No axle seal ??

[Greenhorse 15]

I noticed my rear axle was leaking so after removing the hub I noticed that the needle bearing was loose but I did not see a axle seal. Has anyone ever experienced this or can help me ? This is my first Wheel Horse so I’m kind of learning as I go. It’s a 310 -8.

I’ve included a photo. Thanks.

[ebinmaine 68,343]

Did you find it like that or pull the bearing yourself??

 

The seal would have been on the outside of that bearing. 

If it was a replacement by a PO and it was ALL rubber I've seen them deteriorated to near nothing. 

[pfrederi 17,866]

Needle bearings are a press /interference fit. You should not be able to pull it out by hand.

[stevasaurus 22,863]

Right, we need some more background here.  It may be fixable without opening the transmission...if all the needles are in the bearing.  Take the bearing the rest of the way off and take a good lookin that axle shaft.  What does the other side look like??  

[oliver2-44 9,858]

I'm following on to learn something on this one myself.

[lynnmor 7,354]

Pull the bearing and measure the O.D. to see if that is correct.  If the bearing measurement is correct and the axle is smooth where the bearing rides, you could try using Loctite 609 to retain the bearing.  If the bore in the housing is just too large, then replacement is the fix.

[Greenhorse 15]

Yes, the needle bearing was mostly out. It worked itself out and I’ve only had the 310 for a couple weeks when I noticed this. It had been leaking and there was no seal whatsoever so you’re probably right about the old one just disintegrating.Some of the needles, about five, were missing. Hopefully they just fell off into the yard,and I used a wire pick to fish around inside the best I could for any inside the axle area. I did order a replacement needle bearing, part number 1528, and a new oil seal part number 100863. I was able to get everything back together  and running. So far so good. Thanks for all the advice. Now if I can get the transmission plug off. 😕I don’t know if it’s stripped or what but it looks like a three-quarter circle with a straight line on the rest of it. Any tips?

[ebinmaine 68,343]

Any chance of cleaning up the plug and gettin a pic or 2?

[Greenhorse 15]

[ebinmaine 68,343]

Look like the hitch tab has been in contact with the plug. 

 

Do you have a welder or a small torch?

[Greenhorse 15]

I do have a small torch and I’m pretty sure a couple of the threads are protruding so I might be able to put some vice grips on them. I’m guessing you think I should heat it up a little bit?

[ebinmaine 68,343]

28 minutes ago, Greenhorse said:

I do have a small torch and I’m pretty sure a couple of the threads are protruding so I might be able to put some vice grips on them. I’m guessing you think I should heat it up a little bit?

Without easy access to a welder I'm thinking the best case is to get a pair of NEEDLE NOSE vise grips heat the plug up some and lock the grips on HARD. Use a different tool to turn the vise grips. 

 

[Greenhorse 15]

I will give it a try. Thanks.

[953 nut 55,771]

Glad you were able to get the bearing and seal installed. The drain plug should have been an Allen Wrench socket. If you can manage to get an allen wedged into the hole it may work.

[lynnmor 7,354]

If you can't tap a 1/4" Allen wrench in the hole and get enough grip to remove the plug, you might consider going to the next larger size wrench and grinding a taper on the flats as lead-in.  I have done this numerous times as a tool & die maker because much of the tooling uses hex drive fasteners.  Yes, you might waste a wrench, but you will have it for next time.

 

The hole can be tapped deeper to make the plug flush, or grind down a new plug.  I do a combination of both so as not to make the hex too shallow and allow for future repair tapping of the housing.  Whatever you decide, make sure no hitches or other things contact the plug.

[ebinmaine 68,343]

57 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

If you can't tap a 1/4" Allen wrench in the hole and get enough grip to remove the plug, you might consider going to the next larger size wrench and grinding a taper on the flats as lead-in.  I have done this numerous times as a tool & die maker because much of the tooling uses hex drive fasteners.  Yes, you might waste a wrench, but you will have it for next time.

 

The hole can be tapped deeper to make the plug flush, or grind down a new plug.  I do a combination of both so as not to make the hex too shallow and allow for future repair tapping of the housing.  Whatever you decide, make sure no hitches or other things contact the plug.

That's a good idea. Allen wrenches are dirt cheap. 

 

 

[Greenhorse 15]

I am got lucky on this one guys. I went with the easiest option first and put a little heat on it and was able to loosen it with a pair of vise grips and small pipe used  as leverage. I will definitely use the other advice sent my way in the future if I find myself in  a similar situation.I have the front end raised up  and I am draining the oil now. I read that it can be difficult adding the new oil but I read that somebody inserted a small tube into the dipstick to allow the air to escape. Has anybody tried this technique? Thanks.

[ebinmaine 68,343]

19 minutes ago, Greenhorse said:

I am got lucky on this one guys. I went with the easiest option first and put a little heat on it and was able to loosen it with a pair of vise grips and small pipe used  as leverage. I will definitely use the other advice sent my way in the future if I find myself in  a similar situation.I have the front end raised up  and I am draining the oil now. I read that it can be difficult adding the new oil but I read that somebody inserted a small tube into the dipstick to allow the air to escape. Has anybody tried this technique? Thanks.

Easiest way to add fluid is through the shifter hole. 

While it's drained it's a good idea to do a flush with diesel or K1. 

[Greenhorse 15]

Sounds like a good idea .Can you walk me through the procedure on the flush ? Thank you.

[ebinmaine 68,343]

26 minutes ago, Greenhorse said:

Sounds like a good idea .Can you walk me through the procedure on the flush ? Thank you.

Oh yeah super easy. 

 

Drain old fluid. 

Put plug back and add 2 to 3 qts of diesel or K1. Drive around a little in each gear including L and H of all 4 positions. Do some figure eights to get good floww in all places. 

 

Drain while tilted. 

 

Repeat diesel fill one more time. 

 

Drain and fill with the cheapest 80w90 you can find. 

 

 

[Greenhorse 15]

Great and thanks again .