danweikert21 166 #1 Posted November 15, 2020 Hi guys just am wondering about a problem im having with my pully on my trans. I have a raider 10 model 1-6041 and the pully has been loose the only thing keeping it on is the shroud. causing the outer wall of the pully to wear and grind. The pully is movable by hand. I just took it off looked down at the set screw and thought i would take it out ( just trying to fix it ) turns out there was a second set screw below the first one. So i decided to put the pully back on with the key in place and tightened down the set screw this time only using one haha. To my surprise it was tight. I wanted to make sure so i gave it a good tug. Then i gave it a pretty big tug and it popped right off. My concern is if i try and tighten the set screw more it will round out the Allen head. Maybe it was tight enough just thought i would put this out there. Thanks guys. One more thing should i put blue lock tight on the set screw. - Dan Weikert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #2 Posted November 15, 2020 First get a new set screw and key. The set screws have a cupped end to dig into the key. Your set screw p probably has a tip worn flat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #3 Posted November 15, 2020 ok yeah ill do that thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #5 Posted November 15, 2020 do you know what type of set screw im looking at some now online and theres diffrent types like cup points, cone points and a half dog point Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #6 Posted November 15, 2020 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: exactly what i need thank you so much Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #7 Posted November 15, 2020 you wouldnt happen to know what size i dont have a thread pitch gauge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096 #8 Posted November 15, 2020 Part number 909862-5 is a 5/16-18 x 5/16" set screw. It was originally a Nylok type so use a thread locker like Loctite. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #9 Posted November 15, 2020 First of all thank you so much for the manuals ive been looking for this for a long time this will make everything way easier. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096 #10 Posted November 15, 2020 This is what comes up on a 1-6041 model search. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-6041&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #11 Posted November 17, 2020 hi guys just wondering what gauge wire i should run my accesorys ( rear light, cigar lighter, and headlights ) and also if i need a fuse thanks a bunch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,475 #12 Posted November 18, 2020 A fused circuit is always a good idea I use 14 guage wire for most lower voltage needs like the ones you mentioned. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R Scheer 502 #13 Posted November 18, 2020 I'd agree with the 14 gauge, I'd also use a 15 amp fuse. Things can go bad real fast if you have a short circuit, and no fuse to protect the wiring. Think fire, melted wiring etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #14 Posted November 18, 2020 yeah this is true i kind of made a rookie mistake a few days ago i wired up just my back light and not my headlights and cigar lighter and boom it went up in smoke the back light is fired had to much power going to the back Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #15 Posted November 18, 2020 where would i put the fuse in the wiring harness just wondering Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R Scheer 502 #16 Posted November 18, 2020 The easiest way would be to use a waterproof inline fuse holder. Any boating supply place or decent electrical automotive place should have these. Or your friendly online jungle site. Waterproof may be an overkill, but this is a tractor, it will get wet sometime, and corroded connections can be a pain to troubleshoot. You can also get waterproof butt splices to make your connections. 2 hours ago, danweikert21 said: yeah this is true i kind of made a rookie mistake a few days ago i wired up just my back light and not my headlights and cigar lighter and boom it went up in smoke the back light is fired had to much power going to the back Sounds like you have a short in your back lights, not having your front lights connected should make no difference. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #17 Posted November 19, 2020 Thanks a lot guys this is the finished product 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #18 Posted November 21, 2020 Hey everyone I just ran into a problem with my drive components. After I got the drive pulley on the trans to stay tight I put it all together and tested it. Now I am having the problem of the idler pulley right about the drive pulley. The belt is slipping out and under the belt guard on the pulley. I’ve been having this problem ever since I tried to pull against a John Deere. ( I lost ) does anyone have any ideas on what it could be thanks everyone:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #20 Posted November 22, 2020 Check the alignment of all three pulleys with a straight edge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #21 Posted November 22, 2020 I would if I had a straight edge but I don’t. Thanks for the tip. Could I just use a yard stick or something like that instead Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #22 Posted November 22, 2020 Yard sticks are good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #23 Posted November 24, 2020 So I made sure all the pulleys are lined up and the belt keeps coming off at the pulley above the drive pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danweikert21 166 #24 Posted November 24, 2020 62793563366__76DCB401-9B48-4420-A5F3-38B886291F58.MOV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,460 #25 Posted November 24, 2020 HI. It may be the camera angle, but to my eye from your images and video, the idler pulley is not in the same plane as the drive pulley. The engine side looks closer to the frame than the transmission side. Remember that the belt is rotating counter-clockwise so it is riding out of the idler pulley starting from the engine side, not the transmission side. If so, possible causes are: a) a bent arm holding the idler (not likely unless you know of some recent impact or stress on that part), b) the shaft that supports that arm is loose or has wallowed out the holes where it passes through the tunnel frame (with the belt off, is there play on that shaft?), c) worn bearings in the idler pulley (this last being the most likely, as when running the idler is not holding a steady plane-does it wobble or have side to side play?) There are two other less likely possible causes: a) the drive belt has an internal tear or broken cord that is causing it to not run straight when under tension (look for a slight side-to-side "kink" in the belt b) there is a gouge or worn spot or crack in the belt on one of the "V" sides that causes it to "ride up" on the idler (look for a gouge or dip crack or exposed fabric cords) Neither of these are usual results of wear on belts that aren't especially old running on well-aligned drive trains so it'd be some impact or stress that caused it--including having it run off a pulley and jam against a guide or retainer or having a stick or stone get stuck in the drive.) Good luck! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites