couple of my all original horses"

 

OK  I know very little about Wheel Horse tractors. I'll be the first to admit it. Are those square headlights original?

 

As a side note. If my C-141 doesn't start like it should next spring, I have an electric fuel pump on hand.

Edited by Gregor

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Bill D
56 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said:

My first horse had a 16 horse Briggs. It ran every time with no issues. Those opposed twin Briggs’s are great and foolish me sold it cause it wasn’t a real Wheel Horse, it was a Work Horse! Now I own Kohlers and Onans. Besides the absolutely junk Kohler fuel pumps I like them all.

Consider something like this for a fuel pump.  The pump in the picture is a Kawasaki.  I would recommend the Briggs pump 808656.  Works good.  Bill

KIMG0868.JPG

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, Gregor said:

"here are a couple of my all original horses"

 

OK  I know very little about Wheel Horse tractors. I'll be the first to admit it. Are those square headlights original?

 

As a side note. If my C-141 doesn't start like it should next spring, I have an electric fuel pump on hand.

 

Those lights are not original, no. 

 

I've got 4 of the primer bulbs on order. 

Need one for Cinnamon Horse for sure. 

They can be had for less than $5 each delivered. 

 

@WheelhorseBob that might be a solution too. 

 

 

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WheelhorseBob
23 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

@WheelhorseBob maybe try a marine style in line primer bulb... works great, cheap and easy...!

 

:twocents-02cents:

 

Here’s mine...

 

2C1319F1-9B57-4517-A9A5-F7DE641CCB36.jpeg

CA816C47-08BC-4891-B6E7-FB9222C4F609.jpeg

I love it when someone comes up with a KISS solution! It’s one of those “why didn’t I think of that” moments!

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said:

I love it when someone comes up with a KISS solution! It’s one of those “why didn’t I think of that” moments!

LOTS of that on here. 

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Greentored
On 12/11/2020 at 5:06 PM, jabelman said:

Wow! No predator fans our there, haha

Gonna sound like a broken record here, because any time someone asks about a Predator it turns into 'story time with green':lol:

We ran the 212s on karts in a 'run whatcha brung' class.  Mine had a punched out carb, pipe, heavier valve springs, governor removed, advanced timing, .100 off the head ( lost half the first cooling fin haha), STOCK internals including the cast aluminum rod and cam with PLASTIC gear. 93 octane fuel and Mobil 1 5w20, changed weekly. Buzzed it 5500-5800rpms one, often two nights per week at 100+ laps per night, I replaced it THIRTEEN MONTHS later, only because it was getting tired and wouldn't run up front anymore.  Yes, some guys grenaded them- normally the ones who did not remove governor guts, warm them up, did not change oil and/or ran cheap off the shelf OR high dollar, water consistency racing oil. (this is not an oil discussion, I know ha)

The aftermarket is jam packed with cams, billet rods, flywheels, carbs, billet heads, etc...  throw a cam, rod, flywheel and 13hp carb on one and hello 13-14hp and 7500rpms- and this MIGHT set you back 3-400 bucks.

They are an EXCELLENT engine, no not just 'excellent for the price' either. Cant even imagine how long they'd last being used like they were intended, and IF it didn't, chuck it out and drop 129 bucks for a replacement:lol:

****SAFETY DISCLAIMER- seriously!!!!!!!!!!****** incase anyone reads this and thinks about hopping one up- DO NOT turn these 6000+ with a stock flywheel, they can throw magnets or worse!!!!

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WHNJ701

I do plan on trying a predator 8hp/301 and putting it in a 1968 Sears garden tractor.  

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Maxwell-8

No chinese engine's in wheelhorses please!  And i know Kohler makes there engines in china too :unsure:

Edited by Maxwell-8
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WheelhorseBob

Do these chicom engines have ball bearings that can handle the axial thrust of a Wheel Horse PTO? If not the conversation ends. Just my 2 pennies. 

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Maxwell-8
6 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Do these chicom engines have ball bearings that can handle the axial thrust of a Wheel Horse PTO? If not the conversation ends. Just my 2 pennies. 

They do, but if they can handle the axial trust, i don't know

Edited by Maxwell-8
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Maxwell-8

I'm trying to located a good used Yanmar L100 diesel. It's just hard to find them here in Belgium.

As far as i know, one of the only brands still keeping production out of china. 

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WVHillbilly520H

My last comment in thread, I just wanted to say my opinion and experiences are mine and I am NOT trying to force them on anyone, we all like what we like, and if we ALL liked ALL the same things/brands/sports teams ect (other than Wheel Horse in this instance), then this world would be very DULL and BORING and I believe we can call agree on that, and I will end on that note nothing further needs to be said on my part.

Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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cschannuth
On 12/16/2020 at 6:05 AM, Greentored said:

Gonna sound like a broken record here, because any time someone asks about a Predator it turns into 'story time with green':lol:

We ran the 212s on karts in a 'run whatcha brung' class.  Mine had a punched out carb, pipe, heavier valve springs, governor removed, advanced timing, .100 off the head ( lost half the first cooling fin haha), STOCK internals including the cast aluminum rod and cam with PLASTIC gear. 93 octane fuel and Mobil 1 5w20, changed weekly. Buzzed it 5500-5800rpms one, often two nights per week at 100+ laps per night, I replaced it THIRTEEN MONTHS later, only because it was getting tired and wouldn't run up front anymore.  Yes, some guys grenaded them- normally the ones who did not remove governor guts, warm them up, did not change oil and/or ran cheap off the shelf OR high dollar, water consistency racing oil. (this is not an oil discussion, I know ha)

The aftermarket is jam packed with cams, billet rods, flywheels, carbs, billet heads, etc...  throw a cam, rod, flywheel and 13hp carb on one and hello 13-14hp and 7500rpms- and this MIGHT set you back 3-400 bucks.

