Calling All Metal Fabricators

[rmaynard 15,521]

I am finally getting back around to helping my 12 year old grandson restore his 701.

I am good with body work as long as I have something to work with, but here is my dilemma.

The bottom of the hood is gone. See the picture below.

 

 

I need it to look like this.

 

 

So my question is, does anyone have the fabricating ability to make some sort of patch and mounting bracket?

 

Has anyone taken an otherwise beat 702 or later hood and cut the bottom off and welded it to the rotted out bottom of another hood?

 

So many questions. I just need to get some ideas of how to fix this.

[dclarke 4,032]

Can you use fiberglass to patch that, Bob? 

[WHNJ701 4,165]

I would think the best option is to find and splice in another hood section.  To make that part would take some skills and time.  I made a similar lower hood piece for a david bradley walk behind.  It was a pain with all the compound curves, and in the end still required filler.

[ACman 7,618]

Looks like a good project for my sons new toy. The patch and mounting bracket could be fabricated. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,713]

[rmaynard 15,521]

1 hour ago, dclarke said:

Can you use fiberglass to patch that, Bob? 

I never thought about that Denny. I might look into it. 

[Lee1977 6,673]

I would take apiece of 16 gage 3" longer then of the bottom width and 1 1/2" longer then the front to back width . Cut a 1/4 circle out of the front corners large enough so you don't have corners to deal with. then roll up the front and two sides.

Find something about the right radius clamp it and the piece in the vice and hammer a radius in the edges starting with the front. If there is too much curve in the front you may have to cut a 1/2 circle out of the center, get that welded in then fiber glass or filler. 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Lee1977

[rmaynard 15,521]

12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

I would take apiece of 16 gage 3" longer then of the bottom width and 1 1/2" longer then the front to back width . Cut a 1/4 circle out of the front corners large enough so you don't have corners to deal with. then roll up the front and two sides.

Find something about the right radius clamp it and the piece in the vice and hammer a radius in the edges starting with the front. If there is too much curve in the front you may have to cut a 1/2 circle out of the center, get that welded in then fiber glass or filler. 

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm no fabricator. 

[wallfish 17,021]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

I never thought about that Denny. I might look into it. 

Fiberglass by itself would probably crack from the vibration but you can pop rivet a piece of steel across the damaged section on the inside. Make it tight and secure then use the fiberglass to finish it off.

Better if the metal could be welded but rivets should be within your wheelhouse and work.

Best would be a front section of a hood

[JPWH 6,040]

I had to do the same to my 854.

A sheet metal shop should be able to do it for you.

[Achto 27,624]

Working a piece of metal with a hammer on a sand bag can get you the curved shape that you need.

Edited November 14, 2020 by Achto

[WHNJ701 4,165]

If you need a pattern let me know off my 701 

[Oldskool 6,644]

You could look around a bit and might find the curves you need off of something already prestamped. I made this from the outer corners of a Craftsman rider rear fender.

[rmaynard 15,521]

Thanks to Denny Clarke and Lane Ralph who put me in touch with Will Patton on Facebook, who sells a custom piece to fix the bottom tab of the hood.

 

So I received it on Thursday and it was not quite what I was expecting. See images below:

 

 

 

The shape is fine, and the mounting tab is great, but for my problem, the mounting surface is only 7/16" wide which still leaves me with the problem of what to do with the rest of the rust-out.

I guess I can have this welded in from the inside, then try a fiberglass patch for the rest of the opening.

 

See picture below:

 

[Oldskool 6,644]

7 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Thanks to Denny Clarke and Lane Ralph who put me in touch with Will Patton on Facebook, who sells a custom piece to fix the bottom tab of the hood.

 

So I received it on Thursday and it was not quite what I was expecting. See images below:

 

 

 

The shape is fine, and the mounting tab is great, but for my problem, the mounting surface is only 7/16" wide which still leaves me with the problem of what to do with the rest of the rust-out.

I guess I can have this welded in from the inside, then try a fiberglass patch for the rest of the opening.

 

See picture below:

 

Any fab shop or body shop can make the remaining piece. If you want to go a different route look at common everyday items. Something will have just the piece you are looking for

[DennisThornton 4,769]

3 hours ago, rmaynard said:

Thanks to Denny Clarke and Lane Ralph who put me in touch with Will Patton on Facebook, who sells a custom piece to fix the bottom tab of the hood.

 

So I received it on Thursday and it was not quite what I was expecting. See images below:

 

 

 

The shape is fine, and the mounting tab is great, but for my problem, the mounting surface is only 7/16" wide which still leaves me with the problem of what to do with the rest of the rust-out.

I guess I can have this welded in from the inside, then try a fiberglass patch for the rest of the opening.

 

See picture below:

 

Now you have ALL of the outside edges and know what you missing.  You could make the remainder!  I'd weld up the small holes, the cracks and then fab a patch for the big ugly hole. But the little holes could be soldered easily and permanently, the big hole I'd again rather weld a little, hammer what I just did and weld some more until done but it to could be brazed or soldered.  Solder would not be my first choice for the cracks unless they were backed up with some sheet metal.  The new piece could be also but welded, brazed or again even soldered or just bolted or pop riveted.  It's certainly doable and with different approaches and skill levels.  Welding and brazing are somewhat forgiving of some paint and rust but solder is not but for some reason solder is often overlooked as a fix for sheet metal and a plus is the lower heat and way less warping!  Remember to not expect solder to hold up for unbacked cracks.  If metal failed the solder will too and very quickly.  Braze too but not quite a quickly.

 

Holler if you need more details.

[rmaynard 15,521]

Good ideas all, but since I don't have a welder, I think that I will be taking this to the guy that welded up the dash tower on my 416-H. He's a master at his trade. Here is how he fixed my 416.

 

 

 

Updates to follow.

Edited November 23, 2020 by rmaynard

[DennisThornton 4,769]

49 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Good ideas all, but since I don't have a welder, I think that I will be taking this to the guy that welded up the dash tower on my 416-H. He's a master at his trade. Here is how he fixed my 416.

 

 

 

Updates to follow.

Yep!  That's a welding job but could have been backed up and brazed though not a job for soldering.  But a lot of sheet metal repairs could be soldered and a lot of folks can afford or already have and can operate a propane torch an often overlooked but marvelous tool and method of repair.

[Pullstart 62,923]

Reminder, cracks tend to spread until they hit a radius.  Drill a small 1/8” hole at the end of each crack before repairs are made to prevent spreading, even after welding.

[Pullstart 62,923]

Bob, that’s a pretty good price on the fab piece!  I have a certain RJ project starting that will need some serious repair down there too, but it doesn’t have the mounting tab.  I should be able to come up with something.

[Oldskool 6,644]

Does anyone make an aftermarket one piece fiberglass hood/grille for any of these tractos??

[953 nut 55,360]

6 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Does anyone make an aftermarket one piece fiberglass hood/grille for any of these tractos??

The Ponds did that on some of the very early tractors they built.

[ebinmaine 67,713]

6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The Ponds did that on some of the very early tractors they built.

Was that only on the Seniors or were there RJ's built with glass?

 

[AMC RULES 37,132]

RJ-25 too.

[SylvanLakeWH 25,609]

Just curious @rmaynard... were you able to get a fix for the fitting and holes?