ebinmaine 67,703 #1 Posted December 3, 2020 My 1970 Charger Hydro is fairly close to being started and run again. In the hydraulics world that I deal with at work there are some machines that need to be filled / purged / bled / refilled.... Is there anything I need to know? Fill it and run it. Refill it? Check it after a certain amount of time? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Herder 2,354 #2 Posted December 3, 2020 In the past I've put some oil or fluid in the filter, topped off the drive unit, start it up and run the unit with pump engaged for a few minutes, recheck the levels and go for a ride. The hydro units seem to purge them self's and don't need to be bled. I've never had any problems with them getting air bound. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #3 Posted December 3, 2020 EB something I do with bone dry systems is to take off the spark plug wire and engage the tranny crank it over some on the starter to get some circulation going. Then start it at idle and recheck after stroking the cylinders and levers. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,165 #4 Posted December 4, 2020 I would have the wheels off the ground and move the motion control back and forth a bunch of times. Let it sit for an hour then do it again along with the lift. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,922 #5 Posted December 4, 2020 You can try the short belt / drill trick. I was amazed the other day playing with a sunstrand on the bench moving the input pulley by hand is enough to make the axles rotate. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,834 #6 Posted December 4, 2020 15 hours ago, JoeM said: after stroking the cylinders and levers. Now that sounds like fun..... 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #7 Posted December 4, 2020 After replacing a cracked manifold on a D-180 and remounting the engine, on start up I had a leak at those finiky double O rings. So of course in order to get to them I had to remove the engine again! So sure enough on removal of the manifold one of the O rings had slipped and was leaking. On re-assembly I'm thinking I dont want to remount the engine and again find a problem .... soooo I dug around and found that a 12 point 11/16 socket would just grab the splined input shaft. Battery drill wouldnt drive it, but my trusty Milwaukee 1/2" electric would so I spun it up (anti-clockwise by the way), and be danged if an O ring was again leaking. (those things give me a fit most every time!) So again with the drill motor driving the pump I finally stopped the leak and could also ck out the function - fwd/rev etc. Do I need to say that now every time I go into a hyd drive, I do a pre-test with the drill/socket 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,165 #8 Posted December 4, 2020 5 hours ago, WHX24 said: Now that sounds like fun..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #9 Posted December 4, 2020 7 hours ago, WHX24 said: Now that sounds like fun..... 1 hour ago, squonk said: But its does ... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites