Crmaverick 91 #1 Posted December 3, 2020 On my 753 I have a bracket that bolts to the rear tool box to lockout the rear hitch bracket for towing. My 704 doesn’t have that hole or bracket, just the lift cable. Wouldn’t towing a loaded trailer without the rear hitch locked out put to much strain on that lift cable? Or is that cable meant to take the weight? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #2 Posted December 3, 2020 23 minutes ago, Crmaverick said: cable meant to take the weight You're fine if it's a good rust free cable. IIFF you don't overload the trailer. And don't tow up hill with much weight. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #3 Posted December 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: You're fine if it's a good rust free cable. IIFF you don't overload the trailer. And don't tow up hill with much weight. Yeah that’s the problem I’m towing heavy loads up hills on bumpy terrain. Did the factory stop making that lock out bracket after 63? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #4 Posted December 3, 2020 Not sure but you might want to consider modifying a trailer like my orange one. I moved the axle back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,923 #5 Posted December 3, 2020 A drawbar hitch would fix that... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #6 Posted December 3, 2020 5 minutes ago, pullstart said: A drawbar hitch would fix that... I did look at those but couldnt find any for the early round hoods, only C series but I’ll try posting an ad, thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #7 Posted December 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Crmaverick said: I did look at those but couldnt find any for the early round hoods, only C series but I’ll try posting an ad, thanks What type transmission is in it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,166 #8 Posted December 3, 2020 C-series hitch is a bolt on. You only need a longer pin and the 2 bushings. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #9 Posted December 3, 2020 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: What type transmission is in it? A 3 speed part number 5025 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #10 Posted December 3, 2020 2 hours ago, squonk said: C-series hitch is a bolt on. You only need a longer pin and the 2 bushings. I tried a c series one but it had about an inch of up and down movement, the bar didn’t seem to mount right and wedge itself to case. Can you lift this one up and down with an inch or so of free play? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,346 #11 Posted December 3, 2020 7 hours ago, Crmaverick said: 1) Yeah that’s the problem I’m towing heavy loads up hills on bumpy terrain. 2) Did the factory stop making that lock out bracket after 63? 1) Yeah that is the problem. If you tow heavy loads on hills with a lightweight tow vehicle sooner or later the laws of physics will kick in and gravity wins every time. 2) That strap wasn't made by the factory. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #12 Posted December 3, 2020 16 minutes ago, Crmaverick said: A 3 speed part number 5025 I would advise you to get rid of the adjustable hitch on that tractor unless you use it for something specific on a regular basis. Also, these tractors are well more than capable of pulling a lot more than they can stop. 4 minutes ago, 953 nut said: PROBLEM. If you tow heavy loads on hills with a lightweight tow vehicle sooner or later the laws of physics will kick in and gravity wins every time For the sake of YOUR SAFETY and everyone around you, you need to figure out the WEIGHT of what it is that you are towing and WHY it's lifting UP on the trailer tongue. I'm not going to tell you I don't push things a little bit but I'm very very well set up with a heavy tractor and especially built trailer. Taking the weight off of your traction and BRAKE tires is EXTREMELY dangerous. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #13 Posted December 3, 2020 Look on ebay and search "wheel horse hitch" Order one of those class 3 bolt on for 57 bucks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #14 Posted December 3, 2020 2 minutes ago, jabelman said: Look on ebay and search "wheel horse hitch" Order one of those class 3 bolt on for 57 bucks That's a good idea. I've been using one of those very hitches for about 3 years now. The bracket piece for the far side of the axle was too light duty for me so I changed it to heavier metal but other than that it has served me well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #15 Posted December 3, 2020 9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I would advise you to get rid of the adjustable hitch on that tractor unless you use it for something specific on a regular basis. Also, these tractors are well more than capable of pulling a lot more than they can stop. For the sake of YOUR SAFETY and everyone around you, you need to figure out the WEIGHT of what it is that you are towing and WHY it's lifting UP on the trailer tongue. I'm not going to tell you I don't push things a little bit but I'm very very well set up with a heavy tractor and especially built trailer. Taking the weight off of your traction and BRAKE tires is EXTREMELY dangerous. im towing a cart of firewood of but it still seems like to much weight for that cable to. I looked at those hitches but they mount into the receiver so the lift cable would still be under tension. Does anyone know if the C series draw bar hitch is supposed to have about an inch of up and down movement if you lift on the tounge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #16 Posted December 3, 2020 Those hitchs bolt right to the transaxle, no cable Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #17 Posted December 3, 2020 Trina and I have two very different tractors that are set up in very different manners. We also have two very different trailers. I literally live on the side of a mountain so I have a better understanding than most about dealing with Hill country. If you have an unweighted tractor and a standard trailer with the axle in the center of the cargo box you CAN NOT safely tow a trailer full of firewood uphill. Trailer MUST be loaded in the front half ONLY to keep ALL the weight on the tongue. The standard issue B or C series hitch mounts at the cross pin at the back of the bottom of the transmission and does have some up and down play, yes. Not sure which hitch it is you're looking at on eBay but they are about a foot wide and bolt to the outside of the square part of the axle housing using four bolts. There is NO movement.