Setting up a Stack Muffler

[sws@att.net 24]

Putting one of Jim's stack mufflers on my C100 Tractor,  This is what he told me I needed, but anyone know about how long a 1" pipe nipple I need to get the muffler 1- 1 1/2" outside of the tractor.  Also any suggestions of how to get my old muffler connection off the engine after 50 years    More to follow, but would love someone that has done this on the C100 before I break something expensive, going to Tractor Supply to get some parts today (see below from Jim), and you can see pics of my daughter Liz driving the horse below 

 

You will need a 1" pipe nipple long enough to get outside of the hood , you want the muffler to be 1" to 1 1/2" away from the hood so it doesn't burn the paint , and a 1" 90 degree elbow pointed up and the muffler will thread right in , then just tighten the lock ring when you have the muffler tight. , not too tight as it will tight up over time and be a bear if you ever want to take it off , i like the mufflers with the rain caps , i like them at slow speed when the cap sits there opening and closing on every pulse of the motor , let me know if you have any trouble with it , i stand behind everyone that i build 100% , and with over 3000 mufflers out there i must be doing something right with them , and please post pictures when you get it mounted

[WHNJ701 4,165]

Post a close picture of your existing muffler

[sws@att.net 24]

Will do, this afternoon when  get back home   thanks 

 

[ebinmaine 67,703]

I just put a muffler on my 1970 Charger 12 a couple days ago.

I put a 2" double male coming out of the engine which goes into a 45° double female.

The piece I can't answer for sure is the connector between the 45° elbow and your double female 90° elbow.

I would advise that you pick up pieces of pipe that are 4, 5, and 6 inches long. 

Experiment a bit with the lengths that get you where you want to be.

 

 

 

As far as removing the old pipe from the engine, as stated above we would need to see what is there now. The ones I have removed were threaded into the engine.

 

Step 1.  Read disclaimer.

Disclaimer:

It's important to note that you DO run a risk of breakage.

 

Step 2.  Read disclaimer.

 

 

Step 3. The safest way that I know to do it is to get a sawzall or jigsaw involved. Cut the pipe off about 1/2-in away from the engine block and then make several slits in the pipe doing your best to avoid cutting the engine block threads.

 

Step 4. If you've made it this far go back and read the disclaimer just for kicks...

 

Step 5. Use a large punch and hammer and push the pipe into itself away from the engine threads and it should collapse into curled pieces.

 

[ri702bill 8,352]

I agree with just about everything said - with a slight variation on step 5. As I recall, there is a thin wall on the block casting on one side - I prefer to crush the split pipe with a large pair of "Vise Grip" locking pliers - you can crush and twist the pipe at the same time with no impact. Worked like a charm on Dad's 702 .....

Bill

[953 nut 55,332]

@ebinmaine has you covered on the whole project.            All I could add is      .

[Pullstart 62,922]

All I can add, is that in the plumbing world, a “double male” is just called a pipe nipple 

 

In all reality, EB and I both will agree that often times you can tighten a pipe or screw easier than you can loosen it.  Why? Not sure.  It just works.  Try to spin it in 1/8th turn or so then it’ll likely back right out.

[JoeM 7,874]

That is just a standard hacksaw blade I held in hand. Hope it comes out without going to this much work. That turn it in thing works good and worth a try or two.

 

Edited December 1, 2020 by JoeM

[ebinmaine 67,703]

@JoeM

Well done.