oldredrider 2,550 #26 Posted October 30, 2020 Common issue on the shaker plate motors. Nice repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,276 #27 Posted October 31, 2020 i recently saw a video of taking frozen bolts out of an exhaust manifolds. the one thing that stands out is that when the guy had a really stubborn bolt, he put back the previous bolts he had removed and tightened them up. that took some of the force off the frozen bolt and allowed it to be removed. The head cap can leak for a time and if they get bad enough, they will erode and pit deeply enough that they can be difficult to flatten off enough for a good seal. Just some stuff i am finding out with mine,[see pic] it seems to generally occur on the side closest to the spark plug.. with the head off, you may as well clean and lap the valves I am working on some C-145s as well, and used a lawn mower gas tank from a Honda to back up the broken area . The curve of the tank edge matches pretty well and then Spot weld it and JB is what i do as well. Gregor, you should also check at the rear of the transmission tunnel where the seat hardware bolts on. It's a very weak area that i just posted a thread on repairing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #28 Posted November 1, 2020 On 10/28/2020 at 8:11 AM, bottjernat1 said: Welcome to the group!! I also in reverse just started to get into lawn boys along with my horses. the older two stroke Law Boy mowers go quickly at flea markets I have an old low end Lawn Boy Scamp that took a ton of abuse and refused to die Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #29 Posted November 2, 2020 I have the C-141 tore down pretty much as far as I am going to take it. Hopefully tomorrow or the next day I can get it outside to power wash, but I have a couple of questions. When I tore it down, I noticed these 2 shafts protruding from the transmission. Are they PTO points? Do they spin at all? Are they for anything? Also. My Masseys have a 2 speed transmission. Hi / Lo. When in neutral, the tractor rolls pretty freely, for something that weighs over 900 Lbs. My John Deeres have a lever to pull to disengage the rear end. They too will roll pretty freely. The Wheelhorse, even with the drive belt off, does not seem to roll very easily. Is there a lever to pull, push, or something that disengages the drive? Thanks Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,933 #30 Posted November 2, 2020 (edited) Top [picture is the other side of the motion control shaft. It should rotate a bit as you move the motion control lever. I thought only D series hydro had the shaft showing on both sides. Wonder if this is not original pump. Bottom picture is possibly your tow valve. loosen it to roll the tractor. What kind of head is on it. Looks like a slot head with one side snapped off... Edited November 2, 2020 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #31 Posted November 2, 2020 There is no slot. After further investigation, it seems you are to turn it with a 5/16 wrench. I tried, but it's froze in place. I am soaking it with PB Blaster. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,127 #32 Posted November 2, 2020 If you are still stuck with that exhaust head bolt, I ended up needing to drill and tap the hole over. It is a through hole, so the tap can get clear through a cooling fin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #33 Posted November 3, 2020 Not using a primer is out of the question. The paint I am using simply won't cover. Painting is not one of my strong points, and while the weather is very nice for NW IL. today (70) the 15 mph wind doesn't help at all. Sooooo ya do what ya gotta do. I sort-a made a paint booth in my garage. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #34 Posted November 5, 2020 I have yet another paint question. I bought a can of Rustoleum Antique White for the wheels. Would this be correct, or should they simply be white? It's hard to tell looking at pics online. Thanks Greg 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,858 #35 Posted November 5, 2020 Antique white looks better in my opinion. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #36 Posted November 6, 2020 It's coming along. I am waiting on parts I ordered, and the tin work from the stripper. I did not tear this tractor down to individual parts and pieces like I have seen others do. I went as far as I felt comfortable doing for my first Wheelhorse. It's nice to start putting things back together again, rather than tearing it down, cleaning, sanding, painting, sanding it down again , repainting, etc. etc....First of all, the motor is a little different color from the rest of the tractor. It is high temp paint, the rest is not. I do like to keep things original, but, somethings just bother me. In my opinion, (personal preference) the coil and starter should always be black, so they are. A carburetor should never be painted. The motor has a new head gasket, solenoid, carb, coil, points, condenser, and plug. Not everything I painted was clear coated, only the tin work.Tomorrow I will finish installing the new wiring harness. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chip61 664 #37 Posted November 6, 2020 that looks great!! I wish I had taken the time to pull mine apart to clean it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #38 Posted November 6, 2020 I find it odd, and aggravating, that when they made this shroud for the K321, they provided holes to access the head bolts so you could retorque them, except 1. You can't access #3 without removing the shroud. Just venting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #39 Posted November 6, 2020 Can any of the Wjheelhorse experts see the mistake I made in this pic? It's bad! When I have it corrected, I will post a pic and explain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rfp55 33 #40 Posted November 7, 2020 Is the riddle about your negative battery cable trying to ground through the bolt in rubber motor mount? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #41 Posted November 7, 2020 (edited) No, there is a steel sleeve through the mount that grounds the cable. I was sitting here earlier looking at the tractor, thinking I have gone about as far as I can, without the rest of the tin work. Suddenly, something didn't look quite right to me, so I went and looked at my pre-disassembly pics. (I take a lot of those, just for this reason) I installed all of my motor mounts up-side-down. I had a HE!! of a time getting these things lined up the first time. I really didn't want to do it again, but I did. It wasn't fun, but went better than I expected. I installed the tin work I have at home, and have already painted. I have the front wheels off, refinishing them. I hate that job. Just no good way to clean them up. Also got the wiring harness installed. Edited November 7, 2020 by Gregor 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #42 Posted November 8, 2020 I need some help. I stated earlier that I take a lot of pics before I tear a tractor down, and I do, but apparently not enough. I didn't get pics of all the decals, and where they go. Some are obvious of course,some, not so much. I am pretty sure there were decals on the frame rails, but I don't remember exactly where. There is also a decal under the seat concerning the trans oil, but again, I don't remember exactly where it was either. Any pics of decals would be appreciated. Thanks Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #43 Posted November 12, 2020 I got the tin work back yesterday from the "metal preparation specialist" (politically correct) and have made some good headway on the tractor. After totally destroying my garage, I finished painting the last piece this morning. The hood is in the kitchen to sit over night. There are things I wish I had done different, and some things I wish I had done better, but it is what it is. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #44 Posted November 14, 2020 The C-141 is progressing, slowly. All the painting and clear coating is done. I am waiting on the motor decals. I thought I has ordered them a couple of weeks ago, but apparently I thought wrong. I had a really hard time getting it started yesterday. I am ordering a new fuel pump. Has anyone ever ordered on of those $10 pumps from ebay? Do they work? I an thinking about an electric fuel pump, if I can find one.I rate my paint jobs in feet. How many feet away do you have to get before the paint looks good? I would rate this at a 4, which is pretty good for me. I used Rustoleum Chinese Red Lacquer on this tractor, and clear coated the tin work. Sometime with larger pieces like the hood, it's hard to blend in the paint with rattle cans, but it is what it is. I learned a lot about painting. The biggest thing I learned is, let my nephew do it. It's what he does, he is set up for it, and does it very well. Today I am going to put on the decals. Always a nerve wracking job for me. I hope I get them straight. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #45 Posted November 14, 2020 They always seem to be severely lacking until those decals are applied. I'm with you - was nerve racking - you get one chance to do it right. Afterwards, I read that you can use soapy water, allowing them to move around until perfect. I used to do that with window tint so am amazed I had forgotten...good luck!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #46 Posted November 14, 2020 The tractor is as done as I can take it right now. I am waiting on the engine decal set, and the new head light lens. I wasn't sure about the placement of all the decals, and it seems no one wanted to post any pics, so I guessed. I still have a decal I am not sure of. It says; UNI DRIVE Pat. No. 2988185 I don't know where it goes. I also have a part that I am unsure of. There are 2 of these on the dash cowling to cushion the hood, but I have no idea where the 3rd. one goes. Any help? I would rate this paint job at a 4. You need to get 4 feet away, and it really looks good. A 4 is pretty good for me. The main thing I learned about painting a tractor is, let my nephew do it. It's what he does, he is set up for it, and does a great job. I have a 3 day job ahead of me trying to make my garage un-red again. 😕 The paint I used is, Rustoleum Self Etching Primer, Rustoleum Chinese Red Lacuer spray paint, Rustoleum gloss clear coat, Rustoleum Antique White on the wheels, and VHT High Temp Red on the motor. I did start the tractor this morning after giving the muffler another coat of VHT Silver, as per instructions on the can. After all the paint fumes, gas fumes, acetone fumes, and exhaust fumes, I am pretty sure there is not a bug left alive on me, in me, or in my garage. Applying decals is another one of my not so great talents. I should have applied the hood decals before I installed it, so it could lay down, but they turned out pretty good. After sitting over night there is a quarter size spot on the garage floor from the shut off valve on the fuel tank. I'm not going to risk making it worse by removing it, I'll just have to remember to turn off the valve. The very last part I installed was the serial number tag. I guess it's officially back together again. The mower deck will have to wait until next summer. 2 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scWHhauler 96 #47 Posted November 17, 2020 Don't have words super great looking C141 great job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #48 Posted November 18, 2020 WOW nice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #49 Posted November 18, 2020 Yesterday I got my decals for the motor. Fast service from Redo Your Horse. I put them on this morning and was going to move the tractor to storage but, It won't start. I pulled the line from the fuel pump, turned it over and nothing. I have a new fuel pump on order, but I am considering an electric fuel pump. That fuel has to come a loooonng ways.on this tractor. Anyone evr install an electric pump? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #50 Posted November 18, 2020 So I put some hose on the fuel pump outlet and sucked until I got fuel. Pitooee! Hooked my carb line back up, and it started right up. It's as if the pump works well when the motor is running, but just doesn't have enough ooomph when just cranking over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites