520H Kwik way loader sub -frame

[ecsi635j 34]

Hello All

I'm at the early stage of gathering materials to build a loader for a 520H.

I thought a good place to start would be to build the sub fram

I would like to pattern it off of a Kwik way

I have the Kwik-Way parts illustration from the operators manual which has and illustration of the sub frame it self.

So I have a visual reference to go by but no actual dimensions. I could possibly "wing it" and go by "feel"

But I'm hoping some one might have dimensions off an actual Kwik way sub-frame . 

   For the sub-frame material to start, I purchased 2 five foot sections of 2x2x1/4 inch angle iron for the sub-frame rails and 2x1/4 inch flat stock for the front section of the sub-frame which attaches the  mid  Attach-A Matic.

I'm guessing they went with 1/4" material. Looking at the  parts illustration this is just a guess.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[roadapples 6,983]

Surprised Kwikway only uses angle iron. Ark used square tubing...

[ecsi635j 34]

I was going to go with Square tubing but the price difference was twice as much

I got quoted 31.00 for 2×2 square ×3/16 wall thickness. The. 1/4" angle was 13.00 for a five ft, section

[JCM 9,177]

To bad you live so far away, I have a mint Kwik-Way loader subframe and loader stands that were on a 520-H that I wouldn't mind unloading.

[ecsi635j 34]

Any one

Edited November 7, 2020 by ecsi635j
wrong information

[953 nut 55,321]

13 hours ago, ecsi635j said:

the sub-frame which attaches the  mid  Attach-A Matic.

I am not a fan of hanging the FEL sub frame from the Attach-A-Matic. Too many light duty parts that could cause problems. Much better to have the front of the sub frame bolted directly to the frame.

[ecsi635j 34]

Thank you for your replies.

I  actually considered using both. Maybe using the three bolts per side where the Attach  A Matic brackets are fastened to and using the ATTACH A MATIC as a locating device and as a supplementary support.

I also thought about not making the "pedestals" where the uprights are located as in the original KWIK WAY design and just going with a simple cross member and fastening the uprights directly to this cross member.

So, I really only need the width or spacing center to center of the sub frame side rails ,the length of these  side rails and the measurement from where the side rails end to the center line of the ATTCH A MATIC.

Edited November 7, 2020 by ecsi635j
to insert illustration

[ecsi635j 34]

Outlined on this illustration are the dimensions I need

[lynnmor 7,308]

12 hours ago, ecsi635j said:

Outlined on this illustration are the dimensions I need

 

Since the rear pieces that go over the axles interfere with the rear hitch, I have a custom piece that clips into the rear hitch.  Simply measure from the mid hitch to the rear hitch and make it adjustable with slotted bolt holes.  I did need to make brackets for the weight box since the original was held by the sub-frame.

[ebinmaine 67,623]

On 11/6/2020 at 8:52 PM, JCM said:

To bad you live so far away, I have a mint Kwik-Way loader subframe and loader stands that were on a 520-H that I wouldn't mind unloading.

PM sent

[8ntruck 7,016]

The tube sub-frame will be stiffer than the angle iron sub-frame.

 

[ecsi635j 34]

On 11/7/2020 at 6:02 PM, lynnmor said:

 

Since the rear pieces that go over the axles interfere with the rear hitch, I have a custom piece that clips into the rear hitch.  Simply measure from the mid hitch to the rear hitch and make it adjustable with slotted bolt holes.  I did need to make brackets for the weight box since the original was held by the sub-frame.

Would it be possible to maybe provide a picture or  sketch ?

[ebinmaine 67,623]

On 11/6/2020 at 8:44 PM, ecsi635j said:

I was going to go with Square tubing but the price difference was twice as much

I got quoted 31.00 for 2×2 square ×3/16 wall thickness. The. 1/4" angle was 13.00 for a five ft, section

 

6 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

The tube sub-frame will be stiffer than the angle iron sub-frame.

 

 

 

@ecsi635j

I'm no metallurgist or physicist. I do remember reading that a tube made of the same amount/type of material is exponentially stronger than other shapes of the same material. 

It's the reason roll cages are tubes. 

 

62-26=36 actual dollars = money well spent on the very foundation. 

 

That angle iron you have is pretty rugged and should certainly be just fine.... GIVEN PROPER BUILD AND USAGE. 

 

I'm not familiar with the general design of garden tractor loaders but an old rule in hydraulics is

The Cylinder Push/pull Strength Is Always Stronger Than The Steel. 

 

Point being, research your rated load limit and limit the load there. Not higher. 

 

Looking forward to seeing this build progress. 

[lynnmor 7,308]

The distance from the C/L of the front pin to the rear of the sub frame is 30-3/4"  The rear mounting pieces are in addition to that.

Here are my photos of the rear mount.  I have worked this setup very hard and had no failures so I think that doing it this way is a good idea if you have the rear attachment.

 

Edited November 9, 2020 by lynnmor

[ebinmaine 67,623]

20 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

The distance from the C/L of the front pin to the rear of the sub frame is 30-3/4"  The rear mounting pieces are in addition to that.

Here are my photos of the rear mount.  I have worked this setup very hard and had no failures so I think that doing it this way is a good idea if you have the rear attachment.

 

Does that setup make your loader a quick drop or no?

 

[lynnmor 7,308]

26 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Does that setup make your loader a quick drop or no?

 

It does make things a bit faster,  I place the rear in the hitch first and then swing the sub frame up into the mid hitch.  I added quick disconnects to the hydraulic lines and route them in front of the engine rather than have them dangle like Kwik-Way says.  You still have the front bracket to place in the Tach-a-Matic for the front braces.  The one thing that is always an issue is the belt driven pump being mounted on the sub frame, the play in the hitches and no spring loaded idler causes belt slippage often.  I guess another Round-Tuit Job.

[cschannuth 3,816]

I used 1/4” angle for my sub frame because I had it on hand. I attached it at 6 locations using the existing mid hitch mounting holes in the frame, at the rear axle, and to the frame underneath the steering tower.  This was not for a KwikWay, however.  

Edited November 9, 2020 by cschannuth

[ecsi635j 34]

cschannuth, Wanted to ask, is that  1/4 " side wall 4x2" rectangular tubing  you're using for your cross member? I  went with 1/4" wall rectangular tubing for the cross member as well  it's very heavy, thought I went over kill on this item? 

Also you're cross member sits back quite aways  along the sub frame , I'm doing sort of a mock up with this very same cross member and was unsure on the best position for it to be in?

Edited November 10, 2020 by ecsi635j
wrong spelling

[cschannuth 3,816]

I built this using the P.F. Engineering plans which were meant for a cub cadet tractor. I put my crossmember and uprights as far back as I possibly could because I wanted the center of gravity to be as far back on the tractor as possible. I really like it because the tractor is super stable but it does make it a bit more difficult to get on and off of the tractor since the uprights are so far back. Here’s a Sideview of my finished unit so you can see where they ended up being installed. The crossmember is 3“ x 2“ by 1/4”. 

[JCM 9,177]

@cschannuth   May I ask where you bought that seat. I could use a couple of that style for 2 , 400 series tractors. the bolt pattern is different than the 300 series. Sorry to get off topic  @ecsi635j     Nice loader .

[cschannuth 3,816]

33 minutes ago, JCM said:

@cschannuth   May I ask where you bought that seat. I could use a couple of that style for 2 , 400 series tractors. the bolt pattern is different than the 300 series. Sorry to get off topic  @ecsi635j     Nice loader .

 

@dclarke turned me on to  the seat but I can’t seem to find the order info. I’m sure he’ll be along shortly to help. 

[dclarke 4,032]

27 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

 

@dclarke turned me on to  the seat but I can’t seem to find the order info. I’m sure he’ll be along shortly to help. 

I’m pretty sure this is the seat Craig has. 

[JCM 9,177]

Thank you both.  @cschannuth  &   @dclarke .

[ecsi635j 34]

9 hours ago, cschannuth said:

I built this using the P.F. Engineering plans which were meant for a cub cadet tractor. I put my crossmember and uprights as far back as I possibly could because I wanted the center of gravity to be as far back on the tractor as possible. I really like it because the tractor is super stable but it does make it a bit more difficult to get on and off of the tractor since the uprights are so far back. Here’s a Sideview of my finished unit so you can see where they ended up being installed. The crossmember is 3“ x 2“ by 1/4”. 

That is truly and indeed awesome work !.I really like the look of the weight bracket,  it looks very compact and clean as opposed to a weight box.  I went over and took a look at the PF engineering web site and wanted to ask if the the plans include or specify the gauge and dimensions  of the uprights and  boom material used?Also, do they provide  hydraulic cylinder  diameter, length and stroke spec's?

[cschannuth 3,816]

56 minutes ago, ecsi635j said:

That is truly and indeed awesome work !.I really like the look of the weight bracket,  it looks very compact and clean as opposed to a weight box.  I went over and took a look at the PF engineering web site and wanted to ask if the the plans include or specify the gauge and dimensions  of the uprights and  boom material used?Also, do they provide  hydraulic cylinder  diameter, length and stroke spec's?

Thanks. The plans provide that information.