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #18 Posted December 3, 2020 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Trina and I have two very different tractors that are set up in very different manners. We also have two very different trailers. I literally live on the side of a mountain so I have a better understanding than most about dealing with Hill country. If you have an unweighted tractor and a standard trailer with the axle in the center of the cargo box you CAN NOT safely tow a trailer full of firewood uphill. Trailer MUST be loaded in the front half ONLY to keep ALL the weight on the tongue. The standard issue B or C series hitch mounts at the cross pin at the back of the bottom of the transmission and does have some up and down play, yes. Not sure which hitch it is you're looking at on eBay but they are about a foot wide and bolt to the outside of the square part of the axle housing using four bolts. There is NO movement.. I did see those to, but I do want to keep my plow mounting Bracket on my axle. It seems like the best option might be the C series draw bar. I tried one and it fit my hitch receiver in the middle. But I had up and down play, which I figured wasn’t normal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,923 #19 Posted December 3, 2020 Disregard the circles.. these two can work in conjunction with each other. Lowell’s cables at WheelHorsePartsAndMore.com are surely up to the job, we have tested that with plenty of rounds of plowing! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #20 Posted December 3, 2020 2 minutes ago, Crmaverick said: I did see those to, but I do want to keep my plow mounting Bracket on my axle. It seems like the best option might be the C series draw bar. I tried one and it fit my hitch receiver in the middle. But I had up and down play, which I figured wasn’t normal. If you have fabrication capabilities and tools it might be best to make what I did for my go-to worker tractor. I made up a set of plow mounts that bolt to the front of the axle so I could use that same hitch. As far as that C series hitch I'm wondering if we're talking about the same thing because it shouldn't have any interference, usage, insertion, or anything else to do with your own except that they share the Cross pin at the bottom. When I speak of up and down movement... The pivot pin at the bottom should have next to zero up and down play. The hitch itself does pivot a little bit. Do you have any pictures of the pieces you are talking about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,711 #21 Posted December 3, 2020 1 minute ago, pullstart said: Disregard the circles.. these two can work in conjunction with each other. Lowell’s cables at WheelHorsePartsAndMore.com are surely up to the job, we have tested that with plenty of rounds of plowing! Awesome job Kevin. Thank you. The hitch to the left is the one that I was talking about for a b or c series. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #22 Posted December 3, 2020 This is the back-end of my Commando 8 I picked up about a year and a half ago. It shows the slot hitch and the draw-bar assembled on the case (same as yours). I swapped in a 6-speed with a limited slip differential, and put the same drawbar / slot hitch combo back on it, as the cases were pretty much the same. I had a problem with my old pin coming out of the 3-speed, so I bought a new one from "Wheel Horse Parts And More", for when I assembled it onto the 6-speed. My drawbar does have a little bit of up-and-down play, but I dont think it is an inch like you said. Worst case, you may be able to adjust the "tongue" that goes under the case, and bend it up a little to reduce the movement. 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crmaverick 91 #23 Posted December 3, 2020 17 minutes ago, 71_Bronco said: This is the back-end of my Commando 8 I picked up about a year and a half ago. It shows the slot hitch and the draw-bar assembled on the case (same as yours). I swapped in a 6-speed with a limited slip differential, and put the same drawbar / slot hitch combo back on it, as the cases were pretty much the same. I had a problem with my old pin coming out of the 3-speed, so I bought a new one from "Wheel Horse Parts And More", for when I assembled it onto the 6-speed. My drawbar does have a little bit of up-and-down play, but I dont think it is an inch like you said. Worst case, you may be able to adjust the "tongue" that goes under the case, and bend it up a little to reduce the movement. yeah that’s exactly what I’m talking about, it may not be an inch, maybe half or a quarter. It pivots on the pin. Is there a reason they made these draw hitches have that pivot play? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #24 Posted December 3, 2020 2 minutes ago, Crmaverick said: yeah that’s exactly what I’m talking about, it may not be an inch, maybe half or a quarter. It pivots on the pin. Is there a reason they made these draw hitches have that pivot play? Probably to take into account any variation in casting sizes and cross-hole location. Plus the hole location and bends in the drawbar itself have manufacturing tolerances. Could just be a stack-up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #25 Posted December 3, 2020 I have used the 854 to pull firewood, carts loaded with rock , log splitter all with the cable slot hitch, no issues use common sense. I had one original lift cable broke but it's to be expected it's over 50 years old. It's simple and cheap to make and repair the cable, some bulk aviation cable and cable crimps. I have replaced all the original lift cables now on the others with new. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites