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Oldskool

Project "Snow Drift"

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DennisThornton
22 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

The weak spots are the keyways and the universal joints at the back of the tanks

Hard for me to estimate the forces on those screws and under different conditions.

 

Fingers crossed!

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71_Bronco

By the way, how close were we on our helix length calculations? :dance:

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8ntruck
1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

5ft wide 6-/2ft long. My trailer is 5-1 wide 8 long. Should just fit

 

How are you going to get it on abd off of the trailer?  Special ramps with cleats for the screws to grab?  Load/unload by crabbing sideways on ramps?

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Oldskool
4 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

 

How are you going to get it on abd off of the trailer?  Special ramps with cleats for the screws to grab?  Load/unload by crabbing sideways on ramps?

It has a full width fold down ramp. Go fast?    🤣🤣🤔🤔🤔 Not sure but I'll try.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

It has a full width fold down ramp. Go fast?    🤣🤣🤔🤔🤔 Not sure but I'll try.

Video Mike. We need video. 

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Oldskool
27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Video Mike. We need video. 

Soon, soon

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Oldskool

What is the width of the woodruff key used on the rear hubs of the bigger tractors? 

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

What is the width of the woodruff key used on the rear hubs of the bigger tractors? 

@pfrederi

Paul what were those ones you sent me for Colossus?... fit gt14 I think.....?

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Oldskool

The reason I was previously asking about the width of the woodruff key was to get a reference of width to the 1/4" key stock I'm using on the universal joints. I'm pondering the idea of drilling/tapping 180 degree from the original 1/4" set screw and adding a set bolt. I may be over thinking it a bit considering my drive unit sprockets have 3/16" key stock. Although they are half again as long. So I dont know. I think I'm just trying to cover all the bases now not as a repair later. That's enough verbal diarrhea for now.

 

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Handy Don
9 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I'm pondering the idea of drilling/tapping 180 degree from the original 1/4" set screw and adding a set bolt

The gearbox for the sickle mower has both woodruff keyway and setbolt holes on both shafts. I suspect this was, in part, because these went to universal jointed drive and driven shafts in some uses.

Edited by Handy Don
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Oldskool
6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

The gearbox for the sickle mower has both woodruff keyway and setbolt holes on both shafts. I suspect this was, in part, because these went to universal jointed drive and driven shafts in some uses.

I was looking at that. I think that may be because it has a chance to slide off the shaft if the set screw loosened up. In this instance the screw unit doesnt really have a chance to slide off. I'm more worried it will shear the key off. 

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SylvanLakeWH

Adding overbuilt redundancy now will most likely benefit you down the road. I’m thinking a whole lot of stress with those screws... go big so it doesn’t even feel the stresses...

 

:twocents-02cents:

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Adding overbuilt redundancy now will most likely benefit you down the road. I’m thinking a whole lot of stress with those screws... go big so it doesn’t even feel the stresses...

 

:twocents-02cents:

Certainly some logic to that.

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Oldskool
18 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Adding overbuilt redundancy now will most likely benefit you down the road. I’m thinking a whole lot of stress with those screws... go big so it doesn’t even feel the stresses...

 

:twocents-02cents:

True enough. I was just thinking of the ole "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" which in this case is the drive unit key stock of 3/16. I guess I will probably drill and tap before it's all said and done.

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DennisThornton

Nice to have an easy or at least cheap "fuse".  Can't get much cheaper than a key.

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Oldskool
23 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Nice to have an easy or at least cheap "fuse".  Can't get much cheaper than a key.

Your right there. The big thing is the front axle has to come off if I turn a key on the tank. Well the light bulb in my head just went off. Yup I guess I am gonna add the set screw. It's a p.i.t.a. to get that front end off

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Oldskool

I picked this up the other day for free.  I think it fits well. A couple more bars in the middle and good to go. At lunch I took the time to make a list of what's left to do on the Y.E.T.I. I'm down to just 12 things. The light at the end of the tunnel??? Maybe.

20210112_122046.jpg

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Oldskool

Ya that's looking better.

20210112_130937.jpg

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DennisThornton
2 hours ago, Oldskool said:

Your right there. The big thing is the front axle has to come off if I turn a key on the tank. Well the light bulb in my head just went off. Yup I guess I am gonna add the set screw. It's a p.i.t.a. to get that front end off

I owned and operated in the shop of an autobody shop for 15 years and got to see a LOT of the results of either thinking about how this vehicle will get repaired or not giving it a lot.  Huge differences.  I still remember shaking my head when working on Chrysler products and later smiling as I worked on Toyotas.  

 

Think now about how you will service and repair.

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DennisThornton
1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

Ya that's looking better.

20210112_130937.jpg

Also have to know what size "fuse".  My X-ray vision is failing me...  What are you doing to the shafts?

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Oldskool
7 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I owned and operated in the shop of an autobody shop for 15 years and got to see a LOT of the results of either thinking about how this vehicle will get repaired or not giving it a lot.  Huge differences.  I still remember shaking my head when working on Chrysler products and later smiling as I worked on Toyotas.  

 

Think now about how you will service and repair.

I have been since I mentioned that the front axle would have to come off to fix a cut key on the tank shaft. I now plan on severing the front at the tape mark and .ake the end bolt on. That way I can service one tank at a time. Going back to the fact it's going to be badged as military, it has to be serviceable in the field. So far you can take this thing apart with a pair of pliers a screwdriver and a 7/16, 1/2 ,9/16 wrench.

20210112_144159.jpg

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Oldskool
Just now, DennisThornton said:

Also have to know what size "fuse".  My X-ray vision is failing me...  What are you doing to the shafts?

It has a 1/4" key and set screw originally I just drilled 180degree from that and added a 3/8 bolt that goes in a dimple in the shaft. That way my weakest link is sprocket related not tank related

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ebinmaine
38 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

So far you can take this thing apart with a pair of pliers a screwdriver and a 7/16, 1/2 ,9/16 wrench

That is AWESOME. 

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DennisThornton

Obviously a lot of good thinking going into this.  Pick your poison, one you have an antidote for!  Right sized fuse in the right place is great thinking!  Later if that fuse is too small you still have choices. 

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Pullstart

For that redundant set screw, possibly creating a flat on the shaft would help...

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