Finally got a C-160

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,019]

Kohler made the engine in 1976 so could still be a 1976 or 1977 model tractor.

 

Garry

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

 This is what i am up against. The PO had all this stuff tagged to the hot side of the solenoid. Most of the original harness is still there with the plug in to the switch intact, but missing one wire lead with just the remnants of a wire sticking out. The solenoid clicks , but no cigar. i will drill a tiny hole in the cap of the solenoid to inject some Deep Creep. That has worked before . i rescued the tag and carefully wet sanded the paint. 16K802   17383    

                                                                                        6108

Edited November 13, 2020 by ohiofarmer

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,019]

Full model number would be 61-16K802 with the 61- likely printed rather than stamped.

Click on the fuzzy part of the link.

Garry

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

  I finally got the solenoid/starter thing fixed. I was back and forth with wondering why there was not enough oomph [ was it solenoid or poor ground to transfer the current to the starter. I had thoroughly cleaned the ring connectors and the copper penny washers. the test light lit on the far side of the solenoid, but the cable to the starter was not carrying current. Finally, the test light needle point got between the crimp and the copper wire and she lit off. So now i will use a bit of toilet bowl cleaner at the cable ends, as it works very well in tight areas to remove tarnish, then silicone grease and tighten the crimp a bit. No way would you ever look at the cable and even consider that this cable would not pass muster..

 I just went ahead and removed the voltage regulator and ammeter. Might just as well clean that stuff as well as it looks pretty bad.. I have plenty of  fresh wiring in the horde. Washing machines and cook stoves and stuff has excellent tight fittings that plug right into the ignition switch.All i need  for now all i need is a jump wire to the coil and a momentary starter switch to see if it will fire.

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

  SHE'S ALIVE. Put a carb on it and a slave tank and it hit right off. No smoke and runs fine. It does need a new switch and some additional wiring clean up, but it is in the original repaired wiring harness. I save everything and seem to get the most parts from old appliance wiring and the thin but strong angle iron they use in bed frames and furniture..  An old stove or clothes dryer has some heavy duty wiring with suitable end fittings that plug right in to our wire harnesses.

 

  So order some parts like switches and carburetor parts, fuel line andgaskets for three or four Horses and the shop will be a happy place. The c-141 can go up on the lift for it's maiden start next., then the c-121 for a head cleaning and valve adjustment. I might tackle a rebore on one of my engines if there is time later.

[richmondred01 2,237]

I think I’ve owned just about every wheel horse model produced from around 1968 on.

The c160-8 is my favorite. Can’t beat the k341.

[sparkie333 265]

Old timers would use some pea gravel and shake it around inside of the tanks to clean them out . I guess if they were real bad they would do it more than once.

[sparkie333 265]

On 11/19/2020 at 9:41 AM, richmondred01 said:

I think I’ve owned just about every wheel horse model produced from around 1968 on.

The c160-8 is my favorite. Can’t beat the k341.

Yep I really like the 16 HP engine---Yep Mine is a1976 C160 automatic Without the hood  thingy--- and I guess I will have to like it very much.

Edited December 9, 2020 by sparkie333
more info.

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

1 hour ago, sparkie333 said:

Old timers would use some pea gravel and shake it around inside of the tanks to clean them out . I guess if they were real bad they would do it more than once.

    On the metal tanks with the non ethanol fuel that is 20 years old, i have found that much of the stuff that looks like rust is actually varnish. lacquer thinner dissolves it completely away. I have done quite a few motorcycle tanks and usually you lose a quart of solvent on each one. i save and filter the lacquer thinner for the next job. Then we pea gravel them if they are bad enough.  Also i like to use electrolysis on them and get as much out as possible, then some commercial toilet bowl cleaner, Then use metal prep diluted a few times an if you oil them a bit they don't flash rust

  Ok, so then when that tank is pristine, we mix a bit of gas and oil together and shake it out and the oily coating remains. Then store it in the dry like a house attic.if i am immediately using them, its just keep good non ethanol gas..... if they are not used all the time. Not really a fan of tank liner, but the way I clean them, it probably would work pretty good. An old farmer's trick is to take whatever polishing agent like pea gravel and bungee the tanks to a tractor wheel and do some field work. Saw that one in Farm Show magazine.

 There is a guy on video named taryl who is doing a long term test on a bunch of robin engines with various storage brews like stabil. and starting them once a month. He also places a jar of sealed gasoline and a vented jar beside each test engine. It is unreal how much evaporates in one year out the vented jars.

  Anyway, I plan to get back to the tractor operating room tomorrow and get the c-160 fired up for more than a few minutes

Edited December 9, 2020 by ohiofarmer

[sparkie333 265]

This picture of my C160 didn't come out very clear If I can find out how I posted it I will try again.