A Tecumseh Tale

[ebinmaine 67,932]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I have been watching this video on the Nova 2 ignition module. I don't know.. Doesn't sound like it will work for a 3 leg coil. Hope it does

I don't know if you guys are looking at the same one I tried so take this with a grain of salt. 

 

Quite a while ago I had my local Small engine guy put one of those modules in a Briggs 8 pull start of 1979 vintage and it worked wonderful. Still running today and quite well although we don't use it often.

I ordered a generic version of that same module because I was led to believe that it would work in a small block Tecumseh engine. 

 

Turns out that is true ONLY if it is a pull start type with no charging system.

The extra string of magnets in the flywheel that turns out to be part of the alternator doesn't allow the module to make just one or two sparks...

 

[Gregor 4,847]

When reading the comments under the video, I understood it to mean, the module will work with a 2 leg coil, but not a 3 leg coil. 2 leg coil3 leg coil

[Tractorhead 9,064]

 

you be right Eric, tried it today with no success, it fires several times and not only when needed.

so i dismount it for now.

if there is just a Single magnet in the Flywheel it will work,

but it didn‘t on a E- start Tecky with Charger coils and multiple magnets.

 

ok, so i have it still aside for whatever reason in the future..

However i did today a longer testrun of my Engine after the rework.

It runns nicely and much smoother than before.

also it‘s nearly a non smoker.

 

 

The rattling noise is from the Steering Wheel, my next challenge

Edited January 4, 2021 by Tractorhead

[305 380]

hmmmm...so it only works on single magnet flywheels?  i think someone suggested that

[Tractorhead 9,064]

1 minute ago, 305 said:

hmmmm...so it only works on single magnet flywheels?  i think someone suggested that

 

Yap, i thinkering also that it will become troubles but i just like to give it a Try.

When you change over to a One magnet Flywheel it should work, but than the Charging coil maybe was to weak

to recharge the battery.

 

Another solution will be a external CDI ignition with a separate aftermarket Pickup, 

like the honda monkey engines have or similar, but for now, the points will be kept.

[Gregor 4,847]

well. ya just don't know if ya don't try

[ebinmaine 67,932]

5 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

Another solution will be a external CDI ignition with a separate aftermarket Pickup

There are instructions on the internet to be able to do that with the big block  Tecumseh engines. 

 

Never seen it done with the small blocks but I'd love to know if it could happen...

[Tractorhead 9,064]

6 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

There are instructions on the internet to be able to do that with the big block  Tecumseh engines. 

 

Never seen it done with the small blocks but I'd love to know if it could happen...

 

When you have a pullstart version with the one magnet, it will shurely work.

[ebinmaine 67,932]

4 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

When you have a pullstart version with the one magnet, it will shurely work.

Oh yeah I know. I was talking about the external Mount like the Big blocks have. 

 

 

[Gregor 4,847]

tractorhead.   do have a tecumseh carburetor on your motor?

[Tractorhead 9,064]

2 hours ago, Gregor said:

tractorhead.   do have a tecumseh carburetor on your motor?

 

Yes, there is 

 

setup was as follow:

bowl screw carefully and gently screwed in until lightly resistance can be felt,

than 2 1/2 turn back and voila.

 

idle is set at „ear meter“

 

 

[Gregor 4,847]

When I got home from my errands today, the new crank and points were here, so I started reassembly on the H70. I checked the new crank, seems to be perfect. The key (an actual Tecumseh key, ordered from supplier) fit much tighter into the key way. Had to tap it in with a punch and hammer. As before, during assembly everything was well greased, and or oiled. Everything, even the sump cover was torqued to spec. It's a good thing my wife has all those torque wrenches. I didn't want to have to wonder later on, so I took pictures along the way.

 

New head gasket, and seals. New coil, points, condenser and plug.  I even installed the head and used my new handy dandy timing tool, with the head on to time it.

Motor at TDC.

Motor at .081 BTDC. Light is on

 

Motor at .080 BTDC. Light is off. I can't get it any closer than that.

 

I installed the flywheel. I wanted to see if the starter would turn this thing over without a plug in it. Yes it will. Would not do that before. I install a plug, Will the stater turn it over now? No it won't but very very close. I have the battery charger on the battery now. I still have to put on the carb. Trying to decide between a New Tecumseh carb, or a new Kohler style 13 carb, which according to Norman of isavetractors, will work just fine. I don't know.  Tomorrow will be the day, I hope! I know I am really happy with the way the key fits the crank. MUCH MUCH better. Either it will, or it won't. As long as this has been going on, there are probably odds in Vegas.

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Try the pullstart carefully with the plug in, short thread sparkplug?

it shall have a resistance but never a hard point, that felt it hits anything.

if the compression is well, you definitely need a little force to turn it over.

 

If the Starter is worn, it can be happen, that he was unable to crank the Engine.

but pullstart have to work.

 

 

My startprocedure is like follow

pull the pullstart gently over TDC, than put it back in completely.

Switch on ignition

Now set choke to full, throttle to half and pull strong the pullstart.

 

Why you think you need a new carb?

It‘s up to you but i‘m fine with my Tecky carb, have also a Kohler carb and a Onan carb as spare here,

but the tecky original works, so why change if it is not needed - any indications therefore?

 

If the carb works ( not clogged) it shall fire right up at least on the third pull.

i allway‘s need 2 pulls if i do a cold start.

take your time, double check everything twice and you are good to go.

good luck

Edited January 5, 2021 by Tractorhead

[ebinmaine 67,932]

Great to see you making headway!

 

Couple things come to mind.

As far as your wife and those torque wrenches don't get too concerned if she starts hunting around for them. Just let her know that you are scientifically testing them for appropriate accuracy.

Her frustration at the mislocation and reappropriation of HER torque wrenches should wane almost immediately and morph into standardized great appreciation.

 

 

Also, given appropriate linkage connections either carb should work fine.

I'm NOT a believer in using aftermarket reproduction carburetors.

 

To each their own but I'll stick to rebuilding the originals...

[Gregor 4,847]

 

So waddya think. I don't know if the video will play or not. I have trouble with videos on this site, and I don't know how to change the format into something else, that might work better. It ran for 1/2 hour. Pretty rough at first, but some fiddling with the carb, and it smoothed out . It has an aftermarket Tecumseh carb on it. The longer it ran, the smoother it seemed to get. To be honest, I was afraid to shut it off. As you can see in the video, my socket is still on the flywheel nut. I was optimistic. So much so. that I installed the kill wire, and a temporary throttle cable. So, what was the problem? The slop in the key way on the crank? Was the crank bent? I noticed when I put in the new points in, they seemed to have more spring pressure on the lobe of the cam. Did I have a bad set of points? Was it a combination of everything. Don't know, don't care, it's running.  I put the recoil starter on it to see if I could turn  it over, promptly pulled the rope right out of the pull handle. How many $ do I have wrapped up in this thing?  Again, don't know, don't care. It has a 2nd. life. I figure if my wife can buy all those torque wrenches, I can fix this motor. The shut off valve on the tank drips a bit, hence the paper towel, and it's a brand new valve. If it continues to perform well, it will go back on the 656. The only problem I have now is, I have nothing to do.

[ebinmaine 67,932]

As far as videos go what we should be doing is putting them on YouTube and then posting a link from there to here. 

That way this site doesn't use up any memory.

 

So, nothing to do.....??

 

I can fix that. 

I have more projects going on than I'll ever get done which is perfectly fine with me because we like to stay busy but I would happily share a few with you. 

 

Congratulations on decreasing your level of insanity a few percent by getting that engine running.

 

 

[305 380]

good job getting it running

 

i don't use the stock type fuel shutoff valve since they always leak.  i put a 1/8 NPT to 1/4 barb 90 degree fitting in the tank and then use an inline valve

 

nothing to do?  i have a pile of H60's here you can work on

[Gregor 4,847]

i have a pile of H60's here you can work on

•  

 

• Why do some have so much, while others have so little?
• One other thing I did, I forgot to mention. In one of the many videos I watched on timing a Tecumseh, the guy had the wires off of the points, but had the nut on the points and snugged up. He claimed it could make a difference in your setting. I don't know if that's true, but I did it anyway.
• I replaced the pull handle on my recoil starter, wound the spring another turn, and sprayed it with some PB Blaster. Didn't help. The recoil only has one starter dog on it. My motor has 100 psi plus compression, when spinning it with the drill. With the starter cup being off center, it just won't work. I have to find a good 12v starter,or have mine rebuilt. I'm a little afraid of ebay starters, but I might have to go that route.

•  
• Quote

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Congrats, you make it sucessfully running again.

On idle it sounds little bit too high for my opinion, but the Engine sounds great.

 

what do you meant with nothing to do...

 

Take a longer seattime and have a great testride...

 

 

[305 380]

in honor of your success i had to fire up the H70 on my `69 700. i used the recoil since the battery is out , the recoil only has one dog and works fine

 

those cheap Ebay 35765a knockoff starters for $60 also work fine

[305 380]

if you look around Craislist and Marketpalce you will see tons of H60 and H70 engines on old snowblowers

[Tractorhead 9,064]

I have the cheapo Starter on mine.

it worked fine and have plenty of Power, only the returnspring is a little bit weak in my opinion.

 

 

Maybe i will change it over to the Original Starter spring what is a little stronger but i did it not now.

So i have to regulary service it a little bit with MOs2 Oil to keep it easyly moving, what works for me at the moment.

There is a small hole on the Startercover of the gears, that allows to sprut directly onto startergear.

 

but it will be just used when it‘s really dang cold and i have maybe troubles to get it pullstarted.

My pullstarter is the first choice.

Edited January 5, 2021 by Tractorhead

[Gregor 4,847]

1 hour ago, 305 said:

those cheap Ebay 35765a knockoff starters for $60 also work fine

I never could find a part number for the starter for this H70. That, is not the number I ordered. This is what I ordered. HERE    I guess I will be ordering another starter. When I took the recoil starter back off, the flywheel nut was loose. It must have come loose from the last time I started it. I am scared to death of spinning it with a drill again, although I would like to set idle, and high RPM.

I want to thank everyone who help me with this motor. I learned a lot on this site.

[305 380]

yes.....that is the wrong starter

[Gregor 4,847]

Thanks 305. I reordered the correct starter. Since I discovered the loose flywheel nut, and starter cup, I re-installed the re-coil starter. It does not slip now, but I just don't have the poop to pull it over fast enough to start. It's he!! to get old.