They are an EXCELLENT engine, no not just 'excellent for the price' either. Cant even imagine how long they'd last being used like they were intended, and IF it didn't, chuck it out and drop 129 bucks for a replacement:lol:

****SAFETY DISCLAIMER- seriously!!!!!!!!!!****** incase anyone reads this and thinks about hopping one up- DO NOT turn these 6000+ with a stock flywheel, they can throw magnets or worse!!!!


I’ve told this story somewhere in here before but my respect for the 212 Predator comes from a mini-bike my brother bought from a farm store. It has the Predator in it. I’m super picky and anal with my stuff. To say my brother is the opposite of that is an understatement. He’s had that mini-bike for over ten years and it’s never, NEVER had an oil change. It drives me absolutely nuts but it still starts and runs flawlessly.
 

Because of that, when I picked up a clean 606 roller a few years ago it was a no brainer for me to use the $99 Predator my dad had sitting on a shelf in his basement.   It’s one of my main workhorses and has power to spare, even with the over sized pulley I installed on the engine. 
 

With regard to the PTO, I run my WH 3500W generator off this tractor and that puts a lot of axial load on the PTO with no issue. And the 6.5 horses of hemi handles the generator easily. 


it’s a good engine at any price. At $99 it’s a great engine.  Before anyone gets aggravated with me, I love my Kohlers, Briggs, amd Onans too.  Haha 

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Horse Newbie

I say "Run what ya brung" !

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WHX??
On 12/10/2020 at 10:01 AM, Bens vintage tractors said:

@Skipper  I’m a huge single cylinder diesel fan.. 

Might have missed this one then Ben......

 

 

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Bens vintage tractors
30 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Might have missed this one then Ben......

 

 

@WHX24 that’s pretty slick

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WHX??

It taint mine Ben it's Achto's but yeah.... seat time is unreal! Always have to make sure you have to start off in third @ WOT ....:lol:

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Maxwell-8
On 12/10/2020 at 4:46 AM, Bens vintage tractors said:

The k series kohlers are the best engines in the wheel horses (my opinion) here are a couple of my all original horses 

81F1AD67-5CA4-478C-8BDB-B56BA84FCB50.jpeg

Yanmar L100  :occasion-unclesam:

 

But gas: Kohler every day, cast iron blocks are hard to beat. And they run SOOOO smooth MADE in the USA

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tbear853

I have had Kohlers, old flat heads that ran OK, but were just not enough.  I currently have a Briggs & Stratton 16hp Vangard V-twin, my second.  Oil filters, iron bore liners, OHV, ball bearing PTO end,  what's not to like. 

It's my second, I learned with the first to pull the tin & clean the fins ever so often, and while it may look goofy, the 8" slip on stove pipe elbow with screen on top on the flywheel cover greatly reduces fin blockage from grass kicked up by the left front tire.  First one started smoking after 9 years, this one was put in September 1st, 2005, runs like a top too and it's 16 hp with 48" deck will consistently cut my yard on half the gas used by the OEM 8hp Kohler with 36" deck, and do it quicker.

 

And this one does not smoke or use oil to fret over. I have replaced both  heads on the first one due to guides letting go ... due to overheat ... due to build up of grass in the fins so often, I could clean the fins, mow once or twice ... and it would need a cleaning just that soon.  

Repowering with the second one of "same" in 2005 saved my air cleaner & exhaust & fuel pump and misc spares, plugs, filters, etc.  I did have to rob the starter off the old Vangard  for this one a few years ago.

Got a new elbow I'm gonna paint. I made a steel ring of 1x1/8 strap that has 4 tabs to bolt to tin, the elbow slips over it, has a peg, and a large hose clamp.   And yes, I fabbed exhaust & intake air cleaner, but as one mows it's easy to just reach forwards and brush any grass off the screen.  I think the very open slots of the first engine's recoil starter allowed too much grass to get into it.  The finer mesh screen was flatter, but then it clogged up.  

Was a cool day when this pic was taken, she wanted to mow ... but then she  got cold and layered up.  If the rest of the tractor keeps up, I'll probably repower with another some day.  I thought about more power, but I have no need for that.  I do like the idea of an oil cooler like is on the predators, but doesn't seam to be an issue. 

 

 

0525201514 (640x472).jpg

Edited by tbear853
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slim67

The Vanguards are good engines. The 72 inch Hustler I mow grass with at work has one and it runs great. 

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Bens vintage tractors
On 12/24/2020 at 7:32 AM, Maxwell-8 said:

Yanmar L100  :occasion-unclesam:

 

But gas: Kohler every day, cast iron blocks are hard to beat. And they run SOOOO smooth MADE in the USA

@Maxwell-8 I’ve got a few diesel wheel horses by far my favorite engine period but stock engines kohlers get it in my book

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Maxwell-8
1 hour ago, Bens vintage tractors said:

@Maxwell-8 I’ve got a few diesel wheel horses by far my favorite engine period but stock engines kohlers get it in my book

 

They are great when used, but I have nothing but carb problems, That ethanol is eating fuelhoses, tanks, carbs and all there parts, fuel filters, even fuel shutoff valves. Then they fill the carb back up. A jairly tradition, to redo the hole fuelsystem on every machine.

 

We haven't had any problems with diesels yet. knock on wood!

 

Edited by Maxwell-8
Correcting autocorrection

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adsm08
On 12/10/2020 at 9:32 AM, bds1984 said:


For me it is the awful carburetors on them.  Every single one of them I've ever worked on were terrible no matter the fuel used or who owned them.

 

I am told that if you take the main needle out of a Tech carb to look for a little machined divot near the tip with a black dot. If you find it, clean clean clean clean, because that is supposed to be a port, not a dot.

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