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Pullstart

One of a kind Wheel Horse Ride Away Senior

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Pullstart
29 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

I have to say, those are the BIGGEST anodes I've ever seen in an e-tank :omg:


They’re working!

 

 

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ineedanother

They’re working!

 

Love an e-tank! I wish I had known this when I was a kid wire brushing and busting my knuckles for sub-par results.

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Pullstart
9 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

They’re working!

 

Love an e-tank! I wish I had known this when I was a kid wire brushing and busting my knuckles for sub-par results.


I had an ah-ha moment last night.  It seemed to have settled down from when I started the video.  My ground Rod was submerged in the water.  When I took 2 gallons of solution out of the tank, it pulled the rod about 1/2” out of the water and the results were amazing!

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ineedanother
9 minutes ago, Pullstart said:


I had an ah-ha moment last night.  It seemed to have settled down from when I started the video.  My ground Rod was submerged in the water.  When I took 2 gallons of solution out of the tank, it pulled the rod about 1/2” out of the water and the results were amazing!

Makes sense. Current moving entirely through the part rather than directly between the anodes and diode. :thumbs:

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Handy Don
12 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

My ground Rod was submerged in the water

Anodes? The rod supporting the wheels?\

 

This is mine being busy on the cast iron main plate for an RM-366. Anodes are lengths of rebar wired together with 14ga solid wire and the green plastic mesh holds them against the sides.

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Pullstart

@Handy Don the rod supporting the wheels was under water.  
 

I added another anode this morning to clean the insides of the wheels.  One thing I learned about anodes in the water heater business, is they generally work best when they have a direct line of site to the part they are working with.  Any blockage (like a gas flue pipe in a water heater) is means for less coverage.  In high end commercial water heaters, a powered anode kit is available to basically never end the cycle unlike most aluminum or magnesium alloys that eventually wear away.  With multi flue tanks, there are generally more anodes for that purpose as part of the design.

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Pullstart

These wheels have been rotated 180 degrees in the water after sitting all night.  Lots of rust still evident on the insides, where the paint is all bubbled on the outsides.

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Handy Don
1 minute ago, Pullstart said:

the rod supporting the wheels was under water

Yep, that'd slow things down a bunch!

 

2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

clean the insides of the wheels

Yep, that line of sight business got me to make an extra piece of rebar that has a couple pieces of split plastic tubing as insulation that i can put down the center of a pipe or tube or put up against a particularly rusty spot.

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Pullstart

 

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Handy Don

In your case, I'd consider putting the negative clamp directly onto the rim of the wheels sticking out of the solution. Do a bit of wire brushing to make good contact and clamp the two wheels together with the clamp. The rod probably isn't making that great of contact with the inner surface of the hub.

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Pullstart
13 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

In your case, I'd consider putting the negative clamp directly onto the rim of the wheels sticking out of the solution. Do a bit of wire brushing to make good contact and clamp the two wheels together with the clamp. The rod probably isn't making that great of contact with the inner surface of the hub.


 

I thought of that, but it is riding on clean bearing surfaces alone.  I could likely thread the wheels through the spokes to dip them deeper too but this should work and it’s constantly mobile when needed.

 

 

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Pullstart

In the meantime, I’m giving the chassis a Greasy Pete job with Lucas Red n Tacky!  AND wiping the excess :lol:

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Edited by Pullstart
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Pullstart

This right front spindle has quite a bit of vertical travel and could use some shims.  I popped the roll pin out, gave it some juice and a few backed up whacks in either direction to shock the arm loose.  I’ll revisit this in a bit.

 

 

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Pullstart

I don’t want to low this apart to a full resto, but figured I should get work done while the wheels are work in progress.  
 

@Wild Bill in VA @stevebo @buckrancher @VinsRJ are the rear drums easy to pop off for inspection?  One is a little bit wobbly and I would like to tighten it up if possible.

 

 

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Wild Bill in VA

Kevin,

You live in Michigan so I'm pretty sure you know how rust works, if the outer nut comes off your home free. Check the bearings for wear.

Wild Bil in Richmond VA

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Pullstart
14 minutes ago, Wild Bill in VA said:

Kevin,

You live in Michigan so I'm pretty sure you know how rust works, if the outer nut comes off your home free. Check the bearings for wear.

Wild Bil in Richmond VA


Good deal!  I wasn’t sure if it was a taper lock or anything 

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Pullstart

One wheel complete!  Tomorrow if the sun’s out, I’ll degrease ‘em, rinse ‘em, dry ‘em, and start with the primer!

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953 nut
On 8/7/2022 at 10:48 AM, Pullstart said:

rear drums easy to pop off for inspection?

Check out a Ford Model A site, they can probably give you the inside scoop.

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Pullstart

I love this.  The Firestone stamp is awesome!  The little dude or whatever the sign is at the end is pretty cool too!

 

 

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Pullstart

#2 done.  I figured out that the wheels would fit in the lathe.  I was thinking of chucking them up and spinning them with some 80 grit to get some inside pitting smoothed more.  I also thought maybe not.  I also thought to prime and paint ‘em the way they are, then smear a light coat of bead sealer on the inside of the wheels and let it dry before mounting them.  
 

thoughts?

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Monstrosity
5 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

#2 done.  I figured out that the wheels would fit in the lathe.  I was thinking of chucking them up and spinning them with some 80 grit to get some inside pitting smoothed more.  I also thought maybe not.  I also thought to prime and paint ‘em the way they are, then smear a light coat of bead sealer on the inside of the wheels and let it dry before mounting them.  
 

thoughts?

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I wouldn't sand them down I'd wire wheel the bead and get that metal putty epoxy and then sand it down. I don't know how body filler would hold up..

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ineedanother
8 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

#2 done.  I figured out that the wheels would fit in the lathe.  I was thinking of chucking them up and spinning them with some 80 grit to get some inside pitting smoothed more.  I also thought maybe not.  I also thought to prime and paint ‘em the way they are, then smear a light coat of bead sealer on the inside of the wheels and let it dry before mounting them.  
 

thoughts?

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I wouldn't consider the lathe unless you can dial it down to maybe 30 rpm to see how they spin. Possibly out of round and definitely not balanced could spell a bad experience.

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ineedanother
54 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

#2 done.  I figured out that the wheels would fit in the lathe.  I was thinking of chucking them up and spinning them with some 80 grit to get some inside pitting smoothed more.  I also thought maybe not.  I also thought to prime and paint ‘em the way they are, then smear a light coat of bead sealer on the inside of the wheels and let it dry before mounting them.  
 

thoughts?

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I'm not sure how I would finish them and don't know how much work you put into them after the e-tank but man, you can definitely see what you have to work with. Nice :thumbs:

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WheelHorse79

I wonder if the "8" and "53" stamps mean August of 1953?  Might also help date the tractor's time of manufacture.

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Pullstart

Well, I just couldn’t leave well enough alone.  I took the air out of the tube from probably the late 70’s, and saw all the rust buildup.  I have to start fresh in the rear!

 

I believe I have 12 days by the way.  11 I guess.  We have our Heritage Days Parade and the Senior is scheduled to be representing!

 

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At least I can use the tire machine for this size!  Funny thing… “wide 5” race car wheels are the same bolt pattern as a Model A!

 

 

 

 

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