Now project

[Gregor 4,846]

I really think this engine is salvageable, and I would like to save it. Trouble is, I'm having trouble locating parts. When it comes to the HH60 are all the short blocks the same? I have never messed with a small engine before. I have talked to a couple of places, and I give them the model number, and they both told me the number is wrong. There should be one more digit.  Well, I wish there was, but there simply isn't. The number is HH60-10513A. All the model numbers I find on line have one more digit, this one dos not  Also, I have not found anything that ends in "A"

[ebinmaine 67,760]

Most modern small engine repair places don't have a lot of knowledge of anything built more than about 20 or 30 years ago.

That's nothing for or against them it's just the way the industry is.

 

What are the parts that you're looking for?

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

Complete gasket set, rings, valves, maybe a carb. Won't really know for sure until I get into it. I just hate to tear it down and find out I can't get anything.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,069]

Try HH60-105013A original in the model 656

Click on the picture for more

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=HH60-105013A&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Found a parts list for the B

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/tecumseh/4-cycle-horizontal/hh-60/hh60-105013b

Another B

https://www.partstree.com/models/hh60-105013b-tecumseh-engine/

and a C

https://www.partstree.com/models/hh60-105013c-tecumseh-engine/

 

Garry

[Gregor 4,846]

Jacks is one of the places that told me my model number is not valid. That's why I was wondering if all HH60 short blocks were the same.

[Gregor 4,846]

Even that "B" model number has one more digit than my model number

[Gregor 4,846]

Can someone explain this apparatus to me? I assume it is some sort of voltage regulator. I have watched some HH60 videos, and haven't seen anything like it. Nor can I find any reference to it any parts diagram, but then again, I have not  been able to find my particular motor listed in any parts diagrams. The wire in the middle on the bottom goes directly to the points. I think it's suppose to be a kill wire, but not sure.The other 2 wires on the bottom go to the generator..As you can see there is a fuse across the top. It has continuity. The wire on the top exits the cover, and goes...I don't know where. It was not connected to anything, but maybe it goes to the battery for charging. On either side of the little card are fuse type cartridges, but they are not fuses. When removed from the card, the one on the left reads 369 ohms, regardless of how you apply the leads. For this reason, I don't believe they are capacitors. I am thinking diodes. The one on the right shows open. I would like to remove the coil and generator assembly for cleaning purposes, but I'm not just sure how I would reset the coil gap. Any help with all this would be greatly appreciated. 

Footnote: If this is a voltage regulator, could any 12 volt regulator be substituted? Thanks Greg

[WHNJ701 4,165]

@formariz can you help this guy out with his question?

[formariz 11,988]

What you have there is the rectifier panel for a 3 AMP DC Alternator system and yes there is one fuse and two diodes. I suggest that you get familiar with the system and specifically learn what not to do. Those parts are very hard to find. Also before you take magneto out and change anything learn about it. Those engines are extremely finicky as to timing as most familiar with them can tell you. Never put power from switch into that rectifier. Look through the literature provided here .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Howie 892]

If you are going to take that off scribe a line on the mounting lug and the mag unit before removing.

This is your timing, coil gap you can do nothing about. If not marked head has to be off to reset timing

correctly. I think Tecumseh used to sell a dial indicator with offset tip to do this but probably next to 

unobtainable now. I think the internals are most likely the same as any other engine close to that

type number.  Have put some of these together and not even had all the numbers and got my parts.

[Gregor 4,846]

Thank You so much. I bookmarked the page and also saved each pic to a folder

[Gregor 4,846]

Can anyone direct me to a parts breakdown for this tractor? I thought I found one oncce, but can't seem to locate it again.

[Pullstart 62,933]

This link should give you everything to do with the 656 in the manuals section 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=656&quick=1&type=downloads_file 

[Gregor 4,846]

Thank You Pullstart. There is a lot of good information in there. Although some of it is contradicting the motor that's sitting in front of me, but then there is no guarantee that this shroud, containing the model number, is original to this motor. I suppose it's possible I don't even have a 6HP motor here. That is going to make things even bit harder. This motor looked really good, until I opened up the bottom end. It doesn't look terrible, but I have to wonder what someone else has done to it before. Things are pretty rusty and crusty, but I'm getting them cleaned up the best I can with what I have. The crank journal was a bit galled, but cleaned up good. The governor assembly is complete toast, but my small engine guy has a new one on the shelf. My small engine guy has the shroud now. He wanted to see the model and spec number for himself. He called his Tecumseh supplier and was told no motor by that number exists. Well, OK.  As hard as I am trying to save this motor, it may not be possible if I don't even know for sure what it is I am trying to save. According to what I read in the above spec sheets, HH60 denotes a Horizontal shaft, Heavy Duty, cast Iron motor. My motor is not cast iron. So I am not sure what I have. My small engine guy is trying to research it. Another odd note about the motor. When I disassembled it, the cam came out with the motor cover. The timing mark on the cam is clearly visible. I cannot find any timing marks on the gear on the crank. Maybe I just don't know what to look for.

I am still trying to find a parts break down for the entire tractor. Maybe it is in the link you sent, and I am just not smart enough to find it.

[ebinmaine 67,760]

If your engine is not cast iron standard lore says it should/could be an H60. Aluminum block. 

Used on many things including Troy-bilt rototillers. Those engines are a popular replacement for a Horse engine because they're populous and RED. 

I'm not at all sure if or how many would have had a charging system though. 

 

@Stepney does anything here look like things you've come across in your travels?

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,069]

Here are the bore and stroke specs

 

Here is a link to the tractor manual

Garry

[Gregor 4,846]

Finally, I got a parts list, minus the engine, but it's a parts list. All this time I have been trying to download the wrong file. I'm not great when it comes to computers. I was just coming back to my computer to see if I could find engine specs on an HH60 when I saw your post. My piston and cylinder measure 2.750" Now I guess I have to figure out if it's a 6 hp that's been bored, or if it's a 7 hp. If had had it assembled I guess I could measure stroke, and see what that is. 1/32 might be hard to measure though. May do that tomorrow. Is there another way? I know I ask a lot of questions. Sorry.

[Gregor 4,846]

I found this. According to these specs, If I am reading it right, I have a 7hp motor. My piston diameter is 2.750 and the crank journal for the rod bearing is 1.18

 

Tecumseh Specs

[Gregor 4,846]

After all this, it may mean nothing. I was cleaning up the block and sump cover, and found this. Both are cracked.

[ebinmaine 67,760]

DAMM

[953 nut 55,389]

             I would be hesitant to put any faith in a block that is cracked like that.

[Gregor 4,846]

I have seen where guys have used JB Weld and other compounds to seal up such cracks. I'm not a fan of that at all. The block and cover are available on ebay, and it seems regardless of whether this is a 6 hp, or a 7 hp motor, they are the same. At least that's how I interpret he parts diagrams. I ordered them. If they are wrong when they get here, I will go motor shopping I guess. This was a real let down. This is the first time I have attempted to rebuild a single cylinder 4 cycle. It's been a challenge to say the least.

[ebinmaine 67,760]

4 minutes ago, Gregor said:

It's been a challenge

It's also been a great learning experience that will likely stick with you. 

 

Keep on truckin' !!!

[Gregor 4,846]

At almost 70 years old. I don't know how much stick I got left in me.  On a high note! I got the new fuel pump in for the C-141 yesterday. It runs perfect.

Edited November 26, 2020 by Gregor
change

[Pullstart 62,933]

PC7 epoxy is amazing stuff!  805RoadKind on YouTube uses it like crazy while welding numerous Briggs engines together to fill in the gaps.  It is fully machinable like steel when hardened.  I’d grind that crack to a bevel and fill it if that’s the only